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Discussion Starter #1
im upgrading the rear set up in a couple weeks.im on an art 4 link bagged on bar with a bolt in c notch.im going to put in the canti kit from kp and welding in a 10 inch step notch.is there any thing i shud noe before hand?also my panhard bar is welded to my bolt in c notch.i could cut it off and reweld to my new notch or is it better if i just put a watts while im at it?
 

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TROLL REVOLT of 2012
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watts link
 

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"God Damn Buick Regal"
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Watts fo sho
 

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Whats the main benefit of watts vs. Panhard?
 

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OGMFS Member
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Whats the main benefit of watts vs. Panhard?
the watts has double the holding strength with very little flex and keeps the rearend perfectly centered as where the pan pulls off center slightly at full lift.
 

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Okay cool thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok cool now i need to no wat welder to go with i need one that will be strong enough to weld notches firewalls tubs ect.wat is a good affordable welder u guys recomend?
 

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The early stache
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im not a fan of the kp watts. I like a weld on watts. I modded my kp watts to be weld on by ditching the whole diff bracket and making custom weld on tabs. If you're gonna buy a welder you may as well build your own setup and save some $. A wishbone setup seems to be great but I have yet to build one. buy the biggest welder u can and u won't regret it. I bought the millermatic 212 and love it! pricey tho.
 

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TROLL REVOLT of 2012
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mines welded to the frame, but bolted to the differantial
 

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layin big rubber
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I got a lincoln 175, it's a 220 volt welder, I got it a few years ago new for 650 out the door, I did my frame notches with it, most of those weld together notches are 1/8 inch metal, did the job just fine, I built my own watts and used a bolt in kp kit, the kit was fine but I should have just got a weld in 4link and saved the money
 

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ok cool now i need to no wat welder to go with i need one that will be strong enough to weld notches firewalls tubs ect.wat is a good affordable welder u guys recomend?
You asked for a good affordable welder, Lincoln Weld Pack 100. It has the gas conversion which was $90 several years ago. I've had this same welder since 2001 I think. I used it to build the custom C-notch that's been in our truck since 2002. Towed multiple campers, tractors, trucks, cars etc.., and at that time I was still using the flux core wire. It's only a couple hundred bucks at Home Depot and runs off of 110v. Had picture of a weld from the new step notch, but can't get it resized for some reason.

We are doing nearly the same thing you are, we have an older style ART 4-link that has the sleeve bags behind the axle in line with 4-link bars(pre-AirBar), gonna try to modify ours into a 6-link.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so i bought some 24s put them on and only one side in the back tuks the iother side sticks out aabout a half an inch more than the other.why is this did my axle shift?
 

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Big Louie
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so i bought some 24s put them on and only one side in the back tuks the iother side sticks out aabout a half an inch more than the other.why is this did my axle shift?
have u driven it yet? sure the wheel is seated all the way, what procedure do u go through to do the install
 

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Discussion Starter #15
L
have u driven it yet? sure the wheel is seated all the way, what procedure do u go through to do the install
no I haven't driven it yet.I will drive it today after work.I'm positive the wheel is seated correctly.I thought it could be because of.my panhard bar but the passers side always sticks out more.this never happened on my 20s?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok thanx for the help.I will update this after I get my axle narrowed and see what u guys think thanks agen.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
one mre thing ive ben hearing very bad reviews of slam bags that they cannot withstand high psi is this true?
 
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