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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to do a D60/ 14B swap and i'm just trying to get a heads up on what to expect. According to the info that i have come across, the spring perches for the D60 and the 10 bolt that i have are both 32 inch center to center so that shouldn't be a problem. not sure about steering or shock mounts. i'm sure u-joints will be an issue. any info is appreciated.:)
 
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What year K5?

Go ahead and buy crossover steering. I honestly don't know if the stock system will work, but if you're serious enough to go 1-ton, there's no excuse to stick with the stock push/pull setup. I got my "basic" setup here:

http://northwestfab.com/dana60steeringarm.html

Your Dana 60 uses the same ujoint as your 10 bolt (1310). The problem you'll run into is that you'll likely need to get your current front driveshaft cut down if you're putting the D60 in the stock location.

The 14 bolt uses a 1350 ujoint at the yoke, so you'll need to pickup the conversion joint. You might have to get your rear shaft cut down as well depending on what you do with the axle location.
 

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Show Trucks R 4 Gays
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I am swapping in 1 tons in my K5 next week. I have B52s and a shackle flip. With about 4-5"s of lift the stock driveshaft willl work out great. I am doing rear 52s up front and 56s flipped in the rear for added wheelbase, and so the stock driveshaft will fit with the 14 bolt. As for steering, I am running highsteer arms, a 2wd steering box, 1.5 OD 1ID DOM with tube inserts and 7/8" heims, and a drilled pitman arm to 3/4". The rest of my steering bolts are 5/8ths. I got a 1310 to 1350 from summit racing, and am using Ford shock towers for up front bought at partsmike for $18 each. That should give you some ideas to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
good info already. i typed my post in a hurry before work and forgot to say it is an 84 K5 and the donor truck i'm looking at is an 82 K30.

also, before someone says it, yes i used the search function but didn't come across the info i was looking for.

i wasn't really wanting to lift it much but i guess it might be "necessary." i did come across an install thread about the ford shock towers and it looks like some serious flex can be achieved with not too much work.

big red, are you going to do a build thread, or is there one already and i just missed it.
 

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Swamper Brotherhood
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this is actual tech.. no one will bash you for this IMO
 

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Show Trucks R 4 Gays
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I dont have one yet, I really never do. I guess i will do one on the blazer. On ck5.com look up Trazer build. There is a good build thread on there that is 40ish pages long. I plan to complete the whole swap in 2 weekends. I do a lot of pictures on facebook that i build, But to night I will start a "ole poo poo rebuild" thread (aka my blazer). My blazer is also a 1984, and the ford shock towers will be cut and bent at the top to clear the steering shaft. Ill show pics later

Example of my recent truck rebuild on facebook
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2133925&id=50311517&l=d577f3e0f6
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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Michael u suck at build threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Your Dana 60 uses the same ujoint as your 10 bolt (1310). The problem you'll run into is that you'll likely need to get your current front driveshaft cut down if you're putting the D60 in the stock location.

You might have to get your rear shaft cut down as well depending on what you do with the axle location.
i don't mind getting the driveshafts modified, but is there a benefit to moving the axle locations?
 
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i don't mind getting the driveshafts modified, but is there a benefit to moving the axle locations?
There is definitely a benefit to moving the front axle forward. You gain some clearance as it's easier to trim away the front of the fender than it is to trim the firewall. Also, by moving the front axle forward and the rear axle rearward, you improve the approach and departure angles.
 

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Well said Matt. Yes my K5 is stock on 36x13.50 Iroks. My fenders are cut heavily. I plasma cut the entire bottom off the inner fender well. My plan is to be at 5"s with 42s on it.

2579_1045166245282_1109424342_30118.jpg


IMG_1075.jpg


IMG_1074.jpg


The fenders are hacked a lot worse now due to body damage from the past few trips. I am starting a build thread today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There is definitely a benefit to moving the front axle forward. You gain some clearance as it's easier to trim away the front of the fender than it is to trim the firewall. Also, by moving the front axle forward and the rear axle rearward, you improve the approach and departure angles.
ok. and the way to accomplish this is by moving the hangers/shackles? i also thought i read something about zero rates moving the axle forward...?

I am starting a build thread today.

i will be looking for it!
 
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ok. and the way to accomplish this is by moving the hangers/shackles? i also thought i read something about zero rates moving the axle forward...?
Yep, the easiest way to move the axles is with zero rates. You can use them up front and in the rear with the option of moving the axle 1 or 1.5"

If you wanna get a bit more extreme axle movement, you can move the rear hangers pretty easily. Up front it's a little more complicated to go REALLY far because you have steering linkage to deal with.

If I were to move my axle any farther forward, I would be using some B52's to replace the front hangers. Check them out about halfway down the page:

http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm
 
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Here's a side shot of mine to give you an idea of how much I have trimmed away. I haven't moved my rear axle, but I clear my 38.5's with 5" of lift out back until I really start twisting the rear axle around. The front still needs more trimming.

Before

DSCF0078.jpg


After

DSCF0102.jpg


And today it looks like this. I've done just a hair more trimming. It needs more now.

IMG_1730.jpg


DSC_0041.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
well my donor arrived last night!!:big_banana_Dance:

i would have posted a pic, but by the time i resized it to the size the site would allow, you couldn't hardly even see it. 82 K30 crew cab long bed SRW.

now it's time to get to work. it is just a little hard to get motivated when it is 119 degrees outside.:banghead:

anyone need an sm 465 and a 205 transfercase?

how do you make a decent size pic show up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
well almost a year later, but i did it! got the dana 60 and the 14 bolt installed. DIY4X B52s with 52 inch front springs, 56 inch rear springs with the DIY4X shackle flip and switch, shock inboarding kit, 6 inch shackles front and rear, northwest fab reverse high steer crossover steering which required a new 2wd steering box. i rebuilt the kingpins, put new spindles, wheel bearings and rotors on the front. the rear got the DIY4X disc brakemounts for the disc conversion. the rear axle ended up about 4 inches closer to the rear and i had the drive shaft lengthened. i haven't mounted shocks yet, but soon. i took it for a quick test drive and i have death wobble bad! could this be as simple as shocks, or am i looking for something else.

oh, and H2s with 35s.
 

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Swamper Brotherhood
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check your caster and toe
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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