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Discussion Starter #1
there any big differences in the 2 such as which lasts longer or shines better etc? which is best to use
 

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Here is what is on advance auto parts webpage:

The car-care aisle in the average auto-parts store has a mind-boggling array of products. The wax section alone offers products formulated for new paint, old paint, clear-coated paint, scratched paint, oxidized paint—just about everything but roller-applied paint. Many of these products claim to restore routinely maintained paint to its original factory finish (when used as directed). So how do you know which wax is best for your car? We'll attempt to boil it down to the basics.
Synthetic Vs. Natural

Thanks to modern chemistry, car care products are easier to use than ever. In the olden days, rubbing/polishing compounds were used solely for scratch- and swirl-removal. Then paste wax was hand-applied Karate Kid style to protect the finish and bring out its shine.

These days, waxing and polishing can be "engineered" into the same step. Modern polishes eliminate fine scratches in addition to "conditioning" the paint by restoring certain oils. These characteristics combine to improve the overall gloss and protection/toughness of the finished job. (Conventional wisdom for dark-colored cars is to use a non-abrasive polishing product followed by a pure wax to produce superior results as opposed to a one-step polish/wax process). Better yet, liquid waxes can be formulated to withstand the heat generated by orbital buffers; paste waxes tend to melt and burn under high-friction conditions. In other words, superior paint-care results can be achieved in a fraction of the time it used to take.
Liquid Vs. Paste

This debate overlaps the synthetic/natural decision. In general, liquid waxes are synthetic (created in the laboratory) while paste waxes can either be "natural" (as in originating in nature) or a combination of natural wax and synthetic additives such as polishing polymers.

Paste wax is still preferred by many purists (those guys with handlebar moustaches who wear British touring caps). Because most paste waxes should only be applied by hand, the process allows passionate enthusiasts to literally pet their pride-and-joys while making the paint shine.

Pro detailers tend to prefer liquid waxes, which can either be applied by hand or machine. Time is money, and a detailing pro wielding a high-speed buffer can finish multiple vehicles in the time it takes the mustachioed purist to complete his hood, trunk and both fins. On a related note, purists contemplating making the jump to an electric buffer should cut their teeth on a lower-speed model (and ideally on someone else's car).

For the same brand and style of wax, liquid and paste produce comparable results (protection and shine) and offer the same longevity between waxings. Paste waxes generally cost more up front but can be a better value—a tin of paste usually yields more than twice as mnay waxings as a bottle of liquid.
Colored Wax

Infomercials tout the benefits of newfangled colored waxes that are intended to conceal scratches by filling in the offending areas with like-hued wax. But as many of the old-school car-care companies point out, literally thousands of colors of automotive paints are introduced each year, making an exact colored-wax match highly unlikely. Also, most modern cars have clear coats. One well-known manufacturer of car-care products claims that using colored wax over clearcoat is like putting shoe polish on your windshield.
Carnauba

Some waxes tout carnauba as the secret to their success. Carnauba wax is actually a resin produced by the palm tree Copernicia Cerifera (commonly known as the carnauba tree). The hardest natural wax known, it protects the trees' leaves from harsh South American tropical-rainforest conditions.

Pure carnauba is as hard as a brick, so petroleum distillates and mineral spirits are added to soften the wax—above about 30% concentration, carnauba is too stiff to use as an automotive wax. Many name-brand wax manufacturers use only #1 yellow-grade carnauba, which is the highest grade available and also the most expensive. Incredibly durable, carnauba dries to a deep, natural shine (compared to beeswax, paraffin and synthetic waxes, which can become cloudy).

These days, choosing car wax often boils down to convenience. Fans of the by-hand wax on/wax off method can pick between liquid or paste wax. Buffer masters are best served with liquid waxes. Swirls and fine scratches can either be removed in a separate step using a product designed for that purpose or in a single step with a wax that's formulated with its own polishers.

The bottom line is that using name-brand products as directed on the label should produce that wet, glossy look. However, no car-care product can bring dead-and-decomposing paint back to life. If the wax won't buff out (because it's trapped in pits and pores), it's time to re-paint the vehicle.
 

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DemoN said:
i'll never let an electric buffer touch my paint
It's safe to use. I use a Porter Cable DA buffer. About the only way you can hurt the paint would be to drop it on it!! Plus I'd hate to get swirls out by hand!
 

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Shit yeah I can wax my truck with one coat of Tech NXT in about 30 mins!!
 
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