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talk to people at rons or randys
 

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got mine at summit
 

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Randys will never get a single penny from me after their shit salesman was an ass on the phone. With Rons ask to talk to Ron if you want and he will sell you some stuff.

As far as your dif get a Detroit true trac, most of us run them and love them. In reverse it will switch to a one wheel but going forward its both tires. I think a little e brake in reverse will trick it to go posi if you really need it. That Yukon gear will wear out when the clutches wear out and no more POSI. The true trac has no clutches to wear out.
 

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Rons was awesome. I ordered my true trac through Amazon because it was really cheap. Gears and install kits through rons.


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Is this going into a 10bolt? If so your asking for trouble if those are 40" tires your running. The lower the gear the smaller the pinion which means weaker parts. I would invest the $250 to $400 more to do the 14 FF or SF swap.
I'll second this
 

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40's are a no go with a 10 bolt. its not worth the $ as it WILL break eventually. a good friend of mine went through 2 10 bolts before he finally figured it out and he was only on 35's with 4.88's. it was supercharged though.
 

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I definitely plan on 37's at least on mine. I did the 5.13 swap, but my only issue is how small the 35's look with the lift.


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That's why I always say go big on gears.

1: it's more fun.
2: your truck will shrink and you will need bigger tires.
 

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40's are a no go with a 10 bolt. its not worth the $ as it WILL break eventually. a good friend of mine went through 2 10 bolts before he finally figured it out and he was only on 35's with 4.88's. it was supercharged though.
I stripped the spiders clean out of an auburn limited slip twice in a 10 bolt.

Went out and bought yukon axles, c clip mod, truetrac, bla bla bla. Long story short, yes the fluid never has metal in it and no problems have arisen in the last 17k miles. Doesnt mean I don't cringe when I arm the nitrous.

If it blows again, it's getting a 14 bolt and the front frame hacked for a 9.25 ifs. That is if I don't push it off a cliff and buy a 3/4 ton first.
 

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I stripped the spiders clean out of an auburn limited slip twice in a 10 bolt.

Went out and bought yukon axles, c clip mod, truetrac, bla bla bla. Long story short, yes the fluid never has metal in it and no problems have arisen in the last 17k miles. Doesnt mean I don't cringe when I arm the nitrous.

If it blows again, it's getting a 14 bolt and the front frame hacked for a 9.25 ifs. That is if I don't push it off a cliff and buy a 3/4 ton first.
i think the 9.25 is a nightmare to get to work, I know its not an easy swap.
 

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so whats the benifits to switching to 14 ff just stronger?
It's a "set it and forget it" part. It can take 37 inches tires and turbos without flinching.
 

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so whats the benifits to switching to 14 ff just stronger?
Everything about them is stronger. The 14 bolt Full float that most talk about in 4x4's is a 10.5 Ring gear. They are very common in off road applications because they are one of the mass produced rear ends that you can find for around $100 that can hold up to alot abuse. your tires also stay on if you break an axle shaft. GM has started using a 11.5 gear in the newer rear ends.

The 14 bolt Simi float is in 3/4 ton trucks. They still use C clips to hold axles in so if you do blow up your rear end there is still a chance your axles could slid out. For this reason most people don't like them and they use a 9.5 ring gear. However a 14 SF is a great upgrade and you can find them cheap also. These came in 90's Light duty 2500's in 6 lug design that 1/2 ton guys like as you don't have to run 8 lug wheels. There is a silverado SS 2wd that is the only 2000+ year SF that came in the 6 lug design I think.

Any 14 bolt would benefit your setup and a google search on 14 SF or 14 FF swap will give you tons of info on the subject.

At any given time your 10 bolt could look like this
 
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