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Discussion Starter #1
Here we go again guys. As is apparently pretty common with obs style trucks my doors were starting to sag. The passenger side was in the worse shape of the two. I really had to slam it to get it to close. As well as the hinge bushings being shot my rollers that the door springs ride on were getting rough as well. When shutting the door from being all the way open i would get a nice little pop as that roller would move. I visited ckresto.com and ordered 2 88-98 door hinge rollers (Item #: CTP-23204A) for $22 a piece, an 88-98 door pin and bushing kit (Item #: CTP-BP5-K) for $21 that did both doors, and then 2 88-98 Door Strikers (Item #: CTP-22008B) for $5 a piece.

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For this job i would recommend having a buddy on hand. Without some sort of door holding jig i would definitely say this is a two man job. I had my father on hand to help out for this one.

So here is what we are starting with.
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Pull out the door spring compressor. I was only able to find this guy at napa. Part #770-3818. I payed $20.
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Put it on your spring as wide as you can squeeze it up there and tighten it up compressing the spring.
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Heres how you look without the spring.
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I went ahead then and removed the kick panel to fish out the wires for the power locks, windows, and speaker.
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There are three plugs per side. I would assume one for the windows, one for the locks, and then one for the factory speaker wires.
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Now we can go ahead and start thinking about getting those old pins out to remove the door. The pins have these little retaining rings on their ends. I guess these serve to stop the pins from backing out. I bent the rings up to get them out of the grooves on the pins.
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I didn't get pictures because it happened pretty quick but then i just took a pair of channel locks and put one jaw on the end of the pin and the other on the hinge and squeezed the pin out. It takes a bit of force because the other end of the pins are basically press fit into the hinges. They should pop free. At this point have your buddy ready to hold up the door. We used a little stool under the edge of the door to take most of the weight.

Before you go and rip the door out though it would be a good idea to pull the wires you disconnected earlier out through the body and pull loose the rubber loom so nothing gets hooked.
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Discussion Starter #2
So now what? Well for me it was time to get the old roller assembly out of there for replacement. The bitch of this is that the factory basically inserts the roller into the hinge holes and then mushrooms the head to keep it in place. I ended up taking a dremel tool to the head with a cut-off wheel to eat it up enough to drive on through.
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Then i drove it out towards the ground with a punch and hammer.

You'll also notice i taped up the area before i went to work with the dremel. In case i got a little wild this would provide me some buffer between the paint.
Now to insert the new door roller. This was tricky. The first attempt was a no go. I guess the ckresto part had a slightly larger diameter than the factory pin because it would not go no matter how much the hammer was used. I pulled out the dremel again with a sanding drum and enlarged and cleaned out the hole just a little bit. Then at the advice of my father i put the roller in the freezer for 30 minutes thinking it would shrink a little and go in easier. I really think it helped.
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When i felt the hole was large enough i ran in and grabbed the now cold roller and slipped it up in their quickly and hammer it home. Worked like a charm.
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I skipped a few steps but you can now drive out the old bushings and drive in the new ones.
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Now is a good time to throw out there that for the upper hinge the bushings are in the part of the hinge attached to the body. For the lower hinge the bushings are in the part of the hinge attached to the door. All bushings need to be driven in from the outside of the hinge as is shown in the above pictures. My father actually installed the bushings in my drivers door the reverse way. He drove them in from the inside of the hinge bucket. I didn't catch this when we were putting the door back on and consequently broke the two bushings. A quick trip to the auto parts store and i had two more bushings. No harm, no foul.

So at this point you have your new roller in and your new bushings installed so you are about ready to put the door back on. As with the roller previously, i put the hinge pins in the freezer before hand to get them cold and hopefully shrink them some.
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Once again this part is a two man job. Grab the door and line it up properly with the hinge buckets and insert the pins. On one end of the pins there are knurles(sp.) that basically give the pins a press fit in one side of the hinge buckets. With the pins in take a hammer or pair of channel locks and drive the pins on down home.

Now you can compress your spring and put it back into the door.
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Now repeat for the other side if necessary. It took my father and i about 3 hours to do this job. As usual the second door was much easier than the first. I would also recommend only doing one door at a time so you can jump over to the still intact side to see exactly how the pins and bushings go. I had to do this a few times.

And just for kicks.
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Weird Turns Pro.
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nice write up Matt! I need to do this as well, my passenger side door is fucked!

I'll get around to grouping all the write ups you've been doing lately and put them in the master lists. :head:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
nice write up Matt! I need to do this as well, my passenger side door is fucked!

I'll get around to grouping all the write ups you've been doing lately and put them in the master lists. :head:
Dude, that would be excellent. I had been wondering if we could get the admins to make some sort of sub-forum in the maintenance forum just for write-ups. Do you have a sticky somewhere with all the write-ups from everyone?
 

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Dude, that would be excellent. I had been wondering if we could get the admins to make some sort of sub-forum in the maintenance forum just for write-ups. Do you have a sticky somewhere with all the write-ups from everyone?
yeah. I have one in the interior forum, exterior forum, and engine and performance. i should add your intake manifold gasket swap on the engine one if I havent already
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea i think that pop is from the little metal arm connected to the door the rolls on the roller jumping over its first hump instead of rolling. It used to drive me nuts having the door pop all the time.

On my passenger side i could actually grab the door out by the latch and lift up on it and hear the pins moving around in the hinges. I actually left out the install of my striker bolts. I haven't done them yet but i might just let that go.

Thanks for the kind words guys.
 

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damn....wish i knew about that spring compressor when i did my doors.....shit, I had to use massive amounts of really thin bailing wire to keep the spring compressed, then cut it off once I got it back in place....

Do you think changing out those strikers would help much, because after changing everything else, my door still doesn't always latch all the way the first time I shut it, unless i get a good swing on it...and i'm pretty sure the door isnt twisted.

very nice write up, btw.
 

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If you door does like mine did and still doesnt line up just right after the new pins/bushing you and lift up on it to slightly bend the hinge up.
 

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i should do my drivers door. its a little bit saggy.


i would drive around for a while with no door though :jester:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Do you think changing out those strikers would help much, because after changing everything else, my door still doesn't always latch all the way the first time I shut it, unless i get a good swing on it...and i'm pretty sure the door isnt twisted.

very nice write up, btw.
You know i actually never got around to installing the new strikers i got but i think i have read somewhere that they are semi-adjustable. Kind of like a hole for attaching a fender, the hole is bigger than the bolt to allow for the striker to move around. Maybe it just needs some adjusting?
 

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nice write up man. These obs doors are heavy as hell, mine sag.. I bet most people with obs trucks have this problem.
 

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on my fathers truck a chevy mechainc helped us do it and after the new bushings he took a jack under the door and lifted the door till it lined up right... it looked really bad at first and now the door lines up right
 

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what might ashop charge for this process? I need it done bad but I know I dont have the tools know how or help I would need.
 
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awesome write up, but you have one of the most amazing looking "stockish" Z's I have seen. Everything goes together really well and looks mean to not have a huge lift and everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
what is the color name for your truck?
Its called storm grey metallic. The truck is technically a 99' model year but i am sure the color was the same for 98's.




awesome write up, but you have one of the most amazing looking "stockish" Z's I have seen. Everything goes together really well and looks mean to not have a huge lift and everything.
Thanks bro.:shake:

When i can get an additional means of transportation it'll probably follow in the footsteps of your tahoe.

Thanks for the kind words dudes. Now i just need to get these things in the write-up sticky in the technical forum.
 
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