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Discussion Starter #1
Had my first welding lab today at Cal Poly....... started with a SMAW (stick) Surfacing Weld. Here is one picture of my beginners welds, haha. I am open to any suggestions...... I really want to get good enough by the end of the quarter so that I can weld/build stuff for the K5 I will be getting. These were with a 6013 electrode at 155 amps.
WeldingFirstLabJan1820060136013.jpg
 

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Not bad considering stick is a lot harder then mig and its your first day
 

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well first off you dont do surface welds with that sparkle rod (i know your instructor told you to, but just dont think that your going to be building a truck frame with that shit)
Once you get that rod down he'll hook you up with some 7018 or similer lime coated rod and then you'll be blazin...

Seriously dont worry about how those welds look... for some stupid reason in every school program they teach you shit you'll never need.

The closets ive ever come to using that procedure is hotpassing a backweld, and that whole weld gets gouged out anyway.

Your best weld is the middle inch or 2 of the 4th weld.
Thats what you want, your steps clearly defined
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys.

well first off you dont do surface welds with that sparkle rod (i know your instructor told you to, but just dont think that your going to be building a truck frame with that shit)
Once you get that rod down he'll hook you up with some 7018 or similer lime coated rod and then you'll be blazin...

Seriously dont worry about how those welds look... for some stupid reason in every school program they teach you shit you'll never need.

The closets ive ever come to using that procedure is hotpassing a backweld, and that whole weld gets gouged out anyway.

Your best weld is the middle inch or 2 of the 4th weld.
Thats what you want, your steps clearly defined

Ya we started out with a 7024..... then he had us switch to 6013. I was talking to my teacher (he's a pretty cool guy) and he was also telling me how pointless this was, just practice for everything later on. He said when it comes around to MIG and TIG I can stay after and practice all I want. :head:
 

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155 is a bit hot for that rod too. also the angle of your Vs indicate youre traveling to fast which is a direct result of excess heat. other then that you seem very consistent which is key in strong welds.
 

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well first off you dont do surface welds with that sparkle rod (i know your instructor told you to, but just dont think that your going to be building a truck frame with that shit)
Once you get that rod down he'll hook you up with some 7018 or similer lime coated rod and then you'll be blazin...

Seriously dont worry about how those welds look... for some stupid reason in every school program they teach you shit you'll never need.

The closets ive ever come to using that procedure is hotpassing a backweld, and that whole weld gets gouged out anyway.

Your best weld is the middle inch or 2 of the 4th weld.
Thats what you want, your steps clearly defined

werd, the only time Ive ever used a 6010 or equivelant was as a hot pass covered by multiple passes with a 7018. You also get to drag the 7018 instead of repeating your weld/pool
 

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i prefer the half-moon when im welding, but thats my preference.

Do you use the tapping method with the stick? If so, get away from that shit IMO use the strike method, leaves the metal a little cleaner.

Looks good tho man, welding seems to be the way of the horse and buggy anymore, all the companies with bolt on everything kinda take away from it.
 

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Looks very good for your first welds IMO. When I read the title I was expecting some globs here and there on a piece of metal that had been sitting below the torch for a couple years. I personally use the "tap" method to start, but mostly because I always seem to blow splatter everywhere when I do the strike, but to each his own I suppose. The only thing I can tell you is to make sure you always have your setting correct before you start, and picture a layer of quarters spread out; like a stack of them layed down gently.
 

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also just cause your welds dont look pretty doesnt mean they arent strong. Id take a good penetrated weld over one that just looks pretty anyday. the filler rod could just be sitting ontop of the metal. When i took my cert classes for work i had to send off a bunch of welds to get tested for strength. Practice is key.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the compliments guys! The previous class had the welders set on 135.... which sounds like it might have been better, but our teacher told us to turn them up. Oh well, I'm looking forward to actually welding some pieces together :imo

Also thanks for the suggestions, they are greatly appreciated :shake:

EDIT: I was trying both methods, tapping and striking. Still debating on which I prefer. Time will tell I guess.
 

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i love stick welding i could do it all day. lookin good for your first ones bro, gotta admitt i dont remember my first being that good...then again that was a few years ago...
 

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werd, the only time Ive ever used a 6010 or equivelant was as a hot pass covered by multiple passes with a 7018. You also get to drag the 7018 instead of repeating your weld/pool
we also use 6010 to root thin wall pipe, completely different procedure though.

most of our thick(1" to 2 5/8"s ) pipe/vessels is mig root, with 7018 fill, and subarc cap.

I currently have my C pressure, subarc, and mig root tickets.

155 is a bit hot for that rod too. also the angle of your Vs indicate youre traveling to fast which is a direct result of excess heat. other then that you seem very consistent which is key in strong welds.
he didnt even state the size of rod nor the type of mechine used, and theres also arc force to consider..
 

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i
Do you use the tapping method with the stick? If so, get away from that shit IMO use the strike method, leaves the metal a little cleaner.
it.
yea, learn to strike from the start...
ive been repremanded for stray arcing on lethal sour service vessels.
we had to scrap a whole section(shell) because a 3rd party inspector caught it.
 

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Not bad for your first time Casey.:head:

Just by looking at them, and having 4 yrs experience welding, I'd say that all you really need to do is to slow down just a little. If you want to, try going in a circle with the rod rather than a U or an arc. Best thing to do is to play around with it and see what you can and can't do. Good luck!
 

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6010 to me is one of the eaiest rods to use and the "whip and pause" look looks awesome. I got my Flux-cored arc welding cert wiithin I think 10 classes-about hours each and I am approaching my stick certification. I'm competing in my schools Skills USA program this year.
 

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i dont know if it has been said yet but if it has been my bad. the reason they use the 7024 and the 6013 is cus these are the easiest to learn from. from what my ag teacher told us. the 7024 you pretty much just lay it on the metal and it does its thing. the 6013 is pretty much the same just need a little more movement, but like said above you will prob never use the 6013. i use a lot of the 6011 and 7018 when i need a stronger weld.

for your first time your doing really good, looks like ull pick it up just fine. from what it looks like in the pic your going to a little to fast. looks like you where whiping it. i personally like using the halfmoon or the o movement. the only time i use the whip is doing the vertical welds.
 

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When I was building jails... all we used was 6011 and had the heat up to 175dc...... we mostly welded 1/8 3/8 steel... Gotta move fast with stick or youll blow through it but for surface welds you can mostly just lay the rod on the metal and just feel it kinda melt away while slowly draging... Watch the puddle (easier to say hard to do lol) Practice Practice... I had to teach myself but its whatever... Oh ive only been welding for about 1.5 years now and am by no means a PRO... Looking good keep it going......
 
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