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Well i just recieved my KP Components 6-link, appears to have everything accounted for. no missing nuts, bolts, washers, yada yada yada. I will be doing this post from day one to final product. I know it's been done before but when I went to research them, none of the pictures show up anymore since they were done awhile ago. KP was great to deal with, parts got here quick. The only coomplaint i have right now is... they didnt send me my damn Bags!!! So im gonna have to sort that out with them tomarrow. but i have lots of work to do till im ready for the bags so i have some time. If you have ANY questions about the process or product, feel free to ask. Ill try my best to give and honest and unbiased opinion with how the kit goes together and works. Before any of you do it, ill post it first!!!............:nopics: haha. I got tons of pictures so stay tuned for those. but for now. off to the garage to start on the cantilevers.

Ian

Alrighty, here are the pictures ive been promising. ill try to keep them in order best as possible.

this is the previous bag setup that i had. just a simple as can be 2 link that had crazy vibration problems.
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First step is to remove the old link setup and bags. I slipped some ubolts around the axle and tacked them up to the notch to hold the axle in place while doing this install. It also allows the axle to rotate so adjusting your pinion angle is a breeze.
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Next i drilled out all of the rivets holding the front spring hanger on. I didnt have any fancy tools to do it faster. The drilling took awhile but it did the trick.
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Next i did the same to the rear hanger. and then cleaned up the rest of the frame with a flapper disk and then a wire wheel.
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I then had some down time waiting for my kit to arrive so i conitnued to clean up the frame and then brushed on some semi-gloss POR15. It turned out kind of funny with some spots glossy and others flat. If this were to be a showtruck, i might go back over it to make it look a little nicer, but its a daily drivers so i wasnt really worried about it.
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My kit arrived and the fun began. I started by dropping the gas tank, because i couldnt get to the backside of the frame to put a socket on the nuts for the front link mount.(you might not have to move the tank if it is still in the stock location, but i have raised mine 2 inches and it was in the way). Once i got the tank out of the way i was able to bolt on the front 4link hanger.
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I then did the same for the cantilever mount.
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Next i assembled the link bars, pressing all of the bushings and sleeves into the links. After then were done i install the forward 4 link bars on axle bracket first, then into the front link bracket and put some bolts in.
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Then i attached the dogbone(aka cantilever link) to the cantilever bar and bolted the to there hangers
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My rear Slam Specialties bags will arrive tomarrow but in the meen time i threw my old firestones in there and mounted up the shocks.
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here is a picture of how the panhard bar bracket mounts. You must mark and drill this 4, 1/2 inch holes.
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and here it is all cleaned up and with the dirty wheels slapped on for sh*ts and grins.
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here it is with the bed on and wheels TUCKIN'!
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If you have any questions feel free to ask.

So ive had the truck done front and rear for a full 24 hours now. This thing ride soo nice. I put some slam specialties re7's in the front and now get very very very good lift haha. The side to side is more then i had imagined also. Here are some pictures of it 100 percent done and dialed in!
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werd, definately post some pics up

what kind of air mang. you gonna run?how many tanks? where you gonna mount them? what size valves? lol i could go on for hours, i got tons of questions
 

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werd, definately post some pics up

what kind of air mang. you gonna run?how many tanks? where you gonna mount them? what size valves? lol i could go on for hours, i got tons of questions
hey if you have any questions you can PM me and ask me. My Suicidedoors 4link should be here by the end of the week and I am going to pu tit on with bags over the axle and build a sweet little bridge. Oh yeah and strip and paint all the suspension and frame in a Single stage black.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The truck is already bagged, just with a lame 2 link that i cant stand any longer. So i went this route to replace it. My air magangment consists of. Suicidedoors engine driven compressor kit, 8 smc 3/8s valves, 17 gallons of air. Its nothing special at all since this is a daily driver

No i didnt get the watts link, didnt have the cash yet. Ill order it next paycheck though haha. And, the truck is just about done. If i woulda known you wanted to come check it out in the process, i would have let you know i was gonna work on it all night tonight!!
 

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It's cake. Just make sure the panhard is 7* off the axle and there's no more than 7/8" thread showing on any of the threaded bar ends.
 

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Is the Watts link setup used with the 6 link kit as well or is it one or the other type thing? I thought it was one or the other but the way you guys are talking, it sounds like you use it in conjunction with the 6 link. I had the 6 link kit on my S-10 but sold it and now have an 05' Sierra so just looking at my options. Thanks.
 

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hotdogfarts
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Yes it's used in conjunction with the 6 link. The watts is just a centering device, you either use the panhard bar that's included with the 4 link kit or buy the watts link seperate and ditch the panhard. Either way both are getting the same job done.
 

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Yes it's used in conjunction with the 6 link. The watts is just a centering device, you either use the panhard bar that's included with the 4 link kit or buy the watts link seperate and ditch the panhard. Either way both are getting the same job done.

Gotcha, thanks. So why spend an extra $450 on the Watts kit when the 6 link already includes a panhard bar? Is the Watts link stronger, look better, both or ?
 

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I think if you have the money at the time and you order from kp directly, they will "upgrade" your kit to a watts and not send the panhard. All for the same price minus the amount of the panhard!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i added pictures to the first post instead of way down here
 

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i added pictures to the first post instead of way down here
How many holes did you have to drill out to make the KP brackets bolt up? Were the holes already existing and you just had to make them larger or did you have to mark and drill new holes altogether?

What is the largest size bag you can run back there? It looks like you have a lot of room.

Are you going to remove the bridge bar or just leave it in? I take it you do not need to add a bridge bar with the KP kit?

Looking good so far.
 

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hotdogfarts
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Gotcha, thanks. So why spend an extra $450 on the Watts kit when the 6 link already includes a panhard bar? Is the Watts link stronger, look better, both or ?
The biggest reason is because of the angle on the KP kit's panhard it tends to shift the axle a little more than it would if the bar was at a better angle. It's not really a big deal unless you have wheels that are close to your bedsides as is, chances are if your wheels are really close now to the bedside you may rub when riding low or aired out.

The watts link centers the axle a tad better on the kp kit and doesn't allow for as much axle travel side to side.

I think it's only worth the 450 if your wheels are cutting it close. If you have the proper offset wheels and arn't that close to your bedsides there is no point in upgrading aside from the "bling' the watts link provides.
 

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The biggest reason is because of the angle on the KP kit's panhard it tends to shift the axle a little more than it would if the bar was at a better angle. It's not really a big deal unless you have wheels that are close to your bedsides as is, chances are if your wheels are really close now to the bedside you may rub when riding low or aired out.

The watts link centers the axle a tad better on the kp kit and doesn't allow for as much axle travel side to side.

I think it's only worth the 450 if your wheels are cutting it close. If you have the proper offset wheels and arn't that close to your bedsides there is no point in upgrading aside from the "bling' the watts link provides.
Makes sense, thanks. Off hand, do you know if the factory 20's are the proper offset or would I have to look into new wheels? I'm trying to keep a "factory supertruck" look and would prefer not to use aftermarket rims.
 

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hotdogfarts
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Sorry I don't know off hand, I would imagine with a smaller tire than what comes factory you would have no problem. The newer 07 (NEW bodystyle)stuff with the factory 20's have big offsets, with those you would have no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You have to drill a total of 12 holes. The 4 hole furthest forward on the rear bracket, on each side, and the 4 holes for the panhard bar bracket. the rest are all existing holes from the factory that you get when you take off the factory leaf spring mounts.
 

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You have to drill a total of 12 holes. The 4 hole furthest forward on the rear bracket, on each side, and the 4 holes for the panhard bar bracket. the rest are all existing holes from the factory that you get when you take off the factory leaf spring mounts.
Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No problemo man
 
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