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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone tell me how to figure out the antidive on a front link setup. also could you give me any formulas that help figure link length, seperation and anything else to design a front link setup?
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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What are you designing a link setup for? What kind of link setup? What purposes?
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its for a 99 chevy. i would like a equel length link design so i only have to carry one spare. and it would be used manly for trails and some rock, and probly have some mud thrown in.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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question - not to be an ass but do you know what your getting into? Your talking a SFA swap with a link front suspension. Your looking at 10k+ easy if your using a dana 60. Also what kind of link suspension are you talking about. You dont want a 4 link front which is what would use equal length links...
 

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I still dont understand why you want a full 4 link setup and everything when you live in delphos. Where the hell around here are you gonna need to have that muc articulation and strength to go wheeling
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
why woulden't i want a linked front. and yes i realize the cost of a sfa swap. And if you think i'm asking this because i saw your truck and thought it was nice and want to do something like this half assed that ant going to happen. and yes i plan on using a 60. also i'm just starting the reasearch of the link design, and i also don't plan to do the swap till the spring of 2007, so i should have plenty of time to plan everything out. also did you get the tierods in the mail yet.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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ok, well are you going to link the back also? Do you know what type of link setup you want? coils, coilovers? half springs? 3 link or what?

What are you looking to gain by a link setup? What kind of driving will you be doing?

Also the tie rods are ready to go out and shoudl tomarow or friday and I threw in 2 sway bar endlinks since its taken so long to get them out - sorry about the delay.
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Smith said:
I still dont understand why you want a full 4 link setup and everything when you live in delphos. Where the hell around here are you gonna need to have that muc articulation and strength to go wheeling
I would use it if i maid a trip to the badlands or to haspen in indiana. also i want it so i can run bigger tires since i broke stuff up front after having my truck lifted for 2 weeks so i dont think i should put any bigger tires on it as is.
 

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black4x4 said:
why woulden't i want a linked front. and yes i realize the cost of a sfa swap. And if you think i'm asking this because i saw your truck and thought it was nice and want to do something like this half assed that ant going to happen. and yes i plan on using a 60. also i'm just starting the reasearch of the link design, and i also don't plan to do the swap till the spring of 2007, so i should have plenty of time to plan everything out. also did you get the tierods in the mail yet.
Why wouldnt you? Because around here there isnt any place where you will ever use the full articulation of a 4 link. A straigtforward SFA would get you anywhere. unless im just missing out on the wheeling spots (and i know im not) there isnt much of any place to wheel around here. Plus ask DE about this but wont the heims on a 4 link go to shit with any mud?
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dark Eternal said:
ok, well are you going to link the back also? Do you know what type of link setup you want? coils, coilovers? half springs? 3 link or what?

What are you looking to gain by a link setup? What kind of driving will you be doing?

Also the tie rods are ready to go out and shoudl tomarow or friday and I threw in 2 sway bar endlinks since its taken so long to get them out - sorry about the delay.
Right now i don't plan on linking the back gust running a shackle flip with 7" sprins. i would run coilovers.

i want the front to be real flexy and to hopefully not have a complete bone jarring ride. the truck would see daily use for a year or two after the swap.

and no biggy on the tierods.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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correct - it will eat the heims fast. This is an issue im looking to solve for when I eventualy link mine. Im very well may not link it until I have anotehr DD.
 

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Oh and before you take any of my posts the wrong way im not meaning this to criticize you. YOu do it how you want lol and if you want help then ill be there
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Smith said:
Why wouldnt you? Because around here there isnt any place where you will ever use the full articulation of a 4 link. A straigtforward SFA would get you anywhere. unless im just missing out on the wheeling spots (and i know im not) there isnt much of any place to wheel around here. Plus ask DE about this but wont the heims on a 4 link go to shit with any mud?
yes the mud will tear the hiems up quiker but so will road grime.
 

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black4x4 said:
yes the mud will tear the hiems up quiker but so will road grime.
Well is this gonna be a DD at all still
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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biiiig diff between road grime and mud - what size tires are you planning on running? Im guessing 40"+ - im running a shackle flip and 6" springs + a 2" block in the back and am ass high right now.
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Smith said:
Oh and before you take any of my posts the wrong way im not meaning this to criticize you. YOu do it how you want lol and if you want help then ill be there
I'm not going to take any afence to what you say it your oppinion. like they say differant strokes for differant folk. like you your doing sfa for mainly show were me i'd do it cause i beat the hell outa the truck. and it also helps that jasons so close if i need something.
 

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black4x4 said:
and it also helps that jasons so close if i need something.
Lol why yes it does :crazy:
 

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heavy on the skinny pedal
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
right now i plan on eathier a 40 or 42 but will probly do 40s. and do you think its possible to do forties with 10 or 11ins of lift with cutouts?
 

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Good luck with 11" total lift...it may be possible, but if you wanted to use it, you would have to trim. 11" might be good with 38s tho.
 

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Yeah good luck with 11". If you want to USE the truck and get off camber bring that number to around 8" and thats a good place to start.

So what happens on this site? I spout out a bunch of tech, dark eternal repeats what I say, and then everyone thinks he's the 4 link God around here? :crazy:

Anyway, not paying attention to all the regurgatation above, heres the answers to your question:

-Anti-Dive Calculation
Anti-Dive is calculated exactly the same way as anti-squat, just reversed. As you see in this pic:



reverse everything to the other tire. The POC is where you will measure your anti-dive. I personally would aim around 50% AD.

-Link Design
Your link length and such is going to be determined more by what you have to work around under the truck. Ideally you want your links as long as possible.

I would personally run a 3 link front suspension in your truck with a panhard bar if you plan on keeping standard steering with a crossover setup. If you plan on full hydrosteering you can go with a triangulated 4 link. Do not run a parallel 4 link with a panhard because they bind horribly when articulating, also don't run a triangulated 4 link with standard steering.

Your link seperation, again, is going to be determined by what you have to work around. You want a large amount of seperation at the axle to keep your roll axis as high as possible. Once you determine the maximum link seperation at the axle, draw out the suspension and play with the link seperation and location at the frame end to get your desired roll axis and anti-dive percentage.

On the actual design, your best bet, as I mentioned above, is going to be a 3 link with panhard bar. Run 2 lower links parallel with each other, one at each end of the axle. Then your 3rd link, the upper link, should be as close to the center of the axle as possible while not hitting the oil pan and front driveshaft and still allowing a high roll axis. Your panhard bar should be as flat as possible and should be the exact same angle as the draglink. Ideally you want your draglink and panhard bar to be perfectly flat at ride height.
 
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