Anyone ever ran the MLS on the early LS heads that had the notch on the mating surface and factory graffiti gaskets?
I’d hold off on that lol.Im about to be doing this I believe
Yes but Iv done it many of times on post 02 heads that had the graffiti gaskets, and they worked fine.Lol summit sells the right gasket, you used the mls gasket for post 2002 heads and now its leaking coolant...
My 01 had non notched 862 with graphite gaskets. I ran LS1 MLS and factory TTY blots, never had an issue. I’m guessing the notch is super early 99 stuff, same time as the early odd fbody heads you never see anymore. because I’m not finding anything about them.Interesting
Im honestly not sure which I have, im assuming notched because its ab 01 5.3...
Curious tho, if I get an ARP stud kit, that isnt TTY anymore right? Would be nice to be able to retorque the heads.
I dont have milkshake, just a bit of steam getting into the oil and sludging it. If it was already mls and not tty I could retorque it and it would be fine.
BUT once a paper gasket leaks it usually cracks and lets shit by regardless of a retorque, and no way in hell do I want to risk it on tty bolts...
Yea. Factory defect. It was technically just casetech “iPhone battery icon” 706s, but Iv yet to see a non casetech 706. And I still see them on motors in 2021, kinda amazing.Yeah 706 are the heads that crack right?
Im hoping not that lol
I’m not sure. But I know GMB is that cheap brand on amazon. Iv used them before, and they work, but my god they will rust up all the hose connections in a month.Do all the waterpumps for these have metal impellers or is there like one brand that is all metal? Im looking at GMB because a lot of people have said they had good luck with them, are they all metal?
No. All the water necks on the pump. Pump will still look like brand new aluminum on the outside. But once you take all the rad and heater core lines off it’s scaled up rust all inside. Like SBC bad... on aluminum.What do you mean "rust up the connections"?
Are you saying the worm clamps rust? Because I can buy better worm clamps at home depot lol.
Or are you saying the metal impeller is somehow more rust prone than the Gates pump?
Is the Gates also metal?
I figured metal to metal I dont see a difference till the black waterpumps on summit lol...
Iv never seen another set of 862 or any truck head with the notch.The MLS gaskets for the notch heads have thicker rubber right there for the notch.
They are SPECIFICALLY and upfit part to run an mls gasket where a graphite gasket came stock.
Would you like me to find the part number on summit? Ive seen them, I might need them lol...
I should add this truck is a 99. Like baby blue interior, even blue headliner, Manual height adjustment on the seats, a lot of odd stuff going on. Super earlier NBS truck.Thanks for the pics tho, I still need to take a look at my heads physically. Been researching everything else today. Money for all this stuff just cleared lol.
I appreciate it, but I’m just putting 243s on it. 5.3 was already built, with gen IV rods and flat tops. Budget ran low so the 862s were reused.Would you like me to find the part number on summit? Ive seen them, I might need them lol...
Maybe something else was going on on the truck? Aluminum doesnt rust? If its the same materials why would it rust because of the brand alone?No. All the water necks on the pump. Pump will still look like brand new aluminum on the outside. But once you take all the rad and heater core lines off it’s scaled up rust all inside. Like SBC bad... on aluminum.
I doubt there’s any propeller change. And the factory unit goes for 200,xxx plus so I dont see a reason for a “upgrade”.
wat, water pump bolts are not tty? They're like 22ft lbs.. how did you break that?Broke a waterpump bolt off smfh, nobody told me they were tty, I should have seen it in the design.
Oh well, buying a drill. Stainless stud kit is on the way for it. Best part of studs is when you find yourself drilling out a snapped bolt lol...