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Hello I know this is a late post, but this is a great sticky- one quick question is there no need to remove the bed to drop the truck?- thanks Cole
 

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I was always told to keep the bed on when installing mini notches, as the bed supports the frame and prevents it from flexing or bending.

I think it'd take more time taking the bed off and on, than putting on the flip kit.
 

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I was always told to keep the bed on when installing mini notches, as the bed supports the frame and prevents it from flexing or bending.

I think it'd take more time taking the bed off and on, than putting on the flip kit.
Thanks BoltspeedMen- that is a great help
 

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Great write up ! I will refer to it when I do mine... Quick question

I have 2000 Sierra an I want to go 5/7 what would you say is the best way to go about this ? I did springs an spindles on my last truck 94' ecsb an it worked out perfect for me idk if lca would be better for my 00' sierra ??

Also do I need to do anything after I install the drop ? Like adjust the drive shaft angle or anything of that sort ?
 

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Narc
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If you are looking for, "what drop should I go with" this is not the thread for you, check out xlcooplx's sticky http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74532
Great write up ! I will refer to it when I do mine... Quick question

I have 2000 Sierra an I want to go 5/7 what would you say is the best way to go about this ? I did springs an spindles on my last truck 94' ecsb an it worked out perfect for me idk if lca would be better for my 00' sierra ??

Also do I need to do anything after I install the drop ? Like adjust the drive shaft angle or anything of that sort ?
:read:
 

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Great write up ! I will refer to it when I do mine... Quick question

I have 2000 Sierra an I want to go 5/7 what would you say is the best way to go about this ? I did springs an spindles on my last truck 94' ecsb an it worked out perfect for me idk if lca would be better for my 00' sierra ??

Also do I need to do anything after I install the drop ? Like adjust the drive shaft angle or anything of that sort ?
3" Springs and McGaughy's 16+ spindles are still the best route. Or Coilovers and spindles.

DJM is the only ones who make drop LCA or UCA. Not worth the price tag unless your going lower than 6" in the front.

Rear is still just flip kit, and any 2" drop shackle set on the 1" hole to get 7" of rear drop.

If its a Ext. you'll need a hanger bearing kit, due to the two piece drive shaft.

You'll need an alignment as soon you get the drop done, may even need offset bushing or cam plates to get camber back into specs, but at 5" it should be close.

And shocks.
 

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Awesome thanks... It's a rcsb will I need to realign the drive shaft angle on it with a 5/7?
No, any name brand flip kit are already offset for the pinion angle change of a 6" drop. The extra inch wouldn't affect anything.
 

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Bumble Bee
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I'll be showing you how to do a flip kit for the rear. I'm afraid I have no advice if you are looking for a hanger install.

Lift the back of your truck and put some jack stands under the rear of the frame. I was using a lift but the jack stands should go where my lift is at, like so.....
thedrop025.jpg


We want the back axle to hang like the front did. I recommend using two jacks on either side of the dif, but if you must use one on the dif.
thedrop047.jpg


Go ahead and take them wheels off. Put a little pressure on the rear axle with your jacks. Remove your shocks (the easiest thing you are about to do) With the shocks gone go ahead and remove the stock U-bolts and plates off both sides.
thedrop024.jpg
The four nuts you see on the bottom are what you are taking off here. Should look like this with them out the way
thedrop038.jpg
and this piece won't be needed with your new U-bolts.
thedrop039.jpg


Time for the leaf springs to exit. I recommend starting on the passenger side of the truck, it is the easier of the two. This way you can get into the groove of what needs to be done. Go ahead and remove the bottom bolt of your shackle. For those of you with hitches you will probably have to remove your hitch (sorry).
thedrop022.jpg


Now go to the front of the leaf (hanger) Remove the bolt. It's gonna be tight but you should be able to slip an open wrench on the backside, and loosen the nut on the outside.
thedrop040.jpg


The bolt is a little tricky coming out, but even with my stock exhaust I could get it out fairly easy. Go ahead and lift the leaf (its a little heavy) and get it on outta there.

I would go ahead and do the c-notch now. Lower the axle a bit on the passenger side, just to give yourself a little work room. You will notice that your c-notch's are not the same, the part that faces the front curves two different ways, make sure you get the one that is going to fit flush. When you got the right one hold it to where it is going to be ( I eye balled it, dont know if there is a proper way of doing this), the bottom should be flush with the frame.....
thedrop028.jpg


Take a sharpie or a piece of chalk and outline the outside of the C

thedrop029.jpg


Edit: Before cutting into the frame, you should drill two holes in the upper corners to avoid straight edges, this makes the frame have a weak point that may possibly crack and spread. Drill two holes here. Don't do what I did :D
thedrop029-1.jpg

Props to on1wheel06, props to BOO5STED for the edited pic, didn't feel like doing another one of those :D

Time to get hackin. I found a recipricating saw (sawzall) with a metal blade cut through the frame like butter. Remember you traced the outside of the C, so stick to the inside of your mark. You should easily be able to cut the bump stop "support" I guess is what it was, you'll see.
thedrop030.jpg


Ain't gotta be pretty just has to work :crazy: You might have to trim a bit to get everything to fit right. Once you have it trimmed out and sitting where it needs to go, line it up and mark your holes.

thedrop030.jpg


Time for suck. I used a three step bit system, start with a small one, work your way to a big, you can use however many you want.
thedrop033.jpg
thedrop031.jpg


Once your holes are drilled go ahead and bolt that c-notch on up. I suggest a cross pattern when tightening them (don't tighten all the bolts up on just one side first) Use your head a bit, make sure your c-notch is flush against the frame. I put the bolts on the outside, nuts on the inside for looks sake.
thedrop032.jpg


Side note: The c-notch in the pictures is from DJM, Bell-Tech and other companies have a little beefier c-notch, with bolts on the bottom side as well. Same principle, just drill holes for the bolts on the bottom.

Next you can go ahead and put on the axle bracket.
thedrop035.jpg


Make sure you line up the nipple with the hole
thedrop045.jpg


You will notice a brake line in your way, its metal, just bend it out the way a little, a LITTLE.
thedrop046.jpg


Don't tighten the nuts down all the way, actually if you only tighten them about half way it'll be good, you will be adjusting your pinion angle later.

If you have two jacks, you can go ahead and reassemble the passenger side, if you are working with one jack on the rear dif, go ahead and start on the drivers side.

For those of you installing the leaf on the passenger side. Lift up on the jack on the passenger side and bring the axle up a good bit, higher than it was originally :). I found it easy to re-install the front first
Awesome write up
 

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I'm only doing a 3 1/4: drop on my 2015 RCSB 4x4 (remove block + 2" shackles). Does anyone make a shorter bump stop that mounts to the OEM bump stop bracket?

Thanks
 
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