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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been wanting a suburban for a few years now. I've previously grown up with several GMT400's and a few Fords once I got into the real working world. We have 2 young kids and often travel with family. Our current rides are a Jeep Gladiator and an F250. Started searching for a low budget Suburban/Yukon/Excursion/Sequoia. I looked over several and ended up in disappointment (which I should have known for low budget). Finally ended up agreeing on a black 2005 Yukon XL SLT 4x4. It has 171K miles. The body is severely faded, interior needs love, some dents/dings and a little rocker/quarter panel rust but its a daily driver. Starting this thread to document the process in getting it ready for a family trip in April to TN from NY.

Parts should come in quick over the next few weeks and then I will get a lot of drive time in before the big trip.

Issues found so far:
  • Electrical issue with the auto parking lamps (see separate thread here Auto Lights Malfunctioning). Will perform ground cleaning efforts, replacement of headlight switch and then ambient lighting sensor, etc.
  • CEL, P0420. Will try swapping the down stream O2 with the passenger side to see if the code follows from bank 1 to bank 2. If the code follows we will replace the O2. If not we will be replacing the converters.
  • Small gas leak that seems to be coming from the top area of the tank down the side, If we do pull the tank I plan to replace the fuel pump with GM Genuine/Delco or Bosch.
  • Transmission fluid and filter change as it is not as red as I would like to see.
  • Obtain spare tire & rim, did not come with one.
  • Replace spare tire hoist, looks damaged.
  • Intermediate upper steering shaft due to slop and noises.
  • Check front/rear diff, t-case and other ancillary fluids. Change if necessary.
  • Audio speakers as the drivers door is not working.
  • Driver seat replacement or repair (heated seat element out, bottom cushion torn in multiple places, side controls are broken.
  • Replace side view mirrors (drivers rattles badly, passenger cracked). May just get quick JY replacements and then eventually swap out with a nice tow set.
  • Heater control replacement. On cold mornings the dial does not ramp up the digital temperature until warmed up, electrical glitches within unit?
  • Lots of interior pieces such as cup holder rubbers, door switch panels, door lights, jamb plugs, seat fold handles, etc.
  • Rear glass fix as one of the defrost wires broke off the glass.
  • Center caps for the avalanche wheels.
  • Exterior accessories such as mud flaps and bug deflector.
For now that is the starting point. Pics to come (forgot my computer today), its no beauty but a nice driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got the Yukon looked at today. Only new items not identified are some transmission fluid leaks in the cooler lines at the crimps and a leaky rear differential cover.

Lots of codes stored within from TPMS, BCM, CEL, Airbag. Will work through and get this unit straightened out! Been driving around the last few days and it's a tanking the snow compared to my 20 F250.

Got the first round of parts ordered. Not cheating out here are we got all AC Delco (and Gates as they make for Delco) components. Heading to JY tomorrow for interior pieces.
 

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I bet your fuel leak is from the center line on the sending unit. The 2500 suburbans have 2 fuel tanks and there is a pump that will add fuel from the rear to the front. It does so through a fitting in between you high pressure and return lines. When I replaced the unit on a friends 1500 there was a "cap" on that line, but it didn't actually seal the fitting and he had an annoying leak like you are describing. You should be able to just put a good cap on that line.

You seem to have some experience, but if I can offer a couple tips as I have done several of these for friends.

On level ground jack the rear up as high as possible and make sure you put the jackstands under the frame because you are going to want as much droop on the rear axle as you can get.
Remove the driveshaft, it is just going to get in your way.
You'll need a 5/16 and 3/8 quick disconnect tool for the lines. Autozone has a cheap plastic set that works just fine.
Go ahead and disconnect the fuel filler and vent lines, there is a flap that should keep fuel from sloshing out.
Drop the rear first and you won't have to disconnect the evap lines. It will swing down just fine if the axle is at full droop.

Should be good from there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I bet your fuel leak is from the center line on the sending unit. The 2500 suburbans have 2 fuel tanks and there is a pump that will add fuel from the rear to the front. It does so through a fitting in between you high pressure and return lines. When I replaced the unit on a friends 1500 there was a "cap" on that line, but it didn't actually seal the fitting and he had an annoying leak like you are describing. You should be able to just put a good cap on that line.

You seem to have some experience, but if I can offer a couple tips as I have done several of these for friends.

On level ground jack the rear up as high as possible and make sure you put the jackstands under the frame because you are going to want as much droop on the rear axle as you can get.
Remove the driveshaft, it is just going to get in your way.
You'll need a 5/16 and 3/8 quick disconnect tool for the lines. Autozone has a cheap plastic set that works just fine.
Go ahead and disconnect the fuel filler and vent lines, there is a flap that should keep fuel from sloshing out.
Drop the rear first and you won't have to disconnect the evap lines. It will swing down just fine if the axle is at full droop.

Should be good from there.
Thank you for the insight! Yes I have a fairly extensive background in auto. Mostly as a hobby, but I do enjoy projects. My plan for this due to weather related circumstances I don't have a place to work on the rig "inside" none the less heated. So I am subbing the tank drop, inspection and pump replacement to a buddy who has a shop. Under normal spring/summer/fall circumstances I would perform myself. I do have plans for a barn in my backyard summer of 2023!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Temporarily patched the tire. Got a replacement on the way and this one will be junked as its technically a sidewall puncture. Going to pull parts from a parted out 03 Yukon Friday, should make some progress this next week. First order of parts all arrived. To the shop Monday for the tank drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ouch way rougher than mine was lol
I didn't realize the need for a reverse torx socket set to swap the seat. So I didn't get that accomplished today like I planned. I was dying for this new seat on our ride tonight. Everything else has been installed with a few more missing parts found. So the ever ending list gets longer.

I think someone tied to break into this rig at some point. The linkage for the drivers manual lock is MIA, door has a dent next to the handle and the interior moisture barrier was half ripped. Will need that.

Also realized the rear door reflectors are not the same as the fronts which are lighted.

We got the airbag light out with the replacement of impact sensor #2! The CEL came back for PO420. A new converter set will be ordered Monday along with intermediate shaft and bearing, towing mirrors, steering pump and phone mount.
 

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Rear doors are reflectors only. I tapped into the wires for the front doors and ran wires to the rears
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got the truck to the shop today for the first round of repairs, hopefully he will only have it for a couple days at most. Also got the next online order done, hope to receive everything within the next 2 weeks.
 

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Parts are still rolling in and of course some not. Having issues with UPS right now saying they delivered and were signed off however they were not! Missing the new converter set and my tow mirrors. I did get a new P/S Pump in as well as the steering shaft bearing however I am VERY disappointed with the shaft bearing. It is notchy, junk! It was listed as a Dorman unit however upon inspection is not.

Shop pulled the tank and found the top of the sending unit to be rotted causing the leak. Upon transfer of the fuel sensor it was noted the contacts looked burnt. So now we are at a wait point for the GM sensor from the Dealer. Also found a fairly rusted brake line behind the tank we will take care of now.
 

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You might check the brake lines elsewhere, as they are notorious for rusting. You found the rear line bad, they also commonly rust where they run along the frame rail from the driver's side front wheel to the abs controller under the frame below the driver's seat. Fuel lines can also be a problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You might check the brake lines elsewhere, as they are notorious for rusting. You found the rear line bad, they also commonly rust where they run along the frame rail from the driver's side front wheel to the abs controller under the frame below the driver's seat. Fuel lines can also be a problem...
Agreed. I told him anything suspicious is to be replaced. The P.O. did do new lines along the rear axle but he didn't specify up front. We will check those areas you noted.

Finally got the new converters. Shop owner will be by my house tomorrow to pick them up and install while it's waiting for the other parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got the truck back after a lot of work completed. Still a few small issues that need dealt with. For now we will make some miles and let the system monitors run to confirm new converters are working properly. Also had the shop put on a new Remy 160 amp alternator and starter. Crazy how much quicker the rig fires up with the new starter.
 
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