[The Whale]

So in my quest to replace my garbage Wal-Mart Jensen amp that has finally shit the bed, i scored an Alpine M1000 at Best Buy for $200. I couldnt really pass up a $400 amp at half price, even if it kind of is overkill for what i've got. For now, i've just got a little pioneer 10 in a shitty truck box, but it was free so i'm not complaining. I ultimately want to replace the box and sub(s), but it's been so long since i've played with that shit, i don't know where to start. I like the Atrend boxes at best buy online, but i'm confused about 10s versus 12s. I was reading somewhere on here that 10s are better in downfiring applications since the 12s can hit the floor and cause damage. is this true? I'm not doing competitions or anything like that, i just like my music loud and to sound good. I listen to mainly rock/metal and the occasional jigga music, if that makes much difference in sub/box choice. Suggestions?

 

[The Whale]

ok i just checked the sub and it might not be as crappy as i thought.. it's a Pioneer TS-W256DVC but i can't seem to find much info on it that's not printed in spanish (maybe that's telling me something, lol) but it's got a huge fucking magnet on it. Says it's 800w max and 350w nom, @ 4 ohms. I'm thinking the wedge box that it's in is probably not the best. Also, how should i wire that thing to get the most out of it?

 

[zach-b]

its a 800 watt ten

 

[Alter Ego Trip]

I like the Atrend boxes at best buy online, but i'm confused about 10s versus 12s. I was reading somewhere on here that 10s are better in downfiring applications since the 12s can hit the floor and cause damage.

Larger sub = more cone surface area. More cone surface area = more air movement. More air movement = greater SPL potential. It's not the diameter that could pose a problem, it's the excursion. It doesn't matter which sub you have, if it's mounted too close to the floor it will contact it, pure and simple.

ok i just checked the sub and it might not be as crappy as i thought.. it's a Pioneer TS-W256DVC but i can't seem to find much info on it that's not printed in spanish (maybe that's telling me something, lol) but it's got a huge fucking magnet on it. Says it's 800w max and 350w nom, @ 4 ohms. I'm thinking the wedge box that it's in is probably not the best. Also, how should i wire that thing to get the most out of it?

Nope, still crappy. :tongue: Power ratings are completely subjective, same as amplifiers. Peak numbers mean jack, and are just there to sell product to uneducated consumers. I'm assuming seeing as it's a 4 ohm sub and it's got DVC's that they are 2 8ohm VC's. Wire them in parallel to produce a 4 ohm load. Problem is most amps won't put out near enough power at 4ohm's. I prefer headroom which means running an amp that is rated much higher than the sub is capable of. This prevents clipping which destroys speakers.

 

[Fifty-Three]

magnet size means jack, peak watts means jack, price means jack.

and yes, its true....woofer excursion making contact with any surface is noob shit...10, 12, 15, 18 speaker size doesn't matter if its hitting the floor.