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well, im finally breaking down and doing a how to for this. first off ill say this is a very simple swap..i was skeptical at first but a big thanks to GREENSIERRA and Bumpers for answering my questions and helping me through this, there's really not much to this swap at all. sorry i didnt take a ton of pics of everything i did but ill try to answer as many questions as i can.

This swap is dyno proven on a 6.0 to be a +25rwhp mod..thats pretty substantial on a gas motor. i did this swap piecing parts together for anyone that doesnt buy a complete kit to be able to follow. to start, let me show u the differences between the TBSS/NNBS intake and stock NBS intake that u will need to accommodate for (go ahead and pull your intake tube and engine beauty cover/"vortec" stamped manifold cover):

This is an EVAP purge solenoid on an nbs intake. notice the grey clip in the center of the pic? the solenoid is right below it:



here the EVAP solenoid is in the TBSS/nnbs intake..notice its actually in the line?


there are a few options here, go to the dealer and pay $60 for a freakin evap line and then another $40 at the stealership for the EVAP, or make your own evap line and buy just the EVAP. i went to O'Reillys and got this evap nnbs evap purge solenoid for $13. everywhere else wanted $40!

NNBS EVAP Purge solenoid purchased:


to start, u want to remove the EVAP line, by doing this pull the grey clip and pop the line off your intake. the clip looks like this: u can see how u can slide it and pop it right off


next, i measured between the "hose stops" on the nnbs evap and cut my stock EVAP line to accommodate for the "inline conversion" of my evap and hose clamped it on like so:



now that we got that out of the way, heres our next manner of business. the PCV line on the passenger side. (dirty side iirc)

notice on the nbs intake, its located here behind the TB:


and here it is on the nnbs/tbss, in the intake tube:


so what do we do to solve this? drill a hole in your intake tube and RTV/silicone a heater hose fitting in it like below..but DO NOT PUT IT WHERE I DID...itll hit the throttle body. drill up above the line in the intake tube for it to clear


now that we have those 2 lines conquered, lets swap our intakes!

-first, ull wanna unplug the hose that runs from the brake booster to behind the intake manifold. just undo the hose clamp with pliers and slide it off (sorry, no pics but its self explanatory when u see it.)

-next, ull see a connector with a blue band around it on top of the intake mani. thats your knock sensor connector. unplug it and move it to the side

-then unplug your PCV (clean side) hose that runs off the center of the intake mani to the driver side by popping it off the valve cover and the intake

-on the top, very back of the intake mani, ull see your map sensor (its the only other thing plugged in), unplug it and move to the next step

-there's a plate with 3 bolts in it that the large wire loom with all your wires from your wiring harness come through on the top of the intake as well, unbolt it

now that all that's done, lets unplug the fuel injectors. to do so, locate your fuel injectors under your fuel rail. there are 8 of them. notice a little grey clip on them? they look like this:


grab that clip and slide it up, ull feel it click (dont pull it all the way off, it just slides up a hair.) then u see where there's 3 sections at the top? fat one in the middle and skinny on the sides? pinch the fat part hard and slide up and itll unclip right off the fuel injectors. repeat 8 times.

now for the part i hated, the fuel line. look on the rear/driver side part of the fuel rail and ull see this:


pop that little clip off that connects the braided line to hard line, just pop the braided side off and slide towards u and itll come right off.

keep in mind that this fuel line has pressure, if u pop the braided line off without depressurizing the rail, ull get soaked in gas. locate the valve stem looking piece on the passenger side of the rail, unscrew the cap and stick a flat head screwdriver down to squirt some of the gas out of the rail to relieve some pressure (best method i found, not the most perfect way)

this is that part i hated, removing the braided line. here is the inside of the line:


notice the 4 prongs on the inside? mine are semi-flat bc the way i took the line off is with 2 tiny flathead screwdrivers. i mashed 2 of the prongs down and wiggled the line and kept mashing on all the prongs 2 at a time until the line popped off. i KNOW there has to be a better way bc mine was a pain in the ass, but it is what it is.

now, lets pull the intake off! u can leave your fuel rail on or pull it off, choice is yours. on the bottom of the intake manifold are a bunch of 8mm bolts that look like this: (the connector u see with the blue bands is the knock sensor connector mentioned earlier)


once youre done with that, pull the intake off and this is what ull see:


see the black round things on the top of the motor? pop those up and look in there, thats your knock sensors. if they look clean, leave them be. if they look like rusted ass, take some needle nose pliers and pop the connector off and change the sensors. when u put the black covers back on, i RTV/siliconed around them so no moisture can get in.

-now that thats done, throw your TBSS/NNBS intake on and tighten it down! time to reconnect things! go ahead and either install your new intake gasket or reuse your old intake gasket (not recommended)

-the next problem you are going to encounter is the fuel rail on the nbs trucks is shorter than that on the tbss/nnbs intake mani. AKA, youre going to have to modify. some weld on AN fittings and use pushlock hose, others like me, cut and weld. notice the 2.5" of added steel on either side:


be sure to know the fuel rail is stainless steel, i was told aluminum which is wrong

now that we got away from that problem, on to the next one. the pockets the fuel rail bolts fit through are much higher than the tbss intake and too narrow. how much different are they u may ask?


the bolt on the left is stock, the one on the right is the one u will need to buy. the little sleeve on the far right is what i dropped in my intake port and crushed a piston with on my 5.3 and the reason i got a 6.0 :nono: u do not need that sleeve.

here is how much i had to cut off of my "rail pockets"..as u can see i needed to cut a hair more:


then drill out a hole in the pocket for your new bolts to go through and tighten your fuel rail down.

go ahead and reconnect your fuel line and injectors. we're done there!

reconnect your knock sensor plug, driver side PCV line, and brake booster vaccuum line and now to the map sensor. the TBSS/NNBS map sensor is different and will not plug into nbs harness so i reused my stock map sensor. seeing as i had a tbss map sensor handy, i modified my stock map sensor with the tbss o ring like so (green is off the tbss intake mani):


then i RTV/siliconed it down for insurance, u dont want a vaccuum leak. dont cake it, a thin layer will do the trick. u also have to break one on the 4 tabs off the sensor for it to fit, ull notice one of the 4 tabs is missing in this pic:


remember the map sensor was on the back of the nbs intake mani? well now its on the front. so trim some tape out of the wire loom and extended the map sensor connector like so:


retape it back up and you have everything done except, the throttle body! this is the most expensive part if u choose to run a TB specific for your new intake. if u notice the nbs intake has 3 bolts for a TB and the nnbs/TBSS intake is 4 bolts. u have some options here. to run your stock 76mm TB, u will need to buy an adapter plate. thats the cheapest route. if youre like me and cant justify a big ass expensive intake and keeping a stock TB, get u a 90mm LS7 TB or run an nnbs TB. for you to be able to run a different throttle body (the LS7 or nnbs TB) u will need to purchase a DR X harness from torquerushperformance.com. its ~$240 and looks like this:


plug your dr x harness up, install your intake tube and plug up your PCV line into your intake tube and youre done! here's what mine looks like with my custom dr x harness bracket:



ALSO: u remember under your stock nbs TB there was a coolant line running through it? u will need to buy a throttle body coolant bypass kit for like $8 off ebay or get a double sided nipple and 2 hose clamps to bypass that line, your new TB wont have the hook ups for it.

CONGRATS!! youre done!

if i missed anything, please let me know! any questions and ill be glad to help!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool write up! any comment on performance?
Well i blew my 5.3 up so i did a 6.0 swap and a few other things so i wouldnt be able to pin point just the intake gain





NICE dude! thanks for this.
No problem man..thanks for reminding me to do this lol im sure u could get an nnbs fuel rail and use the nbs injectors but im not sure of that. U could use the nbs fuel rail and connect the nnbs crossover tube to it to clear the intake mani..again im not 100% on that
 

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Hmm I want to do this now lol. But this fuel rail thing has me stumped. Gotta look into the nnbs rails and see if those clear.
 

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Hmm I want to do this now lol. But this fuel rail thing has me stumped. Gotta look into the nnbs rails and see if those clear.
Some ppl weld these -6 AN fittings on and use push lock hose. Just make sure u get stainless steel fittings and not aluminum.

 

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so will a tbss or nnbs fuel rail swap over? or do you have to extend the nbs fuel rail?
 

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so will a tbss or nnbs fuel rail swap over? or do you have to extend the nbs fuel rail?
I know for a fact the plug ins for tbss and nnbs injectors will not match up to the nbs harness. For that reason I would assume the injector rail would not work with nbs injectors BUT I have not tried it. I will ask someone for u about that
 

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told you the swap is easy. lol
it is also worth the time and money. My mid and upper rpms defanitly felt alot stronger without sacrificing bottom end
 

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Any word yet? I'm curious to try it that route if I can pick one up soon

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Any word yet? I'm curious to try it that route if I can pick one up soon

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I asked Austin (alwayssomethin) and he said u can buy injector adapters to make the nnbs injectors work with your stock harness. Did a little research and now I'm kicking myself in the ass for not doing this. Make sure this is the right kit for you this is just a quick search but try this out: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=121014578473&index=3&nav=SEARCH&nid=04999470123

Your stock injectors aren't compatible with the nnbs rail I was also told unless u get spacers
 

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I know when things go off ebay the link won't be any good so if that happens this is what I found for harness adapters:
 

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They make a tool to disconnect the fuel lines so you don't have to pry screw drivers down in it :yuno:
 

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Well nnbs and tbss injectors are the same right? I'm buying a TBS complete intake manifold so it has intake fuel rails and injectors for $250 shipped

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They make a tool to disconnect the fuel lines so you don't have to pry screw drivers down in it :yuno:
I was drinking lol I know there's a tool for it but I was already standing inside the engine bay and didn't wanna go to town to get one
 

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Well nnbs and tbss injectors are the same right? I'm buying a TBS complete intake manifold so it has intake fuel rails and injectors for $250 shipped

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I'm 90% sure they are..u have an ls1 type and the tbss will be ls2 type so as long as the harness adapts the two then you're good to go iirc. I just cut and welded my fuel rail to save $$$ for 60 pounders one day
 

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I'm 90% sure they are..u have an ls1 type and the tbss will be ls2 type so as long as the harness adapts the two then you're good to go iirc. I just cut and welded my fuel rail to save $$$ for 60 pounders one day
Sweet I'm gonna order the harness :)

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Sweet I'm gonna order the harness :)

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Awesome bro..be sure u get the evap Line from the seller as well and please leave feedback on here for others! Add any info u feel I left out or anything u found an easier way to do and if this thread helped you at all!
 

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Nice writeup,mines a little different for 99-02,havent tryed yet

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