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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to site and to Chevy world. I've searched but find alot about the tb on the nbs. I just bought a 98 ex cab gmc Z71. If I replaced shocks how high can I crank tb's on stock keys? Also will I need new cab bolts to get alignment correct?

Thanks
Mac
 

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get a set of RC bars if you plan on keeping stock keys...actually get them regardless
do a search for them
You can also get ford keys which allow to up to 3" of crank with RC bars
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply, i have seen that rc makes a 3" lift kit with bars add-a-leafs, and a-arm, is there a problem with the factory a-arms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so don't lift it with the keys and bars or at all, I will be going off road, more mud than rock.
 

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cracker ass fantastic
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when running a really cranked front end you will have more problems with your steering components, at least in my experience...with an obs you are pretty limited on how much you can crank anyway since there isnt much down travel until u hit the droop stop, though it probably isnt that great of an idea you can trim some off the stop to give you a little more room to crank and a better ride
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks again, i'm slow but think i'm following, either body lift & or trim, or use a drop axle lift?
 

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Swamper Brotherhood
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whats your plans for the truck, is it just gunna be used for play??? Also if you want to clear just like 33s get rc bars with a body lift. I am clearing 32 ssr which messure 32.7, about the same as a normal 33 with just cranked bars , but it rides like a tank and i rub a little
 

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Timbrage: Engage
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thanks for the reply, i have seen that rc makes a 3" lift kit with bars add-a-leafs, and a-arm, is there a problem with the factory a-arms?
I had that kit on my '94, good kit, the upper control arms are shaped differently than stock, make sure you have plenty of hardware laying around, make sure that before you start disassembly you have everything you need, I got hosed and they didn't send me a bunch of nuts and bolts


I liked the kit, I got my '94 in sept. '05, installed the lift kit in january, then sold it in December, put somewhere in the area of 22,000 miles on it last year, 15k of which were lifted, no issues with the kit other than needing a set of upper control arm bushings at like 7,000
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here again thanks for everyone's input. I use the truck for commuting 60 miles a day. Then I like playing on the weekend. I want it taller but want it usable. Most of the time were I go It would not be a good idea to break something (no cell service, closest house is 10 miles). So I want it to be able to put up with some work and play.

Thanks
Mac
 

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Here again thanks for everyone's input. I use the truck for commuting 60 miles a day. Then I like playing on the weekend. I want it taller but want it usable. Most of the time were I go It would not be a good idea to break something (no cell service, closest house is 10 miles). So I want it to be able to put up with some work and play.

Thanks
Mac
I know I will probably get flamed here, but I've been there done that...and here is my honest opinion of your options. FYI I used to be a mechanic and do my own building as well, so I do have some knowledge to back this up.

On the OBS trucks the upper A arm only has a limited amount of room to go before it will hit the bump stop which is steel and welded to the frame, so there is no "trimming" to be done. With the aftermarket upper A arms, this is trivial and a waste of money. You can crank your factory keys with your factory a arms and max out your down travel to the point where your factory axles will self destruct. So why take them further by spending a bunch of money that will only make things worse. There is no cheap way of lifting an IFS truck unless you get a free suspension lift or do a body lift....end of story. These "green keys" and other gimicks are that and ony that...a gimick. Your factory keys can be maxed out like I stated above without changing anything. The only improvement you get from a set of "green keys" is the fact that you will have more bolt showing after they are cranked....this gains you absolutley squat, except being able to see more threads???!!!
If you are planning on doing some medium offroading and torquing on it while in the mud and such, don't go too far on the torsion bar cranking. In my honest opinion if you can, put in a suspension lift (no larger than a 6.5") and keep the axles at a decent angle....if you can't afford it (which most can't) do a body lift and a set of 33's....or even add a set of cutouts with the body lift and have more than enough room for a set of 33's on a set of 10" wide wheels with around a 4 and 7/16" backspacing (16" and up usually).

I realize in a perfect world that it would be nice to lift an IFS OBS truck cheaply and easily....but it just can't happen and have function as well. If you have no plans what so ever of putting it in 4x4..then by all means, crank em up and it will ride like a tank, but will be higher....and also tear up your front end parts as well.


....just my .05 cents, keep the change. :crazy:
 

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Bigger, Longer, and UnCut
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What he ^^^^^ is talking about is when you crank your keys up your front axles start to angle down and if they go too far will snap, most likely to happen when going over pretty rough terrain when your wheel max's out its down travel. Also when you crank you take out some of the down travel and intern will ride rougher.
Putting Ford keys in lets you crank it up even farther, which will make these issues even worse.
The RC bars replace worn out stock bars that have sagged from the weight of the truck over the years. Some people say these have a different spring rate which will make it ride better, this I am not sure of.

The best thing to do for a lift is an actual suspension lift, most of us cant afford those though. Good Luck and welcome to the site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks guys on all the good info, I rather drop $1600 on a proper lift than $300 on parts the will cause more $ to be spent on parts. Any recommendations on brand of lift (6" ish) is recommended, and hope that doesn't start the battle of the brands.
 

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I had a Rancho (to begin with) hated it.......moved to a Trailmaster, and it was a decent lift, no complaints.....but I was wanting the Dick Cepek 6.5 before I solid swaped mine.....a buddy of mine has the Fabtech one and he loves it, and it seems to be a very well built kit. Everything on the lift is beefy.....BUT! It sticks your front wheels way the hell out and looks like ass in my opinion.

I hate the lifts that stick your front wheels way out.....just looks goofy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm also not found of the front tires sticking out, does the dc 6.5" do that also? is it out now? and est price on the trailmaster and the dc?

Thanks
 

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I'm also not found of the front tires sticking out, does the dc 6.5" do that also? is it out now? and est price on the trailmaster and the dc?

Thanks


I don't believe so, but I've never owned one either. Look to see if they supply an axle spacer which will be an aluminum round looking thing around 2" thick and the size of your axle stub.

As for pricing....I would just call around locally or check some buisness' on ebay. I'm up North in Canada, so my pricing would do you no good what so ever.

I also highly suggest looking at the "REALIFT" torsion bar relocators as well. These move your torsion bars up and out of the way and you don't have to install that dropdown bracket for the torsion bars either. If you look on their site, you'll see my truck the way it was last year with my Trailmaster lift, a 3" body lift, REALIFT torsion bar relocators and a set of 315/75/16 (35's) baja claw radials. It will give you an idea of what the setup would look like all done and you can see the difference in the torsion bar relocator clearance and appearance. Well worth the couple hundred bucks in my opinion. And they worked flawlessly on and offroad hands down.
 

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bitter southern gun owner
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knuckle lifts suck period :read:

if your doing a ifs lift in the 6in range dick 6.5 is the way to go

alot of people run superlift 6-7.5 no complaints but im not a big fan of it


either way you slice the cake its still IFS
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks everyone on your assistance, Since this is a truck I pulled out of a field not running for 2k. It will be some time before I spend the same is not more on a lift. It's principle of it I guess. But thank you for stopping me from trying to do a cheap (homemade) lift that could cause problems down the road.

Thanks
Mac
 

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Swamper Brotherhood
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if you lift IFS i'd go with the dick cepek..... thats the only lift i'd buy for my tahoe if I dont do a sas..... you should be ok with say a 6 inch and 35s unless you go raw dog it in mud or go in rocks and shit
 
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