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Toggle switch to power supply wire coming out of fuel pump relay give constant pressure to hour pressure regulator at the flip of a switch ...its what I've done to mine without an issue
 

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I need a 100% positive that my odometer will still work. 99 suburban 5.7 w/4L60. Live in MA and it would be a massive problem with insurance,inspections and the registry here.
 

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Mmm Sandwich
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I need a 100% positive that my odometer will still work. 99 suburban 5.7 w/4L60. Live in MA and it would be a massive problem with insurance,inspections and the registry here.
Think you would have more issues with carb and evap issues if you are trying to pass inspection
 

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Think you would have more issues with carb and evap issues if you are trying to pass inspection
It dosn't have to pass emissions it's the mileage that's the problem. Real sticklers about it. Plus it's got a digital odometer. It'll get branded with an "Odometer Discrepancy" on the title. Already happened with one car when the registry did a typo on the mileage.
 

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Mmm Sandwich
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Not taking about emissions. Talking about visual inspection of all the shit missing. Plus odometer discrepancy may not make a difference after a certain amount of years. I know in Wisconsin it doesn't.

Plus your odometer is ran off the vss input so why would it not work if your speedo worked? Odometer doesn't work off magic.
 

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94shortie
I have followed your instructions on this conversion. My 95 tahoe is still stuck in limp mode. I am ahaving issues with the wiring. From what i have gathered the white wire goes to the tack and the purple goes to the batt side correct? The white wire, is that the one that is in that 4 plug on the dizz?or is it from the other plug? The only sensor you hooked up was the tps sensor correct? Would a bad wheel speed sensor cause it to stay in limp mode?
I just found out today run the old distributor from the tbi setup
 

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Getting ready to swap a 2008 Chevy Silverado with 5.3 to a carburetor 350 was wondering what I would need to change
 
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