I think you're confused about re-gearing. When you re-gear, the tranny doesn't get touched at all. Re-gearing simply means swapping out the ring and pinion in your rear axle for a different gear set. Your stock rear end is either 3.42, 3.73, or 4.10 (these are all GM options.) The higher the ratio numerically, the better it is for larger tires.
If you have 3.73s or 4.10s you don't need to re-gear, as long as you stick with a max tire size of 33-35". If you have 3.42s, you're probably going to want to re-gear. 4.10s are good for 33's and 4.56s are good for 35's. Look in your glovebox for which code you have...
You want to have the GT4 or GT5 code.
Re-gearing puts your engine in a more useful powerband with the larger tires. In return, this is better for your transmission. Basically it's going to shift less, because it won't downshift and search for the right gear when you're just cruising at highway speeds or going up small hills. When the tranny works less and shifts less, less heat is produced. Heat kills trannies, so less heat is good.
You'll also see better gas mileage when you re-gear and you'll get some performance back (from the engine being in the correct powerband.) Acceleration is greatly increased when you re-gear with larger tires.
Again, re-gearing isn't neccessary. It's recommended, but if you already have 3.73s or 4.10s and you stick with 33 or 35" tires, you'll be fine.
As far as lifts, everyone above pretty much covered this area. You keep talking about wanting a 6" kit. The only good 6" kit is the RCD kit. The Fabtech 6" kit is junk, in fact I don't think they even produce it anymore.
For the same price, you're probably better off going with a 7" kit. Fabtech and Pro Comp come to mind. I prefer Pro Comp shocks over Fabtech shocks, so I'd go with the 7" Pro Comp.
Body lifts don't look that bad on newer trucks. Newer trucks hide the frame a lot better than older body styles. And it's definetly not just a 4x4 thing, I've seen many 2wds with body lifts. I've even owned one. They may just not be as popular where you live. Set a new trend in your area. :read:
To answer your question above, the only way to get 3 or 4" of lift is to use a spindle lift. (Assuming you don't want a body lift.) Again, for about the same price, you're better off going with a 4" spindle. I'd look into Full Force Suspension spindles, last time I checked they were fairly cheap and good quality. They're comparible to CST's cast spindles, and CST is a reputable company, but expensive. With 4" up front, you could probably clear a 285 or a 305 tire. (About 33x11 or 33x12.50 respectfully.) A lot depends on what wheel you decide to go with. The width and backspacing of the wheel you choose will determine how wide of a tire you can clear. I wouldn't go any taller than 33" though. Beware though, spindles require a specific backspacing... so make sure you don't exceed the maximum backspacing that the spindle says.
If you want a cheap lift that will clear 35's, do this:
Get a 4" spindle and add a 2" coil spacer. For the rear, get a 4" block or a 2" block and an add-a-leaf. Stick with a max wheel width of 8" and get the correct backspacing for the wheels. With some minor trimming of the front valence and possibly the rear plastic of your inner fender, you will be able to clear a 315/75 (35x12.50).
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