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this weekend i installed my lunati voodoo cam with all intentions of making a "how-to" for anyone wanting to get a cam, after i did some research i found the link thats posted below and after all the hard work jMx went through making this i felt it wrong to try and top this (i know i couldnt) so im posting this for anyone wanting to...

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

READ FIRST:

-On part 2 of the link where he uses a JDM lifter tool to hold the lifters up, i used 5/16" oak dowel rods cut to 22" each and it worked perfect and costs $3 at home depot or lowes...that $3 of insurance keeps you from pulling the heads or possibly motor if a lifter falls, DONT BE STUPID once the cam is out, the lifters are held in solely by their trays, they slip and fall and youre done. buy the dowel rods, not pen magnets. just spin the cam 2 or 3 times to "lock" the lifters in the trays and put the dowel rods in the oil journals on the upper left and right of the cam itself. also u can use metal dowel rods but wood is preferred bc the oil journals are D shaped and the metal ones will need to be filed down on one side or they wont fit...if youre worried about the wood breaking in the motor dont, unless you get to acting like an idiot they will not break.

-use air tools for removing the bolts on the rockers, coil packs, valve covers, crank bolt etc..work smarter not harder. if u dont have air tools, goodluck with the crank bolt, ull have to lock the flywheel to keep the motor from turning. also the coil packs are on a rail held on by 5 10mm bolts, could be 8 idr but they dont have to be taken off individually, the big plug in the middle is also the only plug needed to be unplugged, not the individual ones.

-buy a 1" longer crank bolt for reinstalling the balancer/crank pulley, i didnt and had to oil that fucker up and use a BFH (big fucking hammer) to gently tap it back on, the stock bolt isnt long enough to grab on reinstall and also makes removing the pulley more time consuming..also that bolt is 24mm which isnt mentioned in the article

-use copper high temp RTV for reinstalling the timing cover, be generous it doesnt need much. also there are 10 10mm bolts holding it, the 2 u probably wont find are on the bottom and are a bitch to get to as well as to reinstall, YES u DO need them, take your time and put them back like they were unless u want oil to piss out the front of your motor.

-when pulling your rocker arms and push rods, set them on a clean surface and LABEL them and put them back EXACTLY where they came from.

-when removing the cam, support it with 2 hands and try to keep it perfectly level and rotate as u pull...think about what its doing, each lobe is trying to grab on the 4 journals as its coming out. just support it and wiggle, it will come..same goes for reinstalling, as youre pushing u can feel how it goes in if u try keeping it supported.

-oil the fuck out of the cam, motor oil and assembly lube is what i used, motor oil alone will do it but i went above and beyond just for insurance. DONT spare, LUBE that fucker up!! have it soaking in oil while youre tearing the motor down

when removing the cam gear bolts and cam retainer bolts, take one bolt off and set it to the side...do one at a time. if it falls, its going in your oil pan.

-dont cheap out and reuse stock water pump gaskets. theyre $20, buy some new ones

-valve covers dont need to be tightened down with extreme force, snug them with a ratchet and theyll seal right up.

-the a/c condenser doesnt need to be removed, with the water pump, fans, and radiator out, u have plenty of room to get the cam in and out. loosening it will also cause u to risk pinching one of the hard lines causing freon leak=hot a/c...not cool.

-ALIGN the cam gear to the crank gear with the little dots BEFORE taking the cam gear off, makes reinstall so much easier, take your time on this, u cant even be a tooth off on timing so MAKE SURE its PERFECT. a little tip to help reinstall is if u get the cam gear back on and its a tooth off, just lower the cam gear with chain on to where its dangling off the crank gear and slightly adjust...it may take time but it beats the fuck outta finding out its off when u get it all back together.

-once the gears and timing chain are on and secured, rotate the engine 2-3 times with a BFPB (big fucking pull bar) and then recheck your timing.

-monitor oil pressure as well as temp like a hawk for a good while, the radiator will have air in it from being removed and this will cause the motor to run hot for awhile. if it gets too hot, cut it off, let it cool, then drive it to let the water pump do its job. if the oil pressure drops suddenly while youre taking vids/pics/grabbing a victory beer, youre fucked.

-DONT assume u know what cam u want and go ordering it online, call comp or lunati or a popular named distributor and discuss with a tech what youre trying to do and let them suggest what u should go with.

-you CAN do this!! if u can work a wrench and read fucking instructions, set aside a saturday and go for it!! it took me 5 full hours with a hungover buddy (we havent done my springs yet) taking my time and plenty of breaks. its NOT a race, just take your time!!



ANY input or advise is welcome, thanks for reading!! here are also 2 reference videos:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=199YYgcDYeI[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQLhIVaOOQQ&feature=relmfu[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good write up. How's it sound?
i just got a mild cam but it sounds great, needs a tune BAD. after it gets warm u have to pepper the throttle at stop signs or itll shut off :yuno:
 

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Get a crank pulley install tool to put the pulley back on, super easy and remember that the crank bolt is torque to yield so you cannot reuse it. Also I had no trouble breaking that bolt loose with a 24 mm socket and a breaker bar, once it pops loose you can un-thread it with your hands.

The best way I've found to keep the pulley from spinning is double wrapping an old serpentine belt around the pulley and then one loop around the idler pulley, that way when you push on the pulley it tightens the tension on the belt and holds the pulley in place. Hard to explain but it works.
 

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Get a crank pulley install tool to put the pulley back on, super easy and remember that the crank bolt is torque to yield so you cannot reuse it. Also I had no trouble breaking that bolt loose with a 24 mm socket and a breaker bar, once it pops loose you can un-thread it with your hands.

The best way I've found to keep the pulley from spinning is double wrapping an old serpentine belt around the pulley and then one loop around the idler pulley, that way when you push on the pulley it tightens the tension on the belt and holds the pulley in place. Hard to explain but it works.
I see what you're saying..I reused my bolt and tightened to 240 with an impact
 

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Did you just get cam valve springs an push rods. Did you do anything to your heads
valve springs and pushrods are a must for larger cams..the stock behive springs can take alot but its recommended to upgrade for a reason. i still have stock heads though they arent milled or anything

Very nice write up hope to do this soon! Post some sound clips up after you get a tune. I can't wait to get her done!
i would but my phone doesnt have good sound quality..the link i posted i read it over and over before the install and wrote down all the torque specs so when i was buttoning the motor back up it was all right in front of me..go for it man!
 

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Anyone know what the stock spring are "capable" of lift wise? What are they rated at?
Im running stock on my Cam at the moment and they're holding up great
 

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Anyone know what the stock spring are "capable" of lift wise? What are they rated at?
You can get a set of LS9 springs rated for .580 lift for $69.95:

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=L230045297&Store_Code=LPE&Category_Code=C159

Stock springs I wouldn't push past .500 honestly and that is dependent on rpm. You could shim them to where they're close to coil bind for a little more lift but I wouldn't do it with springs being so cheap. You don't want to chance grenading the engine to save a few bucks. Hardened push rods are about $100, I've bent a stock one easily and I'll never run them again.... especially since I like shifting at 6500 too much.
 

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I just learned a lot.. lol Deff getting a cam now!
thats what this thread is all about :shake: if anyone has any useful info to add like strokerace then feel free
 

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A few more tips/tricks
For crank bolt install and removal, I got a 3' length of steel chain and 2 s hooks. Place the s hook and chain on the balancer, and wrap the other end around the lower a arm. Abus will keep the crank from rotating as you remove the bolt.

If you plan on shifting over 6500 rpm or you have 150000+ miles get the ls2 timing chain. It's stornger. I was shifting my 6.0 at 6900rpm and it held up great.

Put a towel over the oil pan when you remove the timing cover. If any small bolts drop they will fall on the towel instead of the oil pan. And also keeps crud from falling in as well.

For valve springs, remember that they are what's holding the valves up. When you go to remove them, either get an air compressor fitting for the spark plug threads and fill the cylinders with about 75-80 psi. Or, whit I do is get some 5-16 rope, feed the rope through the spark plug hole, then rotate the crank to rsx for that piston. When you remove the spring the valve will rest on the rope.

Will also need new coolant, timing cover gasket, and timing cover seal. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A few more tips/tricks
For crank bolt install and removal, I got a 3' length of steel chain and 2 s hooks. Place the s hook and chain on the balancer, and wrap the other end around the lower a arm. Abus will keep the crank from rotating as you remove the bolt.

If you plan on shifting over 6500 rpm or you have 150000+ miles get the ls2 timing chain. It's stornger. I was shifting my 6.0 at 6900rpm and it held up great.

Put a towel over the oil pan when you remove the timing cover. If any small bolts drop they will fall on the towel instead of the oil pan. And also keeps crud from falling in as well.

For valve springs, remember that they are what's holding the valves up. When you go to remove them, either get an air compressor fitting for the spark plug threads and fill the cylinders with about 75-80 psi. Or, whit I do is get some 5-16 rope, feed the rope through the spark plug hole, then rotate the crank to rsx for that piston. When you remove the spring the valve will rest on the rope.

Will also need new coolant, timing cover gasket, and timing cover seal. Hope this helps.
great addition, yeah the air fitting is a must unless u feel like pulling the heads...i read on ls1tech a guy doing a spring swap in his GTO and valve fell and he was able to rotate the crank and the valve fed itself back up from the piston being fully depressed, how lucky can u get? and for coolant, get Dextron non diluted (not 50/50), ull just need one and top it off with water. i also put a towel below my oil pump, DNW to fish oil pan with pen magnet
 

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I have a cheapo ebay one. Cost about 20 bucks. Can only do one spring at a time and its kinda a PITA to get the locks back in place but it works.
 

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u can also rent one from a local parts store and return it when done for a full refund. u can also get the cylinder air tool from there also
 

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as for your statement of the radiator having air bubbles, best cure for that is to take the vent line off the top of the motor (by the throttle body) and fill the coolant jug with water till you have water coming out in a steady stream. close the fitting off and fill the rest of the way. ive never had an issue with air pockets after a cam swap.

as for the valve springs take a 15mm deep drive socket and tap the keeper plates on each valve to keep the oil from causing the locks to stick and it trying to push the valve open as you tighten it down.

dowel rods are a great choice with any cam swap. put a slight point on the tip vs just having a flat surface.

10mm ratchet wrench works great for the the 2 10mm bolts at the bottom of the timing cover (goes through the oil pan into timing cover) also works well for that pita bolt that is hidden by the a/c bracket.

you can take your powersteering pump/alt bracket and just lay it over onto the drivers side (leave 1 bolt in at the very bottom of the bracket) you wont have any issues with it being in the way.

taking the crank pulley off, the tool may or not not fit the snout of the crank, i take a bolt that is small enough to fit inside the crank OD to push against vs the actual crank snout
 
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