GMC Truck Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Ultimate IFS Pirate
Joined
·
1,907 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ignition cylinder removal- EDITED

EDIT- Ok, now I'm down to replacing the cylinder. Following the Haynes directions, it says use a 3/16 allen, I've found that way too big so I'm wondering if there are more ways to release it.

As of now I have the key all the way in the starting position and using a small allen to press down on the top release button. With it pressed I turn the key back to on and it should magically come out. No such luck.



Original post-

I've got several problems that may be related. Originally the truck would not shift at all, I disconnected the brake/shift linkage, reconnected and it shifts without the brake depressed. However, with the engine running and the linkage still connected it won't shift at all.

Also the key will not come out of the ignition in the off position. The truck is in park, the dash indicator says it's in park. It also won't go into the accessory position.

Let me know what you think.
 

·
GMFS slowest truck :read:
Joined
·
5,501 Posts
it probably missed a tooth when it was hooked back up...and now its gonna want the key to go further back to get it out. ive had similar type shit happen.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,061 Posts
Well rolling it over sure didnt help the situtaion now did it? :crazy: Your shift linkage needs to be adjusted for the key to come out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Ok because with both the linkage to the tranny and the linkage to the brake switch disconnected from the column, the key is still stuck.

It sounds like a bad NSBU switch at the transmission or misalignment of the NSBU switch. Do the back up lights come on in reverse?
Also, if the linkage is to short, full park cannot be obtained.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
The back up lights do come on. What is the NSBU switch? The truck shifts and drives fine.
The Neutral Start/ Back Up switch. The computer uses one set of contacts to determine that the truck is in Park or Neutral to allow starting. It also doubles as a backup lamp (reverse) switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Alright, I thought about this some more and I believe the rack that the gear at the lock cylinder moves is out of synchronization. If you were to place the key in park, the steerin g lock should engage (wheel won't turn round and round. Remove the steering wheel and inspect where the pin slides up in park to engage the wheel lock. I wonder if the pin is bent? If not, the rack is out of sync.
 

·
Ultimate IFS Pirate
Joined
·
1,907 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, here are more symptoms.

The key will only come back far enough to turn off the gauge idiot lights, judging from the feel I can tell that the key isn't coming back far enough.

My steering wheel won't lock, however with the key being prevented from coming all the way back to the "off" position, I can't see why it would lock since it only locks when it is off.

But I have fixed it so it shifts with the linkage connected and the key on.

I pulled out the switch to test it. Looking at it I saw where to depress it and I did, I could hear the relay being kicked over. Now rewind to 1999. Using a blown fuse in the engine compartment, I wired to it to install a switch to kill my brake lights. Knowing I wasn't in need of this anymore I removed it during the tear down. Well today I was looking at the relay, saw my wires going to the fuse, replaced it, and now I have brake lights. Previously I checked only the interior fuses, completely forgetting about the engine bay one. Now I just have to hook up the switch so it is properly activated.

The key is still stuck, so I may have won the lottery so to speak and had to flukes occur at once, the cylinder may have had enough.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top