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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright getting ready to do my rear main install this weekend. But got some questions

1. Do I need an alignment tool such as this: Summit Racing SUM-900335 Summit Racing™ Pro LS Rear Cover Alignment Tools | Summit Racing
I have seen people just pop the rear main on and go basically so I don't really understand why I need this. Also I am a bit confused on the function of it. I read the directions but I feel like I have to be missing something.
2. I use oil and not grease when lubing the seal correct? I thought that the grease may heat and mess with the rubber so I was going to use oil instead. What say you?
3. Blue loctite on the fly wheel or no?
4. RTV across the entire oil pan gasket or just the corners?

These may be basic but I see contradicting stuff concerning these so just want to get it straight. Thanks lads
 

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1. That tool appears to be primarily for installing the cover that the seal goes into, so the cover is properly located w.r.t. the crankshaft. If you aren't removing the cover, then you don't need the tool. It could also be used as a seal-driver, but it's kind of expensive to just be used for that...
2. If there is a spring on the inner lip of the seal, putting some grease on it can help prevent it from popping off while you are installing it. Personally, I put a very thin layer of rtv on the outside of the seal, grease on the spring, and oil on the inner lip.
3. IIRC, from swapping transmissions about 5 years ago, GM does want blue loctite on the flex plate bolts.
4. When I did my oil pan gasket, I just did the corners, and it seems to be holding up well, did it about 3-4 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Gotcha thanks guys! I am pulling the whole cover off. I figured it would be easier o get the seal out that way.
 

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If you don't want to take the cover off,and then clean the cover and the engine, get a gasket/reseal it and then properluy align it), I find driving a wood screw into the side of the seal, then pulling on the screw with pliers/visegrips gets the seal out. Sometimes it takes doing it twice, but it works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I figure that the alignment shouldn’t be bad, the bolts can only go in one way haha but thanks for the tips. I’ll be pulling the cover cause I haven’t replaced it either. No biggie :D
 

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I figure that the alignment shouldn’t be bad, the bolts can only go in one way haha but thanks for the tips. I’ll be pulling the cover cause I haven’t replaced it either. No biggie :D
There’s more to it though. There are no dowels, so you have to align it for the seal to crank surface AND parallel to the pan rails. I’d suggest you watch a few videos because if you just jam it on there, it’ll leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've watched videos and in like every single video I've watch nobody uses the alignment tool. The bench install the seal into the rear main cover and then just slap it on basically.

I don't understand what you mean by seal to crank surface though, I don't remember there being a whole lot of wiggle room for the seal to move when I was looking at it when my engine was out
 

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I think it's more of a problem if you install the cover, then install the seal, as there's nothing to align the cover properly. But if you install the seal into the cover first, then install the cover on the engine, the seal centers itself on the crankshaft.
 

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The bottom surface of the seal housing has to be parallel with the pan sealing surface of the block. The seal will center, but the housing itself does not self align with the block…

Put the seal in the housing, install to block leaving bolts loose, place a straight edge along the bottom to center it, then tighten bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sometimes it is hard for me to understand what yall try to say. Glad it was you and not me this time lol

Swapped the seal today. Have not put everything back together. Did a little shortcut by just pull the trans backwards instead of dropping the whole thing down meaning I kept my exhaust in place. Tomorrow it is supposed to rain so hopefully Sunday I can at least get the bellhousing bolts back in.

I will be killing myself if this does not fix my leak
 

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I still can’t completely shake my reading comprehension disability

Take a look up where the cam sensor goes into the block as well while you have it apart. Sometimes they leak and can look like a rear main leak.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll double check that when I'm back under there!

I found oil under the rear main seal on the cover so I think that I finally have found my culprit. Fortunately I do have an extra cam sensor lying around
 

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I'll double check that when I'm back under there!

I found oil under the rear main seal on the cover so I think that I finally have found my culprit. Fortunately I do have an extra cam sensor lying around
You might want to check the dumbbell while your in there. I did the same job on my 06 Sierra and forgot to check the dumbbell. If I would have remembered to check I would have upgraded it to one of the billet ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What about it specifically should I check? I looked at it but I didn't see anything that popped out to me
 

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What about it specifically should I check? I looked at it but I didn't see anything that popped out to me
Nothing. It’s an oil relief plug, that dosnt break. Not sure what the $20 billet one fixes.

IMO you can’t pull that barbell out without breaking it or pulling the oil Gallery plug.
 

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Oh but always torque the lower 8mm cover bolts to 106” before torquing the rest of the rear main cover bolts.
 
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