[T-Bubba]

hahahahahaha..... wow man.. you clearly have no idea what your trying to get into..

why do you want 44s if you not going to wheel it?

why do you want to leave it 2wd?


and if you were wanting to do a 4link why wouldnt you just use coilovers?

and yes a 10bolt is to weak for 44s... wheeling or not.. the bearings cant handle that kind of rolling mass

 

[roadfool]

hahahahahaha..... wow man.. you clearly have no idea what your trying to get into..

why do you want 44s if you not going to wheel it?

why do you want to leave it 2wd?


and if you were wanting to do a 4link why wouldnt you just use coilovers?

and yes a 10bolt is to weak for 44s... wheeling or not.. the bearings cant handle that kind of rolling mass

haha i really dont, im not afraid to admit it.

i want 44s cuz i would like to have a large vehicle. sounds gay, but i really dont care, i can be an attention whore. i opted for coils instead because im not looking for performance just mainly comfort. i really dont understand what im looking at when researching coilovers too. and 2wd just cuz no need in having a driveshaft when its going to be on the road majority of the time. i dont plan on taking it places that id need a front driveshaft either. im not opposed to putting a transfercase in there just incase the time comes when i do though.

 

[roadfool]

this is the perfect stance for me.

 

[A/T Fab]

Well...

1) You will not find factory coils tall enough for this. Being driven on road the only 2 options I would consider are coilovers and links or leaf springs. The coilovers and links are more expensive by a long shot but also a lot nicer setup. We have built several of them and when properly designed they drive great on the road and perform even better offroad.

2) You really want a D60 and comparable (14 bolt) rear end. Even if you are not using 4x4 those tires will murder the wheel bearings etc... on anything smaller. You do not have to build the axles all crazy but at least start with a solid foundation.

3) I would at least set it up so you can add 4x4 when you decide that you want it by simply dropping in a t-case. Best to keep options open!

4) This is going to be really expensive. That truck there probably has 20k+ into building it like that. If you are really interested let me know, we can build a quote.

 

[Spugen]

just give it up man.

 

[roadfool]

Well...

1) You will not find factory coils tall enough for this. Being driven on road the only 2 options I would consider are coilovers and links or leaf springs. The coilovers and links are more expensive by a long shot but also a lot nicer setup. We have built several of them and when properly designed they drive great on the road and perform even better offroad.

2) You really want a D60 and comparable (14 bolt) rear end. Even if you are not using 4x4 those tires will murder the wheel bearings etc... on anything smaller. You do not have to build the axles all crazy but at least start with a solid foundation.

3) I would at least set it up so you can add 4x4 when you decide that you want it by simply dropping in a t-case. Best to keep options open!

4) This is going to be really expensive. That truck there probably has 20k+ into building it like that. If you are really interested let me know, we can build a quote.

cool i appreciate the info, what should i look for when i look at coilovers? what front axle should i look for? i have a buddy that has the same year suburban 4x4 but he blew the motor in, would that t-case work? with i the coils i can build a bridge on the axle to accomodate whatever height coils, i just didnt know if some were prefered over others.

 

[A/T Fab]

cool i appreciate the info, what should i look for when i look at coilovers? what front axle should i look for? i have a buddy that has the same year suburban 4x4 but he blew the motor in, would that t-case work? with i the coils i can build a bridge on the axle to accomodate whatever height coils, i just didnt know if some were prefered over others.

Personally I am a fan of Sway-A-Ways. Fox, King etc... are all very high quality as well. The big thing you need to decide is if you want a 2.0 or 2.5 diameter shock. The 2.5s are best for a fullsize but also are more expensive. After that you need to determine length and an aprox weight of the vehicle etc... to pick spring rates.

As long as you have the same transmission the case should work fine. I would just swap the entire tranny/t-case combo over.