Joined
·
44 Posts
Just wanted to post up my project of mounting my 6" LED bars flush in the rear bumper assembly of my NNBS Silverado! Have wanted to do this for a while and now that the weather is turning around, I was able to get it done! Any questions don't hesitate to ask, and I'll have commentary for each picture below. Enjoy!
Planning out where I wanted it to sit in the bumper
That'll do!
Used the masking tape as my guideline, and VERY slowly and VERY carefully used my dremel cutoff wheel to cut out the size/shape I planned out. I chose the dremel vs. my standard air compressor cutoff wheel since the wheel is much thinner and a little easier to control (especially in the corners). You have to be especially careful where your lines meet, if you cut too far it won't look the greatest. Just take your time. You will also need to cut out part of the reinforcement brackets behind the bumper cap (you will see in pictures further down and I will point it out)
Test fitting the light bar into my newly cut hole.
After getting the fitment the way I liked on both sides, I smoothed all the edges inside and out, and masked off about a 1mm area around the cut lines to paint it. If it is left bare metal, it will rust.
After it dried, I'm left with this! Not at all noticeable, perfect!
(As stated above, here is where you can see the area of the reinforcement bracket I had to cut out behind the bumper cap) I laid the light bar in the hole and adjusted the angle I wanted it to point the light. My truck is lifted 10.5" so I needed to point it downward a bit. **IMPORTANT** When you're test fitting, put some tape on the metal edges of your bumper to keep it from scratching up your led bar. Learned this about half way through. Once they were where I wanted them, I attached the black brackets (or "feet") that come with the bar and left them loose, allowing them to rest against the inside of the bumper at the angle they needed to sit. I then tightened them down. I made a paper template of the angle between the bottom of the black bracket and the bumper so I could bend some silver metal brackets to fit between.
My original plan was to drill through the bottom of the bumper and mount the silver metal brackets with bolts, but I just couldn't stand the thought of having bolt heads be seen when I was finished. So, instead I went with JB Weld! I have had great luck with JB Weld in the past, so I figured it could hold this no problem. I traced around where my silver metal brackets touched the bumper, then went back with the dremel and scuffed the metal up on the bumper in that area, as well as on the bottom of the silver bracket to give the JB Weld a rougher surface to adhere to.
DONE! I then wired them up to come on as my reverse lights, as well as on a seperate switch to use as work lights and a tailgater deterrent system :troll3:
Night testing, lights off.
Lights ON!
Planning out where I wanted it to sit in the bumper
That'll do!
Used the masking tape as my guideline, and VERY slowly and VERY carefully used my dremel cutoff wheel to cut out the size/shape I planned out. I chose the dremel vs. my standard air compressor cutoff wheel since the wheel is much thinner and a little easier to control (especially in the corners). You have to be especially careful where your lines meet, if you cut too far it won't look the greatest. Just take your time. You will also need to cut out part of the reinforcement brackets behind the bumper cap (you will see in pictures further down and I will point it out)
Test fitting the light bar into my newly cut hole.
After getting the fitment the way I liked on both sides, I smoothed all the edges inside and out, and masked off about a 1mm area around the cut lines to paint it. If it is left bare metal, it will rust.
After it dried, I'm left with this! Not at all noticeable, perfect!
(As stated above, here is where you can see the area of the reinforcement bracket I had to cut out behind the bumper cap) I laid the light bar in the hole and adjusted the angle I wanted it to point the light. My truck is lifted 10.5" so I needed to point it downward a bit. **IMPORTANT** When you're test fitting, put some tape on the metal edges of your bumper to keep it from scratching up your led bar. Learned this about half way through. Once they were where I wanted them, I attached the black brackets (or "feet") that come with the bar and left them loose, allowing them to rest against the inside of the bumper at the angle they needed to sit. I then tightened them down. I made a paper template of the angle between the bottom of the black bracket and the bumper so I could bend some silver metal brackets to fit between.
My original plan was to drill through the bottom of the bumper and mount the silver metal brackets with bolts, but I just couldn't stand the thought of having bolt heads be seen when I was finished. So, instead I went with JB Weld! I have had great luck with JB Weld in the past, so I figured it could hold this no problem. I traced around where my silver metal brackets touched the bumper, then went back with the dremel and scuffed the metal up on the bumper in that area, as well as on the bottom of the silver bracket to give the JB Weld a rougher surface to adhere to.
DONE! I then wired them up to come on as my reverse lights, as well as on a seperate switch to use as work lights and a tailgater deterrent system :troll3:
Night testing, lights off.
Lights ON!