I just signed up to say I did this mod but I did have to swap the master cylinder. My truck is 08 wt model and it did not have traction control. I changed to the master cylinder that does have have that option and it solved my pedal travel. I had already power bled the original master and all the wheels multiple times. The larger bore 1.25" vs my old 1.125" made the difference. Overall I dont feel a huge difference in stopping power. The back tires lock up for sure if you slam the brake now. I did it because the drums have been giving me ongoing problems ever since I bought it in 2013. I had to buy a 3/16 brake line kit from amazon and I used the newer style double flaring tool. It took me awhile to figure out you have to smooth the flare when your done or it can tear up the mating seat in the brake hose and have leaks. That fitting should screw all the way in by hand and then use a wrench to tighten up the last bit, if you have to use wrenches to get it going something is wrong. Also gm used a plastic coating so the tube nuts wont go on unless you drill them out larger. In my case I just went ahead and formed new steel lines. The hose fitting size is standard 3/8 24. I used some rubber and a small c clamp to hold the junction above the rear axle closed while I bent and flared the lines. I also had to buy a acdelco emergency brake kit so I could get the rubber seals and the parking brake levers. The part number was 179-2236, the pic shows the s hook type but the levers that it came with I think fit the d type cables. One last thing, the sheet metal backing plates I got would rub the rotor in spots. I turned the rotor and push or pulled in different spots to find where it was rubbing, super annoying! Hope this helps someone save a lot of time and frustration.