[Monte406SS]

Per some good advice on another board, I planned on having my local shop replace my stock u joints with spicers, but they do not carry them and are closed on the weekends which is the only time I can go. I have a 2000 Silverao Reg Cab, long bed 4x4 with 93k miles, clunk going from reverse to drive, etc.

So I plan on chaging them myself and already have a torch to burn out the nylon. My question is what is the correct u joint for my application? I do no offroad with it, and want to be sure I am ordering the correct one (for example, are the front and rear u joints on the rear driveshaft the same part number?)

Here is some of the Precision u joints I was looking at, just not sure which ones to order. I had planned on only doing the rear joints for now.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking the 254s.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/2000/Make/CHEVROLET/Model/SILVERADO-1500/Part-Type/U-Joints/Brand/Precision-Universal-Joint/Drivetrain/4WD/Engine-Size/5-3L-323/?keyword=u joints

 

[wichevrolet]

I just did mine on my 1998 and ended up getting the wrong parts twice because there were so many choices for my truck. I would highly recomend taking the u joints out and bringing them to the parts store to be sure you get the right parts.

 

[wichevrolet]

I would also suggest you get a greasable u joint the one you have in the link is sealed and not greaseable.

 

[Monte406SS]

That is what I was afraid of, seems like so many choices and this is the first time I am replacing a u joint, don't want to mess things up.
How did you know it was the wrong part, just would not fit (cap diameter was too large or small?)

Thanks.

 

[slanteye_z]

ill give one piece of advice to this. when you order them order an extra. spicer makes awesome shit

 

[Monte406SS]

ill give one piece of advice to this. when you order them order an extra. spicer makes awesome shit

Meaning the Precision will break shortly afterward??

I would order the spicer, but do not know which one to get, and where to get them.

 

[Monte406SS]

I decided to go with Neapco u joints. Just not sure if I need their strap/bolt kit. May pick them up just in case, can always return them.

 

[davenorr84]

just use what the people installing them are using.. just make sure they are greaseable and you should be good to go

 

[Hit Man X]

Greaseable are weaker...

 

[Undertattood]

Greaseable are weaker...

x2

I ended up using neapco's as well, but only cuz the closest spicer distributer was in another state. They come with a lifetime warranty tho, so I'm not worried about it. ... when i planned to do mine, after i crawled underneath the bitch and hand checked both rear joints, i SWORE i only needed to replace one. after i had the driveshaft out and on the table, i could tell i needed both. do yourself a favore' and buy both, just in case. you could always return one if you don't need it.

 

[Hit Man X]

Neapco is a brand that sticks in my head that I used before. If it helps.

 

[davenorr84]

how are greaseable weaker? all it has is a zerk fitting for lube..

 

[Hit Man X]

how are greaseable weaker? all it has is a zerk fitting for lube..

And where do you think the grease goes? :think:

 

[davenorr84]

And where do you think the grease goes? :think:

um to the bearings.. you think non-greaseable doesnt have grease?

99% of every car/truck on the street can benefit from longevity keeping the U-joints lubed.. if you're talking about the tiny channels the grease goes through making the U-joint weaker, if that being too weak is a problem because of too much tq/hp.. you wont be driving it much anyway

 

[Monte406SS]

I had the driveshaft out today and did them. They were the originals and a pain in the @ss to get out. Tried using a C-clamp to get them in, but could not get it tight enough to get the second clip in. Rented a ball joint press and it took 30 seconds to get it finished. Another lesson that they is always the right tool for the job. Took it out for a short ride, did not feel any clunking like before, so hopefully that is all it was.

 

[Hit Man X]

um to the bearings.. you think non-greaseable doesnt have grease?

99% of every car/truck on the street can benefit from longevity keeping the U-joints lubed.. if you're talking about the tiny channels the grease goes through making the U-joint weaker, if that being too weak is a problem because of too much tq/hp.. you wont be driving it much anyway

Okay Mr 3" True Duals. :waytogo:

 

[davenorr84]

Okay Mr 3" True Duals. :waytogo:

lay off the pipe dude..

 

[Hit Man X]

lay off the pipe dude..

Think about it moron, the unit is drilled to accept the Zerk fitting. Weaker by design.

Of course Ujoints are greased normally. :rofljest:

 

[Bovice69]

hold on now, hoooooold on.

drilling for a grease fitting shouldn't really affect the integrity of your U-joint. It depends on where the hole is put and how the stress is distributed on the joint. If you put it somewhere where the material is at it's thinnest, the likelihood of crack propagation is much higher. But if you put it somewhere that there's a good bit of thickness, the possibility of crack propagation is considerably reduced. To go into more detail on this, one could also examine the metal used in the joint. Some are more brittle, others are more pliable, you can get just about any property you want in a metal by using an alloy and different treatment processes. Somebody a lot more mindful of all of this is the one who designed that joint.

bottom line: pick whichever joint you want.

 

[davenorr84]

everyone with a greaseable U-joint WATCH OUT its gonna break!! :lol: