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alright, my turn for questions....

i really want to get into painting parts myself...im not talking about whole vehicles, just things like colormatching and interior stuff....most of my friends are into colormatching and all this good stuff like me....

i have the basic idea for prepping parts, i just need to find out what kind of guns i need....now, would getting by using spray can filler primer and wetsanding it be good enough or should i look into getting a primer spraying gun? should i get a gun so i can add some sort of flexing agent to the primer?

for the paint itself, would something like this be enough to paint and clear coat the paint? http://www.spraygundepot.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=finishstart.bbx&custnum=WEB-CUST++&password=&sesid=0305190352
its not fancy but just to get me started...

another question...as far as air compressors go, i have one on my truck and i have a plug on one of the ports...the tank pressure is 150psi at max...is that too much pressure or do the guns come with a pressure regulator so it will limit the amount of pressure?

thanks
 

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Yeah the gun will work, just remember you get what you pay for. As far as the compressor, you will need a regulator. I seen one on the page you had for the paint gun. I hope you are not painting nothing very big because it take a lot of air. I like to run my gun as around 30 psi for basecoat and 45-50 for clear. Dont remember exactly just do it by sound. But that will give you a general idea
 

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GET ME A WHOPPER
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kandyn20s said:
Yeah the gun will work, just remember you get what you pay for. As far as the compressor, you will need a regulator. I seen one on the page you had for the paint gun. I hope you are not painting nothing very big because it take a lot of air. I like to run my gun as around 30 psi for basecoat and 45-50 for clear. Dont remember exactly just do it by sound. But that will give you a general idea

whoa, what? 30 psi for base is good, but you shouldnt be spraying clear at anything more than 25 psi. DuPont premier recommends 15 psi for clear...
 

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Well its just what you like, with my paint gun I feel it lays down better at that high psi. With the Sharpe gun I got. Like I said, if you got an HLVP gun your right, you can spray at a lower pressure. Its all in what you got and what you like. I do get a lot of overspray put the paint lays down killer. I just painted the Z06 spoiler on the vette and tryed a low pressure like you are saying and honestly it turned out like shit. I fixed it though but each has his own. Its just trial and error. What you may like I may not.
 

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im not planning on big things, just colormatching and stuff...but those guns are decent right? im not trying to go professional....thanks by teh way
 

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remember that if your gonna spray the interior that most of those parts are plastic... every thought of armour all has to be gone. and if you don't use plastic adhesive promoter then your gonna stand a good chance of your new custom interior flaking off in your lap... good luck
 

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Is it best to use some kind of plastic primer first them paint it? I know you said plastic adhesive promoter also what kind is the best do you guys think to use?
 

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A walking ball of wax
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Discussion Starter #49
deltaforcechevy said:
Is it best to use some kind of plastic primer first them paint it? I know you said plastic adhesive promoter also what kind is the best do you guys think to use?
BullyDog adhesion promoter.
 

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I know a lot of you guys are saying to use the same brand for base and clear, but there is a custom paint shop around here that uses PPG base and Transtar clear. Their stuff has turned out awesome and even won several best paint at shows. I don't know if any of you have tried Transtar clear, but it seems to be working well for this shop. I have not heard of any lifting or other problems.

http://www.tat-co.com/version2/products_categories.asp?catid=4
 

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Zinotti Motorsports
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BullyDog adhesion promoter.
amen to that, we use that on anything plastic around here...it's even supposed to work great on weird plastics like on atv's
 

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A walking ball of wax
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Discussion Starter #52
Well I'm just painting with a gun for the first time, I finally found the balls to do it :lol:. It's a whole freakin' different world, I splattered some clear running to low of a PSI so hopefully it will settle when it flashes and then I'll blend it in, ahhh:evil:.
 

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I use ppg and sikkens. but i would get some adhesion permoter and a good primer because plastic is a bitch to get clean enuff and to get paint to stick to and last.
 

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i rarely use an adeshion promoter. if you use quality urethanes, they are usually plenty flexible, and if you prep the plastic correctly. you will have no issues.

i also use Transtar Classic 2:1 clear over everything. HOK, Spies, etc. its good stuff...dries REALLY fast, so if you're new....you might want to go with something that dries a little slower.
 

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GET ME A WHOPPER
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I know a lot of you guys are saying to use the same brand for base and clear, but there is a custom paint shop around here that uses PPG base and Transtar clear. Their stuff has turned out awesome and even won several best paint at shows. I don't know if any of you have tried Transtar clear, but it seems to be working well for this shop. I have not heard of any lifting or other problems.

http://www.tat-co.com/version2/products_categories.asp?catid=4
most paints are now made similar enough that you can mix and match, just dont try anything too different.

Well its just what you like, with my paint gun I feel it lays down better at that high psi. With the Sharpe gun I got. Like I said, if you got an HLVP gun your right, you can spray at a lower pressure. Its all in what you got and what you like. I do get a lot of overspray put the paint lays down killer. I just painted the Z06 spoiler on the vette and tryed a low pressure like you are saying and honestly it turned out like shit. I fixed it though but each has his own. Its just trial and error. What you may like I may not.

HVLP = high volume LOW PRESSURE. most people nowadays spray with theses guns, and the picture i saw is a grav. feed gun. i used to spray with a binks model 7, and for a suction feed gun higher pressures are required.


as far as gun cleaning goes, you should always take your guns apart and clean with a brush and thinner. I usually spray thinner through the gun as a preliminary cleaning, but you can never get it spotless by doing that alone. Harbor freight has brush kits for cleaning guns for very cheap. just be careful when dealing with packings. most packings now are made of hard plastics that can withstand caustic materials, but i dont take my chances.


i guess i should pay more attention to this thread :pepper: keep the advice and questions coming
 

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pudding hatch retrofitter
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where does everyone chose to get their OEM paints? I am shopping out some PPG for my silverado's OEM. I know my paint code, there are 6 different shades of it though so I need to find some sample cards too zero it in.
 

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draggin the dimes
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hmmmmmm, i saw alot of info in this thread that was kinda iffy.


the pressure u run depends alot on the gun u r using.

i used an iwata gun for clear that runs at 19 psi, and a sata for clear that ran at 45-50. both gravity fed guns.


99 % of the time ur paint will not be a perfect match to the paint code. and like someone stated, there r variants to colors and some colors have up to 10 variants.


there is alot of info about painting in here but not much about prepping for paint. u can be the best painter but if what u r painting is not prepped correctly, it will not come out looking good.



i think 400 grit is to coarse to paint over unless u r gonna seal it then paint it. the coarsest i would spray my base over is 600, maybe 500 but usually 600.

sandscratches may show through 500 if its not sealed.



if or when u spray primer, never leave a hard line, that is a huge no no. u should gradually feather out ur primer when spraying it. if u leave a hard line it will show up in ur paint unless u sand it all the way down and then reprime over the hard line, in which some cases it may still be visible in paint.




thats just a few little things i guess i could share with u guys, i still have alot to learn but i have dealt with most of that stuff and seen it first hand and learned from most of it
 

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A few questions I have for everyone. My base is factory red right now, I shaved a ton of things and have a bit of bodywork done andnow have primer to lay down. I have U-POL hi- build I was gonna use. I wasn't planning on priming the entire truck just what needs it. I pla on still keeping the truck red but just a differnt variation. Can I shoot PPG over the U-POL? or should I use something else? Is it ok that I'm not priming the whole truck
 

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Fa Kin Su Pah
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ive never heard of u-pol primer so i couldnt tell you on that.

as far as not priming the whole truck you will be fine.

if you plan on sealing the truck sand the primer with 320 and the rest of the truck with 600 or 800

youll want to seal the spots you sanded with 320 then might as well put base over the whole truck then clear.


as far as mixing different kinds of base and clear
just to let everyone know ppg makes tons of different clears
PPG
Omni
Shop Line
all of those can go over ppg or shop line base. Ive never seen a paint job mess up because of 2 different brands. its only going to mess up if your doing something wrong

i use sata paint guns, they are expensive but will last forever if you take care of them.
also people saying that you need 3+ guns to do it right is not true. as long as you clean your gun when your finished you will be fine.

i have a sata 90 for sealer/base and a sata rp for clear

i used the sata 90 forever spraying everything and never had a lick of trouble, i got the rp for a steal thats why i have it.

my 2 guns
90
Aspire006.jpg

rp
Aspire010.jpg


i hate to keep going on and on but if you paint properly you wont need to wet sand and buff. i hate it that people make it sound like you HAVE to buff it to make it look good.

this is straight out of the gun. i dont buff anything i paint unless it has a piece of trash in it or a sag/run
taillight003.jpg


dang thought about something else for you guys
PPG prices. these are rough now
PPG 2042 $250 gallon for clear and hardener
Shopline 620 $60-70 gallon for clear and hardener
Shopline 660 $100-120 gallon for clear and hardener
Im not sure the exact name but i think its dcu4000 its around $150 gallon for hardener and clear

also donnie if you need anything else as far as materials let me know and ill take care of you
 
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