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Senior Military Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I got my raise today. $9/hr :rocking: :rocking:

I need to complie a list of to buy parts, and also get some questions answered. Im sure theres a few things I'm missing but hopefully ya'll can point all that stuff out. Jason will be able to answer alot if not all of these. I dont plan on making this a 44" worthy 60 just yet. 35's are my max tire size for a DD. I don't want to sky high it like Jason, or Stephens, just about the same hieght as a 3-4" lifted Ford or Dodge 3/4 ton.

My truck is a 1997 K2500 4x4 L31 Vortec 350, 4L80E, manual shift 241, 14 bolt rear.

1. Jason, is there any clearance problems with the front diff vs. the oil pan or cross members up front?
2. Im sure I'll need my exhuast modified. Any body care to confirm?
3. If the hub's arnt locked, and the t-case is in 2HI, the front drive shaft shouldn't spin. This means I could essentialy run a farm emplement collapsable drive shaft cut to length, correct?
4. Jason, our independent front suspensions/frames can't be that much different, K2500 vs K3500 srw, right? If this holds true, how did you mount the hangers for you front springs? My frame tapers ALOT! Like a foot or more in the front. How did you compensate for this? I know Stephen put his front hangers under the frame and his rears inboard. Are yours similar?
5. How many hours did it take you to rid yourself of the IFS, and grind the frame smoothe?
6. Will stock 60 shafts, inners and outers, hold up to 35" tires with an easy to moderate foot?

To buy list:
late 70's Ford Dana 60 King Pin
Dana 60 Detroit
Bearings, seals, and races thru-out
Warn Premium Dana 60 lock out hubs
Chevy 1-ton TREs
New u-joints (longfields?)
Brake lines for a 73-87 4" lifted chevy
73-87 rear 1/2 ton springs
Bendix rotos
New pads
New calipers
King pin rebuld kit
4.10:1 gears (if not already equipped)
7/8" left handed tap
new wheel studs, lug nuts

I know I'll need high steer arms and a tire rod, and track bar. I can build those myself as well as the hangers/brackets. I work in a machine and fabrication shop with everything from tube benders, 1/4" plate breaks, 1/4" plate shears, multiple lathes, multiple milling machines, a CNC burn table, CNC milling machine, 5 plasma cutters, ALOT of welders, tig, stick mig..... I'm set as far as material and machining labor goes.

Missing anything? This list is to just get the axle rolling, not bolted up yet.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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6,656 Posts
2) - yes you will
3) - yes
4) - I already told you! :crazy:
5) - half a day to a day depending on how proficiant you are with a grinder/torch
6) the stock shafts should hold up fine

-get spicer sealed joints.
-you will need a crossover arm and new studs
-you should rebuild the kingpins
-you will need shock tabs of some sort
-you might want to get new spindle studs
-dont forget the torrington bearings and spindle seals
-might look into a bigger yolk. I actually have a 1350 ill sell you.
-might want to look into a beefier tie rod with gm TRE - if so you need to ream out the knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dark Eternal said:
2) - yes you will
3) - yes
4) - I already told you! :crazy:
5) - half a day to a day depending on how proficiant you are with a grinder/torch
6) the stock shafts should hold up fine

-get spicer sealed joints.
-you will need a crossover arm and new studs
-you should rebuild the kingpins
-you will need shock tabs of some sort
-you might want to get new spindle studs
-dont forget the torrington bearings and spindle seals
-might look into a bigger yolk. I actually have a 1350 ill sell you.
-might want to look into a beefier tie rod with gm TRE - if so you need to ream out the knuckles.
I know you already told me but you have a NBS 1/2 ton :D I listed the kingpin rebuild kit :crazy: Yea shock monts are a given. Spindle studs? Are they as cheap has wheel studs? Im not sure what torrington bearings or seals are, but It was my intention to strip the housing and knuckle assemblys and if it was a bearing or a seal, replace it. What size yolks come on them stock? For a tie rod i was going to use 1 1/2" cold rolled shafting with drilled and tapped ends. Think I'll need somthing beefier? I've heard cross over arm before but refresh my memory. And yea, new studs were in order with the addition of the high steer arms.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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6,656 Posts
set of spindle studs is like 30 bucks.

1310 yolks stock, they are dinky

yes that will be strong enough most likely :crazy:

crossover are is a histeer arm. hi-steer is when you run an arm on each knuckle and relocate your tie rod to there. Bad idea on ford d60s, thats a weak point on the knuckle. crossover arm would be the one on the passengre side where you tie in the drag link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you have a pic of a cross over arm set up? I dont care how beefy of a tierod I''m going to use, I dont want it to hang lower then the diff. I must be confused because thats where I'm seeing it. The drag link goes from the pitman arm to the passenger side knucle, and then the tie rod from knucle to knucke via the arms, right? I just know a pic will make me kick myself in the head, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
AAAAAAWWWWWWWWw I think i gotchya now. I new a pic would help. And yea thats plenty high for me. Let me make sure I understand this right.

The Drag link attaches to the shiny steering arm up top, and the tie rod to the red circle, and the to the other side in the same location, correct?
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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correct - and if you want to run GM TRE in the tie rod you need to ream out those knuckles, why I was saying I need to order my reamer so I can put my new tie rod in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ill need to ream out the hole in the red circle to run gm tre's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so, they need to be reamed out. I assume the hole is cone shaped? And in order to run gm tre's they need to be a bigger cone shape? Am i understanding correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok i gotchya now. Is it cast iron? or whats the nuckle made of?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lol if they are cast iron then how the hell do you drill or ream them out with out shattering them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I see. So no power tools :nonono: How thick is it? like how much material do you have to go thru?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok so I gotta question, what happens if you shatter the tapered eyelet? Gotta buy a new knuckle? Im glad youre doing this 1st lol.
 

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Lol you guys ever here of AIM? :anitoof:

Anyway, on to the list!

Well all but 1 are answere so:

1) No, I have plenty of room. And whats this sky high like Jason's truck business? My truck's a low rider compared to most on here, only 6.5-7" lift.

Anyway, the knuckles are Cast Steel not Cast Iron, you can drill/ream/tap whatever them without problem, even weld on them. And yes I agree that reaming to the larger GM TRE's is a good idea, high steer is bad idea. What I did on mine is drill the knuckles with a 3/4" bit and then just ran 3/4" heims, worked well.
 
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