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Bag Envy
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2,247 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For a long time now I thought I knew how to detail a vehicle. But after reading this thread for awhile and cleaning/claying/and waxing my truck today and seeing the end results I think I have no idea what I'm doing. So I have some questions if some of your guys could help me out. Here is what my steps were:
Ryobi 6" orbital buffer
Meguiars:
Gold Class Wash
Clay bar with detailer spray and while truck was wet
Washed again
Cleaner Wax
Swirl remover
NXT 2.0
Alright now to the questions:
1.When applying wax/polish is it better to apply it with the buffer or by hand? Same goes for buffing it out...buffer or hand?
2. I've always thought microfiber towels left spider webs so I bought some rags that were almost as smooth as silk. I used these to buff out the wax/polish. But when I looked at my truck with a flashlight it looked like the polish didn't come off at all. Am I wrong about Microfiber towels?
I ask some more questions later...don't want to make the post forever long. Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give.
 

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Geresy Farms
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1,292 Posts
For a long time now I thought I knew how to detail a vehicle. But after reading this thread for awhile and cleaning/claying/and waxing my truck today and seeing the end results I think I have no idea what I'm doing. So I have some questions if some of your guys could help me out. Here is what my steps were:
Ryobi 6" orbital buffer Throw this in the trash.
Meguiars:
Gold Class Wash
Clay bar with detailer spray and while truck was wetIn order to really get a clean surface before you clay bar you either need to use a soap that's meant to strip wax or a cleaner.
Washed again No reason to wash again
Cleaner Wax Cleaner wax would be your only step if you were using it, you would stop here.
Swirl remover Good step, but far better results can be had with other products.
NXT 2.0 An okay wax. It contains a lot of fillers, but that may be what your after if your not doing a "full" correction
Alright now to the questions:
1.When applying wax/polish is it better to apply it with the buffer or by hand? Same goes for buffing it out...buffer or hand?To get really any sort of results you need to either use a PC/UDM or rotary. You may get a VERY TINY result by hand but nothing worth doing IMO. As far as wax it depends on the wax. If its a paste then I would apply it with a MF or foam applicator. If its a liquid wax you can apply it with a PC/UDM with a pad with no cut. As far as removing polish/wax remove it with a MF towel.
2. I've always thought microfiber towels left spider webs so I bought some rags that were almost as smooth as silk. I used these to buff out the wax/polish. But when I looked at my truck with a flashlight it looked like the polish didn't come off at all. Am I wrong about Microfiber towels?
I ask some more questions later...don't want to make the post forever long. Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give.Well anything touching your paint is going to potentially mar/swirl your paint. A MF towel is the safest way though to remove polish/wax residue.
I would hit up Chris at www.glimmerglassdetailing.com and have him put together an order for you with a PC,polishes,and some MF towels.
 

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Bag Envy
Joined
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2,247 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks wagon. I hate to pitch the Ryobi cause this is only teh second time I have used it since I bought it lol. I know everyone swears by the PC but I have never used one before and I've heard/read it's a steep learning curve. Am I wrong?

I mostly use liquid waxes. I used meguiars cause you can get it anywhere and out of all the store brands it seems to work the best. I see what your saying though in your reply. So if I had it to do over again how should I go about doing it all?
 

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is probably detailing...
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6,749 Posts
Thanks wagon. I hate to pitch the Ryobi cause this is only teh second time I have used it since I bought it lol. I know everyone swears by the PC but I have never used one before and I've heard/read it's a steep learning curve. Am I wrong?

I mostly use liquid waxes. I used meguiars cause you can get it anywhere and out of all the store brands it seems to work the best. I see what your saying though in your reply. So if I had it to do over again how should I go about doing it all?
The PC is super user friendly once you get the basic priniples of how to work the polish and how much to use down. The key thing to understand is you won't do irreconcilable damage to your paint if you mess up... the PC won't burn your paint... worst case you mar it up a little but you can correct that with the proper technique and another pass.
 

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Registered
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970 Posts
sorry to hijack the thread, but reading this reminded me of that write up you have been working on Dylan, you made any progress with it? ETA?:shake: in advance
 

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Bag Envy
Joined
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2,247 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The PC is super user friendly once you get the basic priniples of how to work the polish and how much to use down. The key thing to understand is you won't do irreconcilable damage to your paint if you mess up... the PC won't burn your paint... worst case you mar it up a little but you can correct that with the proper technique and another pass.
Well I;m gonna have to get one and try it then. I see all the work some of you guys do with it and it just blows my mind.
 

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I like 'em white
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2,749 Posts
sorry to hijack the thread, but reading this reminded me of that write up you have been working on Dylan, you made any progress with it? ETA?:shake: in advance
I was just thinking about this today. Especially since im getting a pc in the group buy so its gonna be here soon.
 

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A walking ball of wax
Joined
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3,549 Posts
The PC is super user friendly once you get the basic priniples of how to work the polish and how much to use down. The key thing to understand is you won't do irreconcilable damage to your paint if you mess up... the PC won't burn your paint... worst case you mar it up a little but you can correct that with the proper technique and another pass.
Believe it or not, I've burned through clear with a PC.
 

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South Carolina Gamecock
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388 Posts

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A walking ball of wax
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3,549 Posts
I have to suspect fowl play from the previous owner, the clear had to be unreasonably low. The result is barely noticeable to the average eye, but it still happened.

I was trying to remove a scratch right above the window. The combo of an ultra aggressive polish (Menzerna Power Gloss), an orange pad, and extra pressure was too much. From talking to other detailers the clear is *very* strange on the Crossfires. They were sprayed in a Benz factory, where the clear is notoriously hard, but it seems inconsistent.

Damage:

DSC_1065.jpg


If you look toward the bottom of the picture you can see what looks like fine crosshatching. Many on another detailing forum believe the area was previously sanded.

DSC_1084-1.jpg
 

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Bag Envy
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2,247 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Glad you explained Donnie cause I was gonna try to get in on the group buy and after reading your first post I was about to change my mind lol.
 

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A walking ball of wax
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3,549 Posts
Glad you explained Donnie cause I was gonna try to get in on the group buy and after reading your first post I was about to change my mind lol.
Yeah, it's very rare but anything can happen.

PS. While you're stepping up to the PC you should ditch that NXT and pick up some of our original blend :D.
 
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