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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: Changed the position of the engine to body ground. Placed pics in my post on page 3.

Not sure if this is already on the site. I searched, but no luck. Mods, feel free to sticky or move this thread if it needs to be in the tech forum. I also didn't resize the pics so the details would be clear (be careful 56k).

The "big 3" upgrade is a common mod done by owners. It involves upgrading the size and quality of wire for the battery and alternator. This will provide better current flow which can affect many aspects of your vehicle (i.e. less voltage drop, no dimming lights, even better mileage, etc...).

There has been some debate on whether or not to fuse the lead from the battery to the alternator. I chose to have the extra insurance and fused it with a 200amp waterproof ANL fuse.

For parts, I ordered my supplies from knukonceptz.com. Good quality and value for the price. Most go with 1/0 gauge wire. You could even use welding cable.

I followed the paths of the factory cable and finished everything off with wire loom.

On the (-) side:
Battery to chassis
Battery to block

On the (+) side:
Battery to alternator

On with the pics:

Le parts
2007Sierra031.jpg


Test fitting the battery terminals
2007Sierra034.jpg


For the battery to frame lead, I used a common ground bolt almost directly below the battery.
2007Sierra040.jpg


Here's a shot of the bolt looking from underneath the truck.
2007Sierra041.jpg


The ground bolt on the block is hard to see. Removing the plastic splash guard just under and behind the front of the truck will help immensely.
2007Sierra046.jpg


Making progress.
2007Sierra044.jpg


Some finished pics:
2007Sierra048.jpg


2007Sierra047.jpg


2007Sierra043.jpg


2007Sierra049.jpg


2007Sierra050.jpg


2007Sierra051.jpg


Please feel free to ask any questions or add comments. Forklift or Rattron, let me know what you think.
:endofshow
 

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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
ive been wanting to do this for a while, how many feet of each wire did you end up using to do it all?
I ordered 10ft of the ground cable and 7ft of power cable. I used about 7ft of the ground and 3-4ft of the power cable.

Take a piece of rope or string and route it where you want the cable to go. Then you can measure it to get an accurate length. Be sure to give yourself a cushion. You don't want to run out of wire if you have to recrimp!
 

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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
what size split loom did you use??
I used 3/4" split loom. The 1/0 cable from knukonceptz is so large, it is almost rated as 2/0. I think the diameter is between 5/8" and just under 3/4". The loom fit perfect around the wire with just enough wiggle room.
 

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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everybody. Just wanted to give my contribution to the site. :D
 

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Fresno State Bulldog
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5,708 Posts
Quick question.....I know some people do it differently...

Others
pos ---> alt
neg ---> chassis
block ---> firewall

Yours
pos ---> alt
neg ---> chassis
neg ---> block

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to either way of doing it?
 

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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Quick question.....I know some people do it differently...

Others
pos ---> alt
neg ---> chassis
block ---> firewall

Yours
pos ---> alt
neg ---> chassis
neg ---> block

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to either way of doing it?
To be honest, I don't really know. I guess grounding the block to body would include the body panels/ sheet metal of the truck. If you think about it, the body touches the frame in so many places, it may be a redundant ground.

Looking at the stock wiring, the larger (-) battery lead only goes to the block and the (+) goes to the alternator and to the fuse block. I'm guessing you want the battery to have the best ground possible and you want to negate anything that could cause electrical interferance. Hence, bat to block and chassis.

That is a good question. Maybe Forklift or Ratronn can weigh in on that.:think:
 

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Fresno State Bulldog
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5,708 Posts
To be honest, I don't really know. I guess grounding the block to body would include the body panels/ sheet metal of the truck. If you think about it, the body touches the frame in so many places, it may be a redundant ground.

Looking at the stock wiring, the larger (-) battery lead only goes to the block and the (+) goes to the alternator and to the fuse block. I'm guessing you want the battery to have the best ground possible and you want to negate anything that could cause electrical interferance. Hence, bat to block and chassis.

That is a good question. Maybe Forklift or Ratronn can weigh in on that.:think:

Yeah, I'm not tryin to rag on what you did....just would like some clarification :D Because until this thread, I was going to do it the other way :D
 

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GMFS Member
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Discussion Starter #14
No worries. I'm curious about it too.:shake:

Let me know what you find out.
 

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Ballin' on a Budget
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2,113 Posts
what is the reasoning behind fusing the link between the batt and alt? Is the stock link fused?
 

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Registered
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3,382 Posts
Looks good. I lik ethe fuse on the positve to alt post, I alwasy defend that fuse and everyone else says no to it. Better safe than sorry for me. I like your bettery terminals. How much did they run? What kind of clamping device for terminal and cable?

The only thing i added to my big 3 was the body to frame ground under the drivers side door. Its good size for the factory but why not upgrade it also.
 

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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Looks good. I lik ethe fuse on the positve to alt post, I alwasy defend that fuse and everyone else says no to it. Better safe than sorry for me. I like your bettery terminals. How much did they run? What kind of clamping device for terminal and cable?

The only thing i added to my big 3 was the body to frame ground under the drivers side door. Its good size for the factory but why not upgrade it also.
Got any pics of that body to frame ground? I may do that since I have some extra wire.

I got all the supplies from www.knukonceptz.com. Here's the terminal:


(click for larger picture) **NEW** KonFused Negative Battery Terminal
Item #: KBT-30N
Category: Battery Terminals
Weight: 0.6 lbs
Price: $18.99
In Stock: Yes

As you can see, they weren't the cheapest things. The quality is outstanding, IMO.

It uses a compression fitting to hold the wire. I was skeptical at first, but am very satisfied with the connection.
 

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GMFS Member
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845 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Looks pretty much as factory as you can! LOL the best part is the electrical tape... cause its JUST like the factory does it!!! HAHHAHA
Thanks. That was the idea behind it. I kinda dig the "factory/ stealth" look.
 
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