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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the 3" Rough Country kit on my 09 Friday. Overall, it went really well. I started about 10 AM, pulling things apart while waiting for UPS to show up. By the time the kit showed up shortly after 11, both sides were disassembled and the diff was out.

Doing the install by myself in my driveway, it took 7 hours... that includes a lunch break and a couple short water breaks. A buddy stopped by to help me lift the diff back up after installing the drop brackets. After trying unsuccessfully with the jack for a while, we just laid it across our chests and then lifted it into place... was much easier for us this way.

One issue I ran across: The instructions state in bold print you MUST use the supplied washer between the castle nut and the knuckle when installing the new upper ball joints. Ok, no problem. Well, when you tighten down the castle nut, it does not go near far enough to put in the cotter pin... and I had them TIGHT. Basically the ball joint end is even with the bottom of the castle nut. I called Rough Country and told them about it... He asked if I clearanced the knuckle with the 1/2" drill bit, I said I had, with a brand new bit. I was put on hold, and then a different guy comes on... "Now what are you trying to do?" I explained to him the issue again... he somewhat rudely says "Well take out the washer then!". I replied, "Ok, was just following the instructions that make it very clear you MUST use the washer." Response: "I know what the instructions say but these ball joints are different." Ok fine... so, I remove the washer, and then am just able to get the cotter pin in.

Now the next problem... the rubber boot on the ball joint is down against the knuckle, and not tight around the joint (allowing moisture in, and grease out). He tells me "when you drop it down it will be fine". I doubted this immediately, but said I would try it. Sure enough, it makes no difference up or down... if you slide the boot up around the joint where it should be, there is about an 1/8" or more gap between the knuckle and the bottom of the boot... and obviously, once you grease it, it just slides back down against the knuckle. I don't even know that they sent me the right joints. Has anyone else seen this?

One tip that I would tell people getting ready to do the kit is to run a tap through the threaded holes on the diff drop brackets. Due to the think paint it was a bitch getting the bolts started while trying to keep the diff held in place.

The look of the kit is great, I am happy with the results... but I think something is amiss with these upper ball joints...
 

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Diego Mafia
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no pics?
 

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07SilveradoNoob
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I know exactly what you mean about the balljoint boot, mine were the same way. . . but surprisingly I never noticed any grease coming out, expect where I overfilled it.

I used the washer w/ the castle nut and the cotter pin fit. . . but apparently RC did redesign the UCAs recently, even though that shouldn't have anything to do with the bj fitting into the knuckle- unless they use a different balljoint now-but I don't think so.
 

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i took the piece of shit upper control arms off cause i had nothing but problems with them so i took them out and cut the bump stop off and put the factory uppers back on....i used the instructions from the kit you can buy with out the uppers and ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no pics, no bueno
No, I don't have pics right now. Get over it. :biggrin:

Glad to hear I'm not the only one that has this kind of fit... they guy did say that the ball joints are being manufactured by someone else or something... but again, there was no way for me to use the washer and still get the cotter pin in. Heck, I wore deep grooves in the washers just trying! As long as they hold grease, I'll be ok, but the boots couldn't really be much looser.

At full lock, the 295/70 Terra Grapplers just barely touch the UCA with the stock 17" rims. Going to put some 1/4" spacers on tomorrow. No other clearance issues though. The only other thing I noticed is the ABS wires are VERY tight at full lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here are the photos... before pic, install pics, and after pic. I need to take some with the new tires but haven't yet. Remember the before pic already had a 1.5" leveling kit on it.







 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Any chance you got a fender measurement? I'm trying to decide if I want to lose the CCM and get the 3" RC. I know it's only 1/2" gain but I like the diff drop, and speaking of, does it drop the diff 3"?
Unfortunately I didn't get measurements before putting the new tires on... with my 295/70s I am at 40 3/4" front, 41 3/4" rear.

The diff drop is 1.5". If you figure the CCM will offset your CV angle by 2.5 inches, the RC kit gives you 3 inches of lift but only offsets the CVs by 1.5"... that was a major reason for me getting it.

Edit: I went and measured, it's closer to a 2" diff drop... so your cv angles are about 1" off of factory.
 

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Mossy Oak Pro Staff
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Looks good!
 
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