This is exactly why I think the tuner must have the vehicle in front of them on a dyno in order to tune it properly. Send the chip back to him, and tell him what's wrong. He needs to know exactly what fuel pressure you're running though, so don't just start turning the screw on the regulator.
You will always have issues on the bottom end with the cam you chose. The MAP sensor, among others, is going crazy, trying to figure out what's wrong. As I said in your other post, you will always run rich at idle, and lean out on the top with that combo. If you adjust teh fuel pressure for a smooth idle, you're just leaning out the top end even more. If it's low enough that you have a smooth idle, it's dangerously low, and shouldn't be turned past 3000rpms unless you want to rebuild it again.
Do not touch the idle set screw on the TBI base. There is a cover over it for a reason. The idle is controlled by the ECM, and you should not try to tune it yourself when you don't realize the effects of your actions.
Did Lyndon ask for any data that you logged before he burned the chip? He needs this information to set the proper values in your tables. :read:
You will always have issues on the bottom end with the cam you chose. The MAP sensor, among others, is going crazy, trying to figure out what's wrong. As I said in your other post, you will always run rich at idle, and lean out on the top with that combo. If you adjust teh fuel pressure for a smooth idle, you're just leaning out the top end even more. If it's low enough that you have a smooth idle, it's dangerously low, and shouldn't be turned past 3000rpms unless you want to rebuild it again.
Do not touch the idle set screw on the TBI base. There is a cover over it for a reason. The idle is controlled by the ECM, and you should not try to tune it yourself when you don't realize the effects of your actions.
Did Lyndon ask for any data that you logged before he burned the chip? He needs this information to set the proper values in your tables. :read: