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Ok, so how do i install the springs? i have the LCA bolts unbolted but not taken out, where do i go from here? jack placement on the LCA? please help.
Thanks,
-Cody
Thanks,
-Cody
Installing 3" springs
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this is how I did it
unbolt tierod, swaybar, and shock
then black the jack under the control arm right where the shock bolts too and jack it up a few times for support.
back the lca bolts out slowly then lower the jack down slowly...you can also chain the spring to something just incase it decides to pop out....mine kinda popped out but it wasnt that bad...
unbolt tierod, swaybar, and shock
then black the jack under the control arm right where the shock bolts too and jack it up a few times for support.
back the lca bolts out slowly then lower the jack down slowly...you can also chain the spring to something just incase it decides to pop out....mine kinda popped out but it wasnt that bad...
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do i have to ubolt the tierod and sway bar?
also do i have to take off the spring pad thing on the bottom and put it on the drop spring?
also do i have to take off the spring pad thing on the bottom and put it on the drop spring?
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use tiedowns...
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its not hard to do and it will only make more room for when your jacking your lca's back up.
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I've yet to do a truck, but in my cars I always put a jack under the back of the LCA and undo the frame bolts and lower it down slowly. never seperated a tie rod end. And IDK if the shock goes through the spring in your truck, but if it does, like in my cars, then you can leave that bolted in place on the LCA to be used as a "spring keeper" in case it tries to pop out. Then you can left the spring off it and slip the new one over it, or just remove it if it's in the way.
And if the rubber thing you're talking about is the isolator, and the new springs didn't come with one, then yes. Re-use yours. I always re-use mine anyways, because I'm paranoid it won't drop enough if I use brand new ones! They're like a 1/4" thick! lol!
A second set of hands usually helps when re-aligning the LCA's with the frame. And be mindful of the clock position of the spring in the LCA pocket if it need to be indexed at a certain spot to seat right. The LCA's on mine have two little holes in them to be used as indexing marks. Just ignore this though if your truck doesn't have them.
Hope this helps, even though I don't yethave model specific hands-on info. I'll be doing my truck shortly, though!
And if the rubber thing you're talking about is the isolator, and the new springs didn't come with one, then yes. Re-use yours. I always re-use mine anyways, because I'm paranoid it won't drop enough if I use brand new ones! They're like a 1/4" thick! lol!
A second set of hands usually helps when re-aligning the LCA's with the frame. And be mindful of the clock position of the spring in the LCA pocket if it need to be indexed at a certain spot to seat right. The LCA's on mine have two little holes in them to be used as indexing marks. Just ignore this though if your truck doesn't have them.
Hope this helps, even though I don't yethave model specific hands-on info. I'll be doing my truck shortly, though!
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blowindoors is that your truck in your avatar? if so we demand you post pics immediately!
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I didn't unbolt the tie rods when I did mine, but you do have to unbolt the sway bar. Slightly jack up the LCA, Take of the bolts, and slowly drop it down. And yes, I would use the pad on the drop springs to avoid any squeaks.
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It's my truck w/ slight work of photoshop (Shaved handles and that low of a drop) ... i just finally installed my real life drop haha (2/4), so pics will be up by the end of this weekend, thanks bro..
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awesome, my truck is just leveled right now, I am picking up a set of 2" drop coils and drop hangers this week from another member, the 2/4 will be the max I will go because of my tire size.......285/50r20's and they have a ton of tread still left
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Thanks yall for the info. going to attempt this tomorow, only parts i was really worried about is the spring popping out or me tryin to get the LCA back up right and get the bolts through
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I have done coils on mustangs before but never on a truck, everyone makes the coils out to worse than they actually are, just make sure you have an extra set of hands
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best advice yet...I don't think I could have done it myself...
I just did this on my truck, an 03 gmc sierra single cab shorty, about three times. Don't screw around with your lower contol arm.
Start off by taking out your shocks, unbolt your tierod and sway bar links. Your going to need a ball joint seperator no matter what you do. You might need it to pop the tie rod. This is also a good time to check the rubber on your swaybar links. If theyre are shredded or too hardened replace them.
Unbolt the little 12mm headed bolt that holds on the brake line to the spindle. If you have them, disconnect the abs sensor from the top of the strut tower so you don't damage it.
Next support the spindle with your jack. Push just slightly up from its resting position. Then remove the nut on the upper control arm, and pop it from the spindle with the ball joint seperator. Don't use the fork style or your probably going to destroy your dust boots. After you pop the upper control arm ball joint slowly lower the jack all the way down. You should be able to remove the coils by hand at this point. I had lift coils on mine and had to use a pry bar on one side. You can push down on the lower control arm for more clearance.
Take off the upper coil bushing and lower coil bushing from your old coils and put them on the new ones if they didn't come with them (the rubber cap on the top and the little ruber tube that goes around the coil on the bottom). With out these your front end will squeek every second you drive.
Put them back into their positions and reverse the procedure to finish the installation. You don't mess with the lower control arm, because it has the channel you need to set the coils.
Start off by taking out your shocks, unbolt your tierod and sway bar links. Your going to need a ball joint seperator no matter what you do. You might need it to pop the tie rod. This is also a good time to check the rubber on your swaybar links. If theyre are shredded or too hardened replace them.
Unbolt the little 12mm headed bolt that holds on the brake line to the spindle. If you have them, disconnect the abs sensor from the top of the strut tower so you don't damage it.
Next support the spindle with your jack. Push just slightly up from its resting position. Then remove the nut on the upper control arm, and pop it from the spindle with the ball joint seperator. Don't use the fork style or your probably going to destroy your dust boots. After you pop the upper control arm ball joint slowly lower the jack all the way down. You should be able to remove the coils by hand at this point. I had lift coils on mine and had to use a pry bar on one side. You can push down on the lower control arm for more clearance.
Take off the upper coil bushing and lower coil bushing from your old coils and put them on the new ones if they didn't come with them (the rubber cap on the top and the little ruber tube that goes around the coil on the bottom). With out these your front end will squeek every second you drive.
Put them back into their positions and reverse the procedure to finish the installation. You don't mess with the lower control arm, because it has the channel you need to set the coils.
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