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trucknut
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412 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Long post ahead. I got a PM and see many threads addressing questions about how to go about static drops and how they work in real life, so I thought I would make a post putting my .02 cents in, having driven a 96 chevy extended cab slammed 5/8 every day for 8 months now, day in and day out.

I'm going to give you all some good advice, because I have learned a lot working on my truck, doing all the work myself, and having to rely on it for sole transportation (which can be tricky at times like now, when its down most of the time for a full custom paint job ) . Anyway, as far as the suspension goes, I was/am in the same boat as you. I started with a 3/4 drop, and while it was cool and very streetable, I didn't like the rake too much. I wanted bags, couldn't afford it at the time. The reason I went with the 5/8 was because I already had the 3" coils and 2" hangers. That was mistake #1. Hangers. They are a total pain. You have to pull the bed to put them on and the rivets on the driver's side are blocked by the gas tank. So, I went my merry way to the local hot rod shop and picked up a 6" flip kit and 2" lower control arms. Mistake #2. LCAs + coils = alignment issues. I'm going to swap them out for spindles, and I will be able to align it all back to spec, and they wont rub the inner lip of my $600 apiece wheels like they do now Now, a 4/6 is a very streetable drop. The only real thing you have to cut is the frame for the bolt in notch. Sure, a 4/6 is cool.. but you want to go that extra mile right? I did. So, when you take the plunge and go 5/8 ( you know you want to) you'll want to use 3" coils and 2" spindles in the front, and a flipkit and shackles in the back. You could think that you'll be okay on the bolt in notch like I did, but you'll hate it instantly. There's no travel. So, knowing that I will want bags later, i went ahead and cut the bed out and welded in a monster notch from Suicidedoors.com . But, if you dont want the big hole and dont care about laying out all the way, get the same notch i did ( the 8" one ) and just trim it down to fit under the bed floor. I have plenty of travel in my notch, I can lay frame on 22s easy. Now, for the front, anything lower than 4" and you have to cut a notch in the frame for your tie rod ends. If those break youre screwed. You'll also notice your swaybar doesnt fit. Dont chunk it - I ran without it for a while and yes, it does make a big difference in these big trucks. What you'll need is some shorter endlinks. However, if you use DJM lca's, you'll notice that their brilliant engineering department designed them so that the swaybar is at some goofy angle and you end up busting out your bushings. Solution = redrill and tap the swaybar mounts on the frame. Also, dont forget your carrier bearing shim. Nothing is worse than taking off from a stop and getting that extra vibration jiggling your hot, expensive Starbucks all over your dash. If you go 5" in the front, and even with a wheel and tire combo that equals 27" in overall diameter like my 20s with 255/35ZR20 tires, you'll need to cut out or better yet modify your inner fenders in the front, cause rubbing them and bumping them sucks. And for peace of mind, even though my billet Intro wheels tuck perfectly, I rolled all 4 of my fender lips - no worries. And if your roads even slightly suck like they do here, you'll want a slightly larger profile tire, like a 45 or 50 series, something in there. Good luck, and remember - No fat chicks, the truck will scrape!

Cody
 

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trucknut
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412 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Most of these problems are due to being really low on an extended cab OBS truck, and using LCAs with coils instead of spindles with coils.
 

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Burning Rubber
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994 Posts
I'm glad I've had plenty of friends with FSC's, so I already KNEW pretty much everything he just explained(and indeed expalined well, but run on alot).

Do the right thing and go with less drop and Bigger wheels:head:


In my opinion, there's no reason to go lower than a 4/6 drop if you drive it everyday... especially with so much in the air suspension industry these days..
 

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It's Jerry's World
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3,573 Posts
Static drops are a great way to have a cool looking truck for about 2500 less than bagging. thats what i did with my orange truck, now im gonna build a car up, then get a 99-02 to bag:evil:

good writeup cody, MODS maybe sticky this in street forum??
 

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Registered
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If you go to a 4/6 or lower, make sure to use spindles as codeman said. I have spindles on the 6/8, and have NO tierod rubbing. I have never flipped them or whatever you do to them. Static drops are fun sometimes. You get to lay frame on speed bumps, potholes, driveways, or anything that's about 3" tall. If you go static, make sure to get your y-pipe raised up as much as it can go. Road debris is a bitch!
 

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trucknut
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412 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Beyond Static said:
If you go to a 4/6 or lower, make sure to use spindles as codeman said. I have spindles on the 6/8, and have NO tierod rubbing. I have never flipped them or whatever you do to them. Static drops are fun sometimes. You get to lay frame on speed bumps, potholes, driveways, or anything that's about 3" tall. If you go static, make sure to get your y-pipe raised up as much as it can go. Road debris is a bitch!
:word: I fear roadkill:(
 

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trucknut
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412 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Chaoss said:
how much did the Bags run you?
Anything negative about adding bags on your truck?
Not to be a pain or anything, but lets try to keep this thread to the pros and cons of static drops:)
 

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samcarol
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3,596 Posts
lowred said:
this is why lifts are better:read:
not really... bearings/trannys/differentials/poor gas mileage/etc i can think of many reasons why lowered is better. But in the end, its your choice and whatever you do, you live with it.

2/4 sucked for me. I don't know why it rode so badly, but towards the end, i couldn't drive my truck when it was static. If i drove it on the freeway, my ass would end up being numb from just driving it. It was lowered with coils, hangers and shackles. And supposedly that is the better way to lower a NBS truck
 

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Line-X of San Antonio
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5,237 Posts
2k1slvrdo said:
not really... bearings/trannys/differentials/poor gas mileage/etc i can think of many reasons why lowered is better. But in the end, its your choice and whatever you do, you live with it.

2/4 sucked for me. I don't know why it rode so badly, but towards the end, i couldn't drive my truck when it was static. If i drove it on the freeway, my ass would end up being numb from just driving it. It was lowered with coils, hangers and shackles. And supposedly that is the better way to lower a NBS truck
damn, ive had zero problems with my 2/4 and it rides great IMO with stock shocks too. im just ready for a 4x4 again. nothing against lowered trucks, but i probably wont own one again, atleast not for a long while, unless its fast as hell :bowtie:
 

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Registered
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2,318 Posts
2k1slvrdo said:
not really... bearings/trannys/differentials/poor gas mileage/etc i can think of many reasons why lowered is better. But in the end, its your choice and whatever you do, you live with it.

2/4 sucked for me. I don't know why it rode so badly, but towards the end, i couldn't drive my truck when it was static. If i drove it on the freeway, my ass would end up being numb from just driving it. It was lowered with coils, hangers and shackles. And supposedly that is the better way to lower a NBS truck

2/4 is not static :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 

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I hit a piece of concrete in the middle of the road about the size of a baseball. Ripped my y-pipe all up. Low static drops are sweet lookin, but for a daily driver, the small tires you must run, make it a horrible ride. I got to work almost everyday with a headache.
 
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