i was checking out this damn lifter ticking on google and there is a certified machanic that says sea foam,atf,mmoil and all the others is a waste of time including shooting any cleaner down the push rod!! if we replace the oil pump and the O-ring he guarantee's that will fix the problem of our ticking issues! he said the oil pumps don't last and the pick up tube O ring splits thus not enough oil to lube up there....so i ran my motor today untill it started ticking good and it did start as soon as my gauge showed low pressure ?? apparently changing the pump is a 3 hr job. anyone change their pump/o-ring and still have the ticking ? just wondering!
i read a cure for lifter ticking ????
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I've got a friend who swears by lucasoil oil stabilizer. He says that when you do a fresh oil change, leave a quart of oil out and poor a quart of it slowly in while the engine is running. That shuts it up on his 03 yukon xl (just rolled over 200k)
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Agreed ^^
I'm gonna have to give this a try next oil change.
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You read that on a youtube video comment if im not mistaken. Pump is easy job for a 2wd....4wd can get a little tricky if youre dropping the oil pan.
dang it, could find the certified machanic's post but this one is pretty close and makes sense...
I recently ran into this same knocking/ ticking issue coming from my 2005 Suburban, 5.3 Vortec. After countless hours of research, multiple engine flushes, oil change, air filter, valve adjustment...etc etc etc...my solution and problem were relatively simple. If you look at your oil pressure and it reads anything under 40 at cold start idle this means your oil pump screen has one of two things: 1) It is clogged and needs to be cleaned, these things are pure metal so a costly replacement wouldn't be worth it, a simple clean will suffice. 2) The oil pump screen o-ring is allowing air into the system keeping the motor from efficiently moving oil through all rockers and rods. Both fixes require removing the oil pan, roughly 10 bolts, and the oil pump screen, 4 bolts. I flushed the engine before draining the oil, replaced the oil pump screen o-ring, cleaned the screen, and installed a new oil pan gasket all in a couple of hours. Low and behold I haven't heard a single tick since doing this, even in cold weather starts, and my oil pressure went from about 30 psi idle to around 45 psi. Take note I had already checked the valves to ensure there they were tight and this may not fix everyones problems but its an easy fix to rule out a few obvious things. One more key note I would like to add is that these motors are KNOWN for breaking the exhaust manifold bolts, typically on the backside of the motor near the firewall. This type of exhaust leak can also give the same noise as a dead lifter when under compression. I had one broken originally and broke another removing it. IF you decided to replace the gasket and pull the exhaust be sure to buy new bolts as the ones they came equipped with are very brittle. I hope this information helps out as many as possible. I spent hours and hours staring at my motor, computer screen, Haynes manuals, and such before finally figuring this out. I have basically compiled a few weeks worth of research as well as trial-and- error on this post. Good luck to all the Do It Yourselfers out there!
I recently ran into this same knocking/ ticking issue coming from my 2005 Suburban, 5.3 Vortec. After countless hours of research, multiple engine flushes, oil change, air filter, valve adjustment...etc etc etc...my solution and problem were relatively simple. If you look at your oil pressure and it reads anything under 40 at cold start idle this means your oil pump screen has one of two things: 1) It is clogged and needs to be cleaned, these things are pure metal so a costly replacement wouldn't be worth it, a simple clean will suffice. 2) The oil pump screen o-ring is allowing air into the system keeping the motor from efficiently moving oil through all rockers and rods. Both fixes require removing the oil pan, roughly 10 bolts, and the oil pump screen, 4 bolts. I flushed the engine before draining the oil, replaced the oil pump screen o-ring, cleaned the screen, and installed a new oil pan gasket all in a couple of hours. Low and behold I haven't heard a single tick since doing this, even in cold weather starts, and my oil pressure went from about 30 psi idle to around 45 psi. Take note I had already checked the valves to ensure there they were tight and this may not fix everyones problems but its an easy fix to rule out a few obvious things. One more key note I would like to add is that these motors are KNOWN for breaking the exhaust manifold bolts, typically on the backside of the motor near the firewall. This type of exhaust leak can also give the same noise as a dead lifter when under compression. I had one broken originally and broke another removing it. IF you decided to replace the gasket and pull the exhaust be sure to buy new bolts as the ones they came equipped with are very brittle. I hope this information helps out as many as possible. I spent hours and hours staring at my motor, computer screen, Haynes manuals, and such before finally figuring this out. I have basically compiled a few weeks worth of research as well as trial-and- error on this post. Good luck to all the Do It Yourselfers out there!
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I changed oil pump o ring and still have ticking. Try the solvent down the pushrods.
Could be a bad sender as well.
Also, oil pump can easily be done in 3 hours.
EDIT: maybe not easily, but it could be done
Could be a bad sender as well.
Also, oil pump can easily be done in 3 hours.
EDIT: maybe not easily, but it could be done
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Does this mean there's sticky/burnt oil up top that would cause the tick? Nahisayin?
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Why yes! That's the theory. I saw a few videos of this working well.
I need to try this on my piece. Maybe one day...
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