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Discussion Starter #1
aight I got to replace all of my upper & lower balljoints. Whats the easiest way to take out the upper joints and does anyone have any tips for the uppers and lowers that may help me out?
 

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I'm pretty sure that you have to grind off the rivet heads and have them pressed out...if you don't have a press readily available...most machine shops will do it for ya for a small fee. Then I believe the new bj's will need to be pressed back in too.

Pat
 

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From what I know, if you have stock upper control arms you have to replace the whole upper control arm. Call your GM dealer just to make sure, but I think that's the case for the upper ball joints..
 

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Yeah I was gonna say the same thing. I'm in the process of replacing my lowers right now, but I did my uppers a few weeks ago. Bolt in, bolt out deal.
 

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kdubaz said:
Yeah I was gonna say the same thing. I'm in the process of replacing my lowers right now, but I did my uppers a few weeks ago. Bolt in, bolt out deal.
How were the uppers bolt on? Aren't the uppers pressed in? I know the lowers are riveted, but how do you bolt on the upper ball joints?
 

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They're pressed into the uppers, and since Chevy only offers a replacement control arm, not the balljoint, I bolted in a new control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok so you can't use the exsisting upper control arm and have to buy a new one from the dealership? If I got that right how much did the control arm run ya? would I be better off only getting the 2 lower joints and buying the DJM or ART upper control arm? I'm a little confused now...
 

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Well that's up to you. I do know you cannot get a factory upper balljoint by itself. The lowers you can get though.

BTW, anyone had any luck getting the lowers out? I've ground the heads off of the rivets, now I'm trying to get the things out of there, using an air chisel, and NO luck.
 

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kdubaz said:
Well that's up to you. I do know you cannot get a factory upper balljoint by itself. The lowers you can get though.

BTW, anyone had any luck getting the lowers out? I've ground the heads off of the rivets, now I'm trying to get the things out of there, using an air chisel, and NO luck.
Drill them out with a small drill bit, make sure to center it, and go up in size with bits two or three times till its almost out. Then i resorted to heating a sledge and a big phillips head. Have fun, took me forever. Good luck
 

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kdubaz said:
They're pressed into the uppers, and since Chevy only offers a replacement control arm, not the balljoint, I bolted in a new control arm.
Ok, I thought that was the case.

wayt2hi,
I would get some DJM uppers. That's what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
how much did the DJM UCA's run ya? Do you have 2" spindles up front or factories? What do you have for LCA's? Got any pics of how much camber ya got up front when laid out?
So I can replace the factory balljoint in my upper control arms?
 

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way2hi said:
how much did the DJM UCA's run ya? Do you have 2" spindles up front or factories? What do you have for LCA's? Got any pics of how much camber ya got up front when laid out?
So I can replace the factory balljoint in my upper control arms?

Cost me about 210 or something like that. I have factory spindles. Stock LCA's. No pics.
Like I mentioned earlier, I think you have to replace the whole arm for the upper ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So would I be better off getting the DJM UCA's and using them with my McGauhy's spindles or just getting the factory control arm and using it with the McGauhy's spindles?
 

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Its up to you man, I mean I have the McGaughys and factory ucas. Didn't cost me much, but I've got a homie-hook up at GM, and when he comes through (which is rare) he comes through in spades.

Off topic -- what tailgate handle relocator kit are you running or are you? I love how clean that looks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
kdubaz: I have a belltech handle relocator, is yours not shaved?
Do you have any idea if the DJM will help anymore with the camber?
 

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The DJM's help me reduce negative camber. Check the prices for both stock and DJMs and make your choice from there.
 

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I'll tell you this much: If you're planning on body dropping it, or if you're planning on running 22's, keep the stock ucas. I needed to shove the camber in ALL the way to clear the fender on my truck. Otherwise I would be screwed.

Way: Yeah I had a stepside bed before, and that tailgate was shaved, but I didn't like the flip kit. I'll be doing it to my new bed soon, so I wanna get something cleaner.
 
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