We do offer a Cantilever Conversion kit that is designed to adapt the KP Components Cantilver to a universal 4 link. Our converstion kit comes with 4 weld-on axle tube tabs that are desinged to locate the end link to the rearend. That way you can bolt the end link to the provided tabs and to the cantilever bar.
We have a dealer who purchases our bolt-on 4 link and cantilever systems for his specialty shop. He has a proven 1100 RWHP F150 that is running our system with no problems. I know you're truck not at that level on the HP scale and you shoudl be fine with the kit. Since you're performance oriented, then I can sell you a kit without the shocks and you can locate and upgrade to which ever ones you want to. That way you can get into an adjustable shock to tune the rear suspension towards your prefered ride.
Since you're talking about running a SD weld-on 4 link, then are you going to purchase our Watts link to keep the performance out back. Just wondering because we offer a bolt-on 4 link kit, as well as a weld-on 4 link kit as well. Both could come with a pan hard bar, however you're a serious performance person, and I would expect to see a Watts link under your ride.
Let me know if there is any other questions that you might have, or information you may need.
Well ive talked to a couple other guys today, thanks for the info clint, and I come to realize that the canti kit has a hard time towing, and well thats the same thing as launchin real hard, LOTS OF WEIGHT on the rear, and its going to squat way to much and no hook as good as I I want, (this is my understanding) I got the 4link already thanks, and the watts link is a maybe... if the panhard is setup right I really should be alright, but its still in the back of my mind.
I think Im going to end up doing bags right behind the axle... f9000s or maybe even a shockwave... 6.1 stroke at a 20* angle I should get enough lift for what I want and need
Well if you want a truck to hook up and launch then you do want the rear end to squat. The reason guys complain about the rear end diping is because the suspension is working under a load. That's the same as a coil-over working, however on a coil-over you can adjust the load by the springs. You could do the same on a cantilever by install some adjustable shocks, or go with something like a Sway-Away, Fox, QA1, VariShock, etc.
You're already stepping in the right direction with the 4 link that's for sure. If you decided to run the F9000 off the axle just ake sure to keep in mind the room you'll need. Just because there's going to need to be shocks, bag brackets, pan hard bar / watts link back there. You might consider running the parallel 4 link with a shockwave off the back of the axle tube, outboard the frame rails. That way you can run the Watts link / Pan Hard bar behind the axle, inside the frame rails, and not worry about fitment issues.
In regards to towing, the cantilever system does tow just fine if it's a smaller open trailer. We try and steer people away from towing with it if they have a trailer that has a large amount of tongue weight. Simply because there's going to be a large amount of stress / load transfered throught the back portion on the frame rails and through the notch section. If these area's aren't reinforced with crossmembers, or securely welded, then a problem could develope. It's better to play it safe and protect peoples investments rather then have them take a chance.
Good luck with the project. I'm sure you'll figure out what you want to run, and what's going to be the best application process for your ride.
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