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LOL @ UR SWAG
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Its a Florida truck with 113,xxx miles, super clean compared to most mid-west trucks, its a crew cab long box with a black leather interior...Plans to start are to finish taking all the badges off, tow mirrors, tint, and exhaust. I was looking for something newer, like a lbz or higher miles lml but this was so clean and lower miles so I snapped it up.

-A few details in my sig

-more info to come soon



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My favorite pic, and the reason I bought the truck...
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sorry for the phone pics...
 

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LOL @ UR SWAG
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The support bearing on the driveshaft went bad last Thursday so I had to get the truck towed...I replaced it this morning...I'm not liking this two piece drive shaft so much
 

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Candy Corn Harvester...
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6,656 Posts
most of the ones around these parts have rocker panels that flap in the wind :nono: judging from how far the fronts stick out it must have an old fabtech on it
 

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LOL @ UR SWAG
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
most of the ones around these parts have rocker panels that flap in the wind :nono: judging from how far the fronts stick out it must have an old fabtech on it
Yeah it's a fabtech, I'm ordering 1.5 or 2 inch spacers for the rear soon
 

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LOL @ UR SWAG
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
tanks for all the compliments

does anyone have any opinions on weather or not these spacers in between the cross member and the support bearing are a good ide? they were in there when I replaced the bearing so I put them back, i'm assuming there to improve shaft angles for the lift. I just don't know if there a good idea or not.
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4,871 Posts
Great looking truck man.
 

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LOL @ UR SWAG
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I'm talking about the spacers above the bearing...I need the two piece shaft because it's a CCLB
 

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Texas Born & Raised!
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4,536 Posts
if you get a driveshaft made to proper length you wont need the spacer
I'm talking about the spacers above the bearing...I need the two piece shaft because it's a CCLB
That's what he is saying, if you get your driveshaft lengthened for the lift, then you can do away with the spacers.
 

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LOL @ UR SWAG
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I'm 90% sure it's plenty long enough without the spacers, but the angles will be differebt (steeper for the rear shaft)
 

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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8,527 Posts
if you get a driveshaft made to proper length you wont need the spacer
I'm talking about the spacers above the bearing...I need the two piece shaft because it's a CCLB
That's what he is saying, if you get your driveshaft lengthened for the lift, then you can do away with the spacers.
I'm 90% sure it's plenty long enough without the spacers, but the angles will be differebt (steeper for the rear shaft)
Kev is right, it's a length issue, not an angle issue. The carrier bearing spacers actually make the pinion angle worse, much like angled blocks do. They are simply a bandaid for a too-short drive shaft. Do a little reading up on pinion angles. Ideally you want the same angle at the output as the pinion, they should be parallel (the pinion typically points down a couple degrees to account for axle wrap, under throttle it becomes approximately parallel). The angle of the driveshaft itself is not important (as long as it doesn't go beyond the operating range of the u-joints), but rather the difference between the angles of the yokes/u-joints at either end of the driveshaft. The issue is that once you lift the rear, the angle of the driveshaft itself becomes steeper, which shortens it's effective length in the horizontal. (Think of the shaft as the hypotenuse on a right triangle). By angling the pinion up with angled blocks, or the output down with the bearing spacers, it effectively reduces the change in vertical, and therefore the angle of the shaft itself, thus effectively increasing the effective length in the horizontal back closer to factory. Doing so typically introduces u-joint vibrations, especially under throttle and increased u-joint and carrier bearing wear. In the case of the carrier bearing spacers, you are introducing the potential for vibrations and increased wear at 3 locations, the pinion, the carrier bearing, and the transmission output u-joints, vs the two locations an angled block causes-the pinion and the carrier bearing u-joints (or the pinion and the transmission output if one piece shaft).

With that said, ideally having the rear section of your driveshaft lengthened a few inches would fix the issue and rid you of the spacers.

The reason lift companies include a band-aid solution of angled blocks or a carrier bearing spacer is simple:it's cheap. It's much easier to just cast an angle on the blocks or include a $5 spacer than it is to tell the customer they need to buy a $300+ driveshaft, their sales would drop. It's much easier to sell the band-aid solution to 95% of the buyers that would never notice, and the other 5% they can tell them basically what I just told you, or that their truck is a "special situation" and requires the lengthened driveshaft.

Truth be told, the angle difference is not that great, and typically vibrations are only noticed under throttle when the pinion twists up out of an acceptable range.

With all that said, no, I don't like the way your spacers are made. Most are made from a 1"-1.5" piece of square tubing or channel. Honestly, that area does not typically see very much stress (though it does absorb quite a bit of vibrations from the u-joints), we all know atypical things happen, and I would feel much better with the square tubing, or at least the channel style spacer. It would take 10 minutes to fab and replace.


Truck looks great though, makes me miss both of mine. Always said if my white truck would have been a crew long duramax, or my burgundy CCLB dmax a 4wd I would have kept it.

Definitely get 2 or 2.5" spacers out back asap. I went with 2", but would have been happier with 2.5", but it wasn't worth buying new ones.
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