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OGMFS Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is the panhard bar adjustable enough for a boxed frame on the NBS? Or, do I need to shorten the bar a bit to compensate? TIA!
 

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OGMFS Member
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks man, I wanted to know before I powdercoat.:anitoof:
 

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Serious!
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IMO if your gonna have big rollers the panhard bar inst your best plan. IMO i would use a watts an fab one up for next to nothing
 

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Since the frame is boxed you can modify the frame bracket that bolts to the frame, and make it a weld on bracket. You wount be able to access the bolts to install the nuts, so the bracket will need to be welded on.
As far as the bar length is concerned, we do offer the longest bar in the industry. When installed properly, the typical weld-in notch needs to be trimmed to allow the frame mount to slide forward into the notch. That way the bar will be as close to the diff. cover without hitting.
In your case, you'll need to modify that frame mount so that it can be located on the frame and welded on. This will allow you to keep the bar length as it is now, and not modify the bar.

If you have any questions please feel free to email, PM, or call us directly here at KP.
 

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If you run into tire clearance issues, or want to upgrade from the pan hard bar, then you can run our bolt-on Watts link kit. This system wount take any type of modifications, and it can be welded to the side of the boxed frame.

If you're interested in a Watts link kit let me know. I can offer you one at a discounted price that would be more then the normal 5% discount that we offer to GMFS members.

:pepper:
 

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Bagged and Bodydropped
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1,750 Posts
Since the frame is boxed you can modify the frame bracket that bolts to the frame, and make it a weld on bracket. You wount be able to access the bolts to install the nuts, so the bracket will need to be welded on.
As far as the bar length is concerned, we do offer the longest bar in the industry. When installed properly, the typical weld-in notch needs to be trimmed to allow the frame mount to slide forward into the notch. That way the bar will be as close to the diff. cover without hitting.
In your case, you'll need to modify that frame mount so that it can be located on the frame and welded on. This will allow you to keep the bar length as it is now, and not modify the bar.

If you have any questions please feel free to email, PM, or call us directly here at KP.

Well I am 1/4" away from my diff. And my driver side tire still rubs on the lip of my bed and they are rolled... It's already adjusted to the 7/8" max exposed threads... I cant afford 400 more dollars for a watts so I guess I will just have to keep rotating my tires till I save up some money.

Or is there any other way to adjust it more? passenger side wheel looks pretty retarded all sucked in...
 

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OGMFS Member
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you run into tire clearance issues, or want to upgrade from the pan hard bar, then you can run our bolt-on Watts link kit. This system wount take any type of modifications, and it can be welded to the side of the boxed frame.

If you're interested in a Watts link kit let me know. I can offer you one at a discounted price that would be more then the normal 5% discount that we offer to GMFS members.

:pepper:
The frame isnt boxed yet, but thats what Im wanting to do when I do the install.

If I weld in the panhard mount when notching and boxing, can it be used for the Watts link when I upgrade?Or dose the watts link have a different mount altogether and have to be reworked?

I'm running a 20x8.5 with a +30 offset so I should be fine for now with the panhard. I am notching for 22's and do plan on the watts in the future. The truck is my DD and I want very reliable. I dont plan on dragging the shit out of it, but I like to drive :driver:

I'll give you a call in the morning for a quote on the watts, I need some other things as well.I didnt plan on doing the watts now, but I want to!:drool: :think: I dont plan on doing the install till next month. Im talking vacation time to do it and Im just trying to make sure I have everything together when the bed comes off.
 

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The pan hard mount is different from the Watts link mount. So if you weld the pan hard bar bracket on now, you'll need to remove it later on to get the Watts bracket in a similar location.

I can get you in on a special if you're interested in a 6 link with a Watts. Normally $1,729.35 but I can get you into a complete 6 link with Watts powdercoated for $1,445.00

If it's stricly a Watts link that you're looking for then I can also work you a deal right now. Normally $450 on the Watts, I was going to offer them to GMFS members with a a sale price of $390.00

Let me know if you're interested, or anyone else.
 

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OGMFS Member
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That is a killer deal with the watts and powder coating! I already have the 6link though.:anitoof: I definately will be doing the watts link though. I'll get my list of thing needed and give you a call, thanks man
 

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As seen on TV!
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The pan hard mount is different from the Watts link mount. So if you weld the pan hard bar bracket on now, you'll need to remove it later on to get the Watts bracket in a similar location.

I can get you in on a special if you're interested in a 6 link with a Watts. Normally $1,729.35 but I can get you into a complete 6 link with Watts powdercoated for $1,445.00

If it's stricly a Watts link that you're looking for then I can also work you a deal right now. Normally $450 on the Watts, I was going to offer them to GMFS members with a a sale price of $390.00

Let me know if you're interested, or anyone else.
How long are you gonna be selling the 6 link and watts link for that pice???
 

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I'm going to put a sale package kit together like the one listed above. Once I get that all sorted out I'll make an offical post. Right now I'll honor that price to anyone who contacts me for a quote, and the quotes are good for 30 days.
If you're interested in some products, please feel free to PM, email, or call me directly.


Thanks
 
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