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Discussion Starter #3
i really couldnt tell you... what happened was i was out there running my mustang and something just didn't seem right with the times it was running... so i asked if i could make a pass in my truck and i assumed my truck would run low 15s. so after that i came to the conclusion that the clocks were probably off. my mustang was running about a half second off of what it normally runs.

my truck has 3.42s with a locking rear end so i think the 60ft was 2.20 are so.

what do setups like mine normally run?
 

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I am the Moderatonator!
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What year is your truck?
 

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My truck is SLOW!
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I think that you should be faster than that. My best was a [email protected] and I drive a 01 ECSB. All I have are CAI and programmer. Are you rollin' 20+ rims? If so, that might be your answer but I don't think that they would make you that much slower.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
cool... Yea it does seem slow to me which was why i was asking. Like i said the truck is all stock including wheels, tires, and all. I stalled it up to about 1500 i guess and nailed it and it didnt spin the tires at all, did bark a second though and ran that.

I think it is the track though. My mustang was running [email protected] last year and now it runs [email protected] and [email protected] on a 100shot. I was disgusted so i ran my truck for the hell of it to verify that the problem wasn't my car.

I don't use my truck as a performance vehicle so i can really care less if it would run 16s but if the track is indeed right i must have a problem somewhere.
 

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Line-X of San Antonio
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5,237 Posts
i ran a 16.02 with my 2002 ecsb before my nelson tune with heavy ass chrome 20s, KNN FIPK, and stock exhaust. not to mention about 300lbs worth of shit in my backseat.
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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99s are TURDS, I used to own one.

They have smaller cams, smaller injectors, False Knock like a mutha, etc.

16 sec doens't suprise me.

Also their WOT shift points are lower too, if it was manually shifted and held 2nd through the lights 15s are possible...just not too deep into them.
 

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In Denial
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280 Posts
Where were these runs at? LACR? If those times are uncorrected for elevation, I'd say they're about right for a '99.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm at sea level so thats about the best its gonna get.... oh well i guess i can't expect it to be a "performance" vehicle, i just expected more out of it. It tows my car decent though. Next time i'll buy a lightening and have the best of both worlds.
 

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Burning Rubber
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5.0 Hatch said:
I'm at sea level so thats about the best its gonna get.... oh well i guess i can't expect it to be a "performance" vehicle, i just expected more out of it. It tows my car decent though. Next time i'll buy a lightening and have the best of both worlds.

Why not supercharge the Truck? It'll be cheaper and faster that a lightning if you tune it and get rid of the 3.42's.
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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Chris99GMC said:
Why not supercharge the Truck? It'll be cheaper and faster that a lightning if you tune it and get rid of the 3.42's.


Get ready for driveline problems galore...

Lightnings come with a 3/4 ton 4R100 and ~10.5" rear end too. They are built to haulass and not break. Stick with the normal boltons for a reliable yet much quicker vehicle. There's guys locally to me making ~400rwhp/500rwtq with those truck with a STOCK exhaust still...

With that '99, I'd start with a check of the KR...I bet you have about 8° of KR. Solder in some resistors then tune it, you'll be highly shocked at that.

Gears will help a good deal also, as will a full exhaust, a mild cam, and a mild stall converter. TransGo and servos too. 300rwhp would make the truck very nice to drive and be good to the lil 4L60E.
 

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Hit Man X said:
Get ready for driveline problems galore...

Lightnings come with a 3/4 ton 4R100 and ~10.5" rear end too. They are built to haulass and not break. Stick with the normal boltons for a reliable yet much quicker vehicle. There's guys locally to me making ~400rwhp/500rwtq with those truck with a STOCK exhaust still...

With that '99, I'd start with a check of the KR...I bet you have about 8° of KR. Solder in some resistors then tune it, you'll be highly shocked at that.

Gears will help a good deal also, as will a full exhaust, a mild cam, and a mild stall converter. TransGo and servos too. 300rwhp would make the truck very nice to drive and be good to the lil 4L60E.
if you are going to do all that stuff, just save yourself the time and money and put the 80e in. Too many people have gone through several 60's and wish they would have done the swap. One guy on here actually bought a whole wrecked HD truck and swapped everything into his 1500 :head:
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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Hell I see the limits of the 4L60E in a truck and be durable is around 450rwhp, more than that and it's on borrowed time. Weight hurts us about as much as power. Once you get the internals not to break that damned 3-4 pack is a bitch.

N/A power is easier on the driveline anyway. A 6.0 pullout with a cam and all bolt ons should make close to 375-400rwhp.
 

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professional smartass
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plus cant use the auto transfercase on an 80 the only reason i wont fool with one. 99s are not as quick 16 flat is about right my 01 4.8 4wd runs 15.8 s with a 373 of course that is rednecked timed with a buddy since we have no track close
 

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In Denial
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BTW...nice to see ya again Hit Man! You're the reason that I came over to GMFS. :D

I missed ya man. :)
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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Scream said:
BTW...nice to see ya again Hit Man! You're the reason that I came over to GMFS. :D

I missed ya man. :)


:shake: Good to see ya here. The "other" place just began to get to me...it's all about money there, and the truck guys get shit for everything, it goes on and on and on.

The plethora of info there I miss but hell, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
 
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