LED/Resistor install question (specific) PICS

3486 Views 22 Replies 9 Participants Last post by tidos76, Sep 29, 2009

aReJaY

Discussion Starter · Jul 3, 2009

So I've read though the tutorial, done countless searches and although have read this question vaguely mentioned, I havent come across a definitive answer...so here goes:

On the HVAC controls if I wanted to replace the lighting with LEDs I understand resistors need to be installed in-line to regulate the voltage so the LEDs illuminate correctly. I've attempted to do this and it doesnt seem that there is room for these resistors to be installed. By that I mean, when I solder the resistor in line with one of the LED legs it makes it like an inch long and the lights that are already on the board are bumped right up against the board..I've attempted to draw up a quick sketch of what im talking about. I could be using the wrong LEDs, wrong type of resistors, etc. So was hoping we can clear this up once and for all.

In the pic below I tried to show the led on the right how the ones on the board (factory) are and the one on the left shows how it would be if you add a resistor. It makes it so long that it would be almost impossible to add it back to the board. Im sure Im doing it wrong so was hoping someone can point me in the correct direction.

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1 - 20 of 23 Posts

aReJaY

Discussion Starter · #2 · Jul 6, 2009

i know the LED install is a played out, dead horse beaten topic, but does anyone have any info on this?

THE YETI

· #3 · Jul 6, 2009

PM TooTall, that dude is the LED Guru

aReJaY

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 7, 2009

SuperchargedSS said:
PM TooTall, that dude is the LED Guru

Nice, thanks bud.

sittinphatt

· #5 · Jul 7, 2009

On the manual Hvac I had a bit of trouble due to the series they made the LEDS. But when you solder the resistor to the pos. polarity you have to bend the resistor over to somewhat make room so it will fit correctly in replace of the old led.

tootall

· #6 · Jul 7, 2009

just bent the resistor up, and loop it over like a horse shoe . . . use one resistor for each LED . . . The resistors get phaqkin hot. Use the correct LED for the light that you need. Don't get a bunch of low output (lumens) LEDs to get the brightness that you need . . . it's better to get the widest, and the brightest . . . then file down the lense to disperse the light.

I have learned and figured things out the expensive way.

THE YETI

· #7 · Jul 25, 2009

.

tootall

· #8 · Jul 25, 2009

SuperchargedSS said:
.

yes. . . I am slow . . .

Robbie is a very patient and understanding guy - Thanks !

THE YETI

· #9 · Jul 25, 2009

im actually pretty damn evil

SMiGGs

· #10 · Jul 25, 2009

tootall said:
yes. . . I am slow . . .

Robbie is a very patient and understanding guy - Thanks !

tootall have you restocked

?

tootall

· #11 · Jul 25, 2009

2ToNE04 said:
tootall have you restocked ?

yes sir . . . a long 15 days of waiting . . .

Robbie's has finished . . .

bub

· #12 · Jul 25, 2009

so the resistor cuts down on the light output of the led?

01 suburban ls

· #13 · Jul 30, 2009

bub said:
so the resistor cuts down on the light output of the led?

It steps down the voltage. LED's function at around 3 volts. The vehicle's electrical system puts out beteen 12 and 14 volts. A LED connected direct to that voltage will last about 0.00000000000001 seconds before it fries.

01 suburban ls

· #14 · Jul 30, 2009

I just thought of something. And maybe I'm missing something. But the LED's that are being installed are to replace the illumination bulbs for when the parking lights are on at night right?

Can the LEDs be directly soldered to the board and a resistor soldered inline to the parking light input wire of the harness before it gets plugged into the HVAC controls? Basically snip the illumination wire and solder in the resistor that way all bulbs (LEDs) get the steped down voltage at the same time off one resistor.

Or I could just be high on crack.

bub

· #15 · Jul 30, 2009

01 suburban ls said:
It steps down the voltage. LED's function at around 3 volts. The vehicle's electrical system puts out beteen 12 and 14 volts. A LED connected direct to that voltage will last about 0.00000000000001 seconds before it fries.

so it stays the same brightness then? i hooked a led up with a switch for my fogs but it's super bright. was wondering if there was anything i could do to dim it down some.

tootall

· #16 · Jul 30, 2009

01 suburban ls said:
I just thought of something. And maybe I'm missing something. But the LED's that are being installed are to replace the illumination bulbs for when the parking lights are on at night right?

Can the LEDs be directly soldered to the board and a resistor soldered inline to the parking light input wire of the harness before it gets plugged into the HVAC controls? Basically snip the illumination wire and solder in the resistor that way all bulbs (LEDs) get the steped down voltage at the same time off one resistor.

Or I could just be high on crack.

yes, but then you have one resistor for all of them . . . the resistors get kinda hot on their own. If that one resistor goes out, then all of the LEDs are out.

It's just a lazy way to get it done.

tidos76

· #17 · Sep 26, 2009

tootall. what mcd leds are you using?

tootall

· #18 · Sep 26, 2009

tidos76 said:
tootall. what mcd leds are you using?

depends . . . every color is different . . . and the location in the parts.

The cluster/head light switch/cargo/fogs have a turquoise over lay to it . . . on the Escalade/SS/Denali clusters, so blue comes out great no matter what MCD it is. anywhere from 800-1200 depending on the size of the LED and how many.

Then there's red . . . and it just sucks. You have to use twice as many LEDs or if you get a LED with a high MCD, it makes hot spots . . . so it needs to be very bright.

you can have the same MCD with red and blue, but the blue will always come out more brighter.

It's the lumens on the color spectrum . . . available light out put. Same idea with HID head lights . . . the higher the number, the less visible light out put it makes.

3mm blue, MCD 800 - - brighter
3mm red, MCD 800 - - - more dim

tidos76

· #19 · Sep 28, 2009

i have been using 3500mcd 5mm flat tops. they seem to be workin good. on the tuff spots to get enought light i have been using 8000mcd 5mm and just skuffing the tops to scatter the light. the headlight switch and cargo are kind of a pita to get enought light without trying to cram 5 leds in each.

one more question. how the hell do you get the airbag switch apart. i figured it would pop apart like the rest but its givin me hell, and i dont wanna break it.

i have thought about using flushmounts but how would you resist them?

thanks for the help

tootall

· #20 · Sep 28, 2009

air bag switch . . . I started out with 4 small precision screw drivers . . . then I just lost my patience after the 3rd time, and I cut off the plastic tabs. When I was done, I used small dabs of super glue in the corners

surface mounts are supposed to be the shit . . . but they're extremely small to work with

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