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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #41
Ill be doing this soon with a 5.3 i picked up but i will need new pistons
Iron or Aluminum block, sorta looks alu in the pic? Yep new slugs for sure. To bad the cylinders are gonna need a boring bar & hone. If they were still good you could have dropped in some stock 4.8 flattops bringing up the c/r. What head casting #'s are going on it?
 

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Iron or Aluminum block, sorta looks alu in the pic? Yep new slugs for sure. To bad the cylinders are gonna need a boring bar & hone. If they were still good you could have dropped in some stock 4.8 flattops bringing up the c/r. What head casting #'s are going on it?
Yeah it will need some boring, which is why im considering a stroker kit. Ill need new pistons, rods, and probably crankshaft anyways. It is a iron block. Im going to use the heads that came with it they are 706 castings so they are casetech heads but they arent cracked yet. If i happen to come across some better heads for cheap then ill just sell the 706s. This motor will eventually end up in my '88 c1500 and would like to eventually go forced induction. Im planning on it taking me 2 years to get it ready to swap unless the 5.7l tbi blows before then, but i doubt it. 450k and the sum bitch just wont die. Still has 150-170 psi on all cylinders and has never been rebuilt.


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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Yeah it will need some boring, which is why im considering a stroker kit. Ill need new pistons, rods, and probably crankshaft anyways. It is a iron block. Im going to use the heads that came with it they are 706 castings so they are casetech heads but they arent cracked yet. If i happen to come across some better heads for cheap then ill just sell the 706s. This motor will eventually end up in my '88 c1500 and would like to eventually go forced induction. Im planning on it taking me 2 years to get it ready to swap unless the 5.7l tbi blows before then, but i doubt it. 450k and the sum bitch just wont die. Still has 150-170 psi on all cylinders and has never been rebuilt.
Sounds like you've got a plan. Keep an eye on the classifieds over at LS1tech you might find a stroked or stock LM7 rotating assembly for a decent price.

Finally finished cleaning up the pistons and rods. Getting them clean on the outside, inside the ring grooves and removing the pins to clean the varnish out of little slot in the piston that delivers the oil to the pin was a slow but rewarding process. The pins are again full floaters with the sticky varnish removed. Just got the rings, bearings & gaskets. Before I start assembly of the short block, I need to hone, clean the oil pan, windage, valley, front & rear covers, buy a 4.0" ARP tapered ring compressor, new oil pump and a timing chain. I bought another complete intake with fuel rails, injectors and the MAP sensor (mines broken). It has the return fuel line and the fuel pressure regulator that the 05 Escalade intake dose not, that my truck needs. It also has the barrel nuts for mounting a DBC setup whereas the other Intake doesn't giving me that option... if needed. Ebay $38 shipped was a great deal IMO.

One thing I've learned about the LS that's different than any motor I've built is ALL the rods go in the SAME direction when installing the wristpin. Every motor I've built, seen built and researched, four rods one way, four rods the other way. This keeps the bearing tangs together opposite the camshaft and the rod caps oil holes that skeet are pointing to the camshaft. The LS1 it doesn't matter. I did install like they already were, piston notch to the front, rod dimple to the rear.


 

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Toxic Masculinity
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3,673 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
The cams for the LS are pretty expensive. I was going to buy a streetable cam then decided to just go with the stock piece until I had the funds for a performance cam kit. Then I started watching the "Sloppy Mechanic" "don't BS Me" build videos on YouTube. He's running a $250 (shipped) Elgin E-1840-P 228/230. Elgin has three different grinds that Comp, Trickflow and other cam company's buy white box, put in in their box and raise the prices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elgin-Camshaft-E-1840-P-2200-5400-Hydraulic-Roller-585-585-for-Chevy-LS1/281820127021?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

RPM Range: 2200-5400
Intake Valve Lift: .585"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .585"
Advertised Intake Duration: 283°
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 286°
Intake Duration @ .050": 228°
Exhaust Duration @ .050": 230°
Lobe Separation: 112°

I'm thinking of a slightly smaller grind from Elgin the E-1839-P 220/224.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elgin-Camshaft-E-1839-P-2000-4800-Hydraulic-Roller-575-575-for-Chevy-LS1/351541778776?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

RPM Range: 2000-4800
Intake Valve Lift: .575"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .575"
Advertised Intake Duration: 286°
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282°
Intake Duration @ .050": 220°
Exhaust Duration @ .050": 224°
Lobe Separation: 112°

The springs ($140) he uses on that build are PAC-1218 Beehive good for .600

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-LS-Valve-Springs-PAC-1218-GM-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-600-Lift/361130654876?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
 

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The price to performance ratio for the cam is great tho. Slide in 50hp for $375 plus springs............seems worth it. Considering the motor is just sitting there, outside of the truck, waiting, do it up.

Ive picked up a 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2 for $250 off of LS1tech. The deals are out there if youre patient.
 

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Knuckle Buster
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hey...once you get that motor built, just ship it on over to me...I have a 67 gmc and a built 4l80e with a lokar top shift this motor would look great with :read:
 

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Toxic Masculinity
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3,673 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Ordered the camshaft today :secret:

Got the right bank cylinder head cleaned up. I blocked all the gasket sealing surfaces with 320/400 grit and used degreaser as a lubricant. Blasted all the carbon out of the intake ports with my pressure washer. I'll replace the seals when my PAC-1218 springs arrive, then call them done.







 

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x3 shitbox owner
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Ordered the camshaft today :secret:

Got the right bank cylinder head cleaned up. I blocked all the gasket sealing surfaces with 320/400 grit and used degreaser as a lubricant. Blasted all the carbon out of the intake ports with my pressure washer. I'll replace the seals when my PAC-1218 springs arrive, then call them done.







Super duper squeaky clean, looks almost brand new.
 
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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #51
What did you use to get the oil staining off the heads?
Pressure washer, greased lightning (degreaser), brass wire end brush for drill spinning at slow rpm's to clean combustion chambers, 320 and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a 3M rubber sanding block to clean gasket sealing areas keeping them flat, zero fear of getting wet.





 

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not milling them down any?
 

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Might as well port/polish along with cut/seat valves. Put some anti-heat coating in the exhaust chambers. It will all help with the cam work going into it.
 

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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #55
not milling them down any?
The heads are flat. I can't get a .003 feeler gauge underneath using a machinist straight edge. The factory compression ratio is 10:1 so I'd rather spend that money on parts.
Might as well port/polish along with cut/seat valves. Put some anti-heat coating in the exhaust chambers. It will all help with the cam work going into it.
Nope :)
might as well coat the runners while you're at it too
Nope :)

I found another Intake on e-bay, it arrived today. I needed the return type fuel rail with the fuel pressure regulator on the rail. The one I had was a return-less rail with the pressure regulator in the fuel tank. I also needed the MAP sensor as mine was broken during engine removal. The $38 (shipped) e-bay intake was complete minus the TB. Cleaned it, used the Escalade right bank fuel rail & injectors, plus moved the left bank injectors from the Escalade over to the e-bay intake's fuel rail. Now the intake is ready to go.

Got 80% done cleaning the other head until thunderstorms forced me back inside. I'll knock the rest of that out in the morning. Still need to clean the valve covers, oil pan & windage, front & rear covers, valley cover and coil packs.

The e-bay intake on the left ready to install.




 

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Big Louie
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How much would it cost you to mill the heads?
That's cheap powa

Also my comment about the coatings was only if you got the other items coated as suggested. If it were already getting some done mightas well get it all done
 

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Rusty Hinges, porn star
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How much would it cost you to mill the heads?
That's cheap powa
I don't think cost is the reason he's not going with milling. Higher compression would push him into an area where he may need to use higher octane fuel which would require a tune & take longer to get into the truck.
 

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I don't think cost is the reason he's not going with milling. Higher compression would push him into an area where he may need to use higher octane fuel which would require a tune & take longer to get into the truck.
if hes gonna cam it, then hes losing compression and already needs tuning, so......extra $70 for milling both heads blows the budget? that engine already requires 91+ anyways...no harm in milling them down some to recoup some cr and get a clean and mint mating surface.
 

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@RedXray , post pics of the underside of the passenger valve cover...curious to see if it has the revised "pcv" or not.
 

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