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http://www.desertrides.com/multimedia/video/king_rebuild.wmv
It's a king but kind of the same thing...
It's a king but kind of the same thing...
Rebuilding / Valving shocks
Anyone have detailed instructions on howto rebuild and revalve a shock, specifically a bilstein 7100. Allthough any resivour shock should do, they are all very very similar.
Also for my application what valving do you think would be best. Obvisuly soft since im running duals front and rear.
Also for my application what valving do you think would be best. Obvisuly soft since im running duals front and rear.
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that helps but DAMN, you cant hear shit there is so much background noise. Whoever made that video needs to be slapped.
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niiiiiice, now i nee to figure out teh valving i need :think:
Dark Eternal said:
are you running singles or duals?
And don't call Bilstein. They are too damn caught up in the desert racing/prerunner scene. They told me I should run 275/78 valving on my Z71 with dual shocks. This would be stiff as hell. I take my truck off road but thats nuts.
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duals front and rear
Same here. I have Procomp shocks that came with my kit and am in the process of changing over. I have 4 short body 12 inchers in 170/60 valving. (AK7112SB) I am going to try these on the rear first. If they work out right I may go with the 180/75 in the front. Extra weight from the engine etc. If they are just a bit too stiff I live with them and run 170/60s in the front also. If they are way too stiff, I plan to move them to the front and go with 150/50 in the rear. Keep in mind that this in on a 1500 with the stock 10 bolt rear and 8.25 front. My reference point was someone who had a stock 1500HD. (IE still IFS and no axle swaps) He was running single 275/78 all around and said it was a bit stiffer than he would like.Dark Eternal said:
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hmm so maybe 220/75ish?
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try going to a local off road shop and ask them they might know
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HA, maybe in arizona but not here, i know more than all of the people combined at my local 4x4 shops.
I would like to know more about shock valving. I understand the numbers are rebound over compression but how do these companies determine the proper specs? Is it based off the front and rear weight of the vehicle? Suspension type...i.e. springs vs torsion bars etc. Driving habits/conditions obviously plays a roll. So many factors and no equation.
Sorry I disappeared last night. Suddenly I could not access the site.Dark Eternal said:
Umm, unless you have seen something I haven't, they don't make a 220/75. The valving options are:
150/50
170/60
180/75
275/78
360/80
I also once saw a list that had 255/70 listed. I don't know if that has been dropped or is still available. Off hand, unless you are driving through the desert at 100 mph I would think that 180/75s all around would be plenty. Keeping in mind that you are running duals.
Here is a list of valving recommendations,
http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORvg.asp
Notice that there are no recommended uses for the 150/50 and 170/60 except for rock crawling. They assume that nobody is dumb enough to spend that type of cash on shocks for a truck that spends anytime on the road at all.
All the different manufacturers use different valving numbers. Bilsteins work like this: The measurement is at a piston velocity of .52 meters per second. That would be close to moving a 10 inch travel shock its full length in about a half second. The force required to move the shock at that speed is measured in Newtons and written as a tenth of that value. IE a 170/60 shock took 1700 Newtons to compress at .52 mps and 600 Newtons to extend at .52 mps.
One last thing, you can get custom valving options made. I have no idea what this would cost, but in theory you should be able to get a 220/75 if that what you determined you really want.
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ok cool, looks like 180/75 is what I will aim for. They are set stiff as hell right now whatever they are.
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go to raceshock.com. They might be able to help
are they the reservoir type or the schrader valve type 7100s? There should be a clear sticker right at the top of the shock that has the serial number the part number and the valving on it. If you just have the part number I can tell you the valving.Dark Eternal said:
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they are the ressies. It doesnt have a part number because they are sold as bilsteins. They are made by bilstein (identicle to teh 7100 except no stickers and a different colored hsoe) for full throttle to sell and a few other people use them as well I think.
http://www.fullthrottlesuspension.com/108-0868_IMG.JPG
http://www.fullthrottlesuspension.com/108-0868_IMG.JPG
Hmmm there has to be a way to tell. It would be a damn shame for you to go to all that work if they are already 180/75s. They could fool you. It takes a fair amount of effort for me to collapse my 170/60s. I can't do it just holding it with both hands. I have to place the piston rod end on the ground and push down hard with both hands.Dark Eternal said:
I just remembered the most important thing :insane: Don't sweat the valving too much because you can fine tune it with the actual psi you run with the nitrogen. The stated range is 180 to 250 psi. I have heard of people running as much as 300 psi. I don't know how low you can go. If you try the 180/75s and they are still too stiff, just let some N2 out.
One more thing. Check out ORU. http://www.offroadunlimited.com/
They have a billet clamp for these shocks that is really nice. They also have a replacement hose. They are sold together as a kit or individually. I think the hose is better than the stock or the one in the FT pic. First, it is a braided stainless hose. So it is smaller in OD with the same ID but it can still take the same psi. So it is more flexable. In addition, the ends are bent at 90 deg. Together, this means that the hose will not stick up as far, but more off to the side. This is a big help in trying to get the shocks under your wheel well or up under your bed. Notice how far the hose coupling sticks up past the mount eye in the FT pic. ORU just re-did their site so I don't see them listed but they still make them. Just call them if you're interested
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