[DirtMafia]

So as many of you know I gave the ole' 2500 the forced treatment and its been running great! Until tonight....
I was on the freeway doing a 75% throttle roll and the check engine light starts blinking, I let off and pull over to investigate the problem, the truck was struggling to run and running very rough. I limped it home and started going through things that I thought could be the problem. I re-torqued all 10 manifold bolts, I checked all header bolts, I check all plugs and wires, I even checked the 02 sensors and cleaned the MAF to no success. I start the truck and it idles poorly and stutters when light throttle is applied. Im writing to ask your guys opinions? I really cant drive the truck and going to school is hard with no vehicle. There is a slight ticking noise but it could just be my imagination as it hasnt gotten any louder since this happened. I dont have a OBD 2 scan tool handy and Ive checked all the sensors I could think of (IAT, MAP ETC...) Im not losing any coolant anywhere, and there is no fluids out of their respected places. All Intake couplings are tight and in their correct places
Its been a really long day.
:down::banghead:

any ideas? Ive been running it for the last week with no problems, until tonight.

 

[matthimself]

post up on pt.net and did you ever get a wideband? or have any idea what a/f is ?

 

[shsportsfan12]

Isn't there a way to figure out the code it's throwing through the blinking light?

Take your bike down to Kragen's and see if they'll let you rent a tool. Not sure what else is down there and within biking distance.

Solidify me a ride home and you can borrow the honda :read: I've been driving the truck everyday for the last week anyways.

Give me a call tomorrow and we'll talk :read:

 

[Kevin]

you need to get that code read.

how loud is this ticking noise? i hope you didn't break a spring, dropping the valve into the cylinder... :uhoh:

 

[1989K1500]

Blinking CEL should be a misfire.

Your running NGK TR6 plugs right? And you just put them in when you put the radix on?

 

[DirtMafia]

Take your bike down to Kragen's and see if they'll let you rent a tool. Not sure what else is down there and within biking distance.

They cant let you rent an OBD 2 scanner in Ca or FL for whatever dumb reason ..

you need to get that code read.

how loud is this ticking noise? i hope you didn't break a spring, dropping the valve into the cylinder... :uhoh:

I dont believe its that drastic cause it pretty faint, although I could be wrong ? :think:

Blinking CEL should be a misfire.

Your running NGK TR6 plugs right? And you just put them in when you put the radix on?

Not running NGK Tr6's... Why would this have such an adverse effect? Dont hundreds of people run this S/C on vortec setups, plus magnacharger doesent exactly go out of their way to recommend running them?

I'll pull the plugs out again and take some pictures. Maybe Im not seeing something...

 

[Bumpers]

the blinking means your missfiring.... it sounds like its acting like a bad 02 sensor... you need to get it read and see whats goin on if its dead missfiring or random missfires...

 

[DirtMafia]

the blinking means your missfiring.... it sounds like its acting like a bad 02 sensor... you need to get it read and see whats goin on if its dead missfiring or random missfires...

I could see that, I had a 02 sensor rattle out when I put the headers in and its running similar to that, minus the barely audible ticking noise. The only thing is that when I start the truck now the light isnt blinking, its steady, would the code be stored in memory or something? I dont wanna have to do another 75% run with the truck in this state to just get the damn light to blink.
Im going to hop on my ricecycle and pick up a OBD2 reader from kragen now...

 

[Bumpers]

it will show whats its doin if its a live scanner... it just blinks when it is misfiring...

 

[DirtMafia]

it will show whats its doin if its a live scanner... it just blinks when it is misfiring...

Which leads me to believe its something else then, cause even rolling once around the block didnt make the light blink and the thing sputtered the whole way. It only was blinking under the 75% throttle run :suicide:

P.S. thanks for all the responses guys...were getting closer I do believe.

 

[Bumpers]

it still might sputter... one of my buddies trucks was doin the same thing but it would only blink under heavier throttle not just putting around.... granted he didnt have a blower but idunno. Just read the codes and post up what you get... that will help. and see if you cant get a live scanner and watch the live feeds as you drive

 

[DirtMafia]

hope everyone is sitting down for this one......


p0036
p0053
p0054
p0056
p0060
p0141
p0161
p0171
p0174
p0300


:sad face:

 

[FarmTruk]

Too lean

you're running N20 with a blower? Did you upgrade the fuel pump?

 

[DirtMafia]

Too lean

you're running N20 with a blower? Did you upgrade the fuel pump?

yea, I put in the Walboro that came with the radix....
and the spray isnt even hooked up, nor will it be ...ever with the radix i think.
This thing sputters like no other :flame:

 

[FarmTruk]

Do you have an oiled gauze air filter? Maybe a contaminated MAF?


and just as fyi for you and others. link to obdII codes... http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

 

[FarmTruk]

P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0053 HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0054 HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

P0056 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0060 HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2, Sensor 2)

P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0161 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

 

[Hit Man X]

Not running NGK Tr6's... Why would this have such an adverse effect? Dont hundreds of people run this S/C on vortec setups, plus magnacharger doesent exactly go out of their way to recommend running them?

Boost necessitates a tighter gap and lower heat range or the plug melts down. It is pretty gross when the ground strap melts down. BTDT. Single step should be fine for you.

I am unable to see anything regarding a larger fuel pump, unless I simply overlooked it. :think: Do you have FP gauge up on the rail to see if you are dropping pressure at WOT?

Inline or intank?

 

[DirtMafia]

Boost necessitates a tighter gap and lower heat range or the plug melts down. It is pretty gross when the ground strap melts down. BTDT. Single step should be fine for you.

I am unable to see anything regarding a larger fuel pump, unless I simply overlooked it. :think: Do you have FP gauge up on the rail to see if you are dropping pressure at WOT?

Inline or intank?

So a set of Tr6's would be a damn good idea im taking it?

And I have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and it seems to stay right around ~55psi even at WOT. :think:

Its a in-tank pump too....

 

[Hit Man X]

So a set of Tr6's would be a damn good idea im taking it?

And I have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and it seems to stay right around ~55psi even at WOT. :think:

Its a in-tank pump too....

Uh... yes on the plugs. Pull yours, bet they are in poor shape.

Do you have a scan tool? Check your injector duty cycle at WOT, those 44lb/hr marines are not as big as people think due to the Gen III rail pressure.

Remember FI uses MORE fuel to make the same HP as an N/A motor would.

 

[matthimself]

i still got the wideband...........