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Been a few years since I've posted in here. Truck has been through a few different tire/wheels lately, and put in a 3" leveling kit instead of the 2.5" I previously had

22x12 AF and 33s


22x12 Fuel forged and 33s


And now, back on factory 20s and 35" toyos
 

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You mean to say a 3 inch in the front, lowering kit in the rear. truck looked good on forces and fuels, not so much though on the stocks. Then again, I’m a more wheel less tire kinda guy
 

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You mean to say a 3 inch in the front, lowering kit in the rear. truck looked good on forces and fuels, not so much though on the stocks. Then again, I’m a more wheel less tire kinda guy
Well I have always ran it with no rear block since i've owned it so that isn't helping lol especially after i raised the front more. I also liked the forged look a lot more, but plan on making this a permanent hunting truck here soon and buying something a little newer. And forged are hard to keep clean when its daily driven
 

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Well I have always ran it with no rear block since i've owned it so that isn't helping lol especially after i raised the front more. I also liked the forged look a lot more, but plan on making this a permanent hunting truck here soon and buying something a little newer. And forged are hard to keep clean when its daily driven
I agree, non coated wheels are a pita, especially driving full time on them.
 

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RC 2.5 level with only the front spacers in. Kept the OE block in the rear. Fenders are both at 40" with 275/60r20 (33x11) and 20x9 +0 offset. Did a mini norcal mod so I could keep the mudflaps

 

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n. fil-dert.
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Funny how it looks like it has lean or rake depending on where the photo is taken from. Looks nose high in the first pic but not the second.
 

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Funny how it looks like it has lean or rake depending on where the photo is taken from. Looks nose high in the first pic but not the second.
yeah its weird. Fenders are dead even and when I put a level on the box side its dead even in the bubble lol
 

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n. fil-dert.
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