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It's still in the truck. It's a really good camshaft for what I have now. The Intake valve closes at 36* ABDC which gives my setup a shitload of dynamic compression which is great for bottom end torque. The recommended static compression for the chopper is 10.5:1 and below. The LQ9 with the 317's 72cc chambers is 10.1:1 so everything plays together nicely. The new heads have 62cc chambers giving me a 11.4:1 static CR so the dynamic CR will be way to high for the new setup. Didn't want to have to pull a lot of time out to address KR and detonation issues.

The cam motion little chopper is a great little camshaft with less than six months of use. I'll probably list it for sale with a attractive price after it's pulled.
I’m the one that recommended that cam, you rember?

I’m running the same came in H.O.5.3. Just curious to seeyour inputs on it.
 

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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #724
It's on...

Doing the PRC 225 heads and TSP V-4 Torquer camshaft this week.

Pulled the truck outside to drain the coolant and remove the water pump so I wouldn't have such a mess on then garage floor. Blew compressed air in the blocks water pump passages to remove more remaining coolant to help when the heads are removed. Looks like I'll have to remove the entire exhaust system as the headers are blocking the lower head bolts.

It's HOT outside my thermometer is reading 95* degrees. Just draining the coolant while outside I was dripping sweat. Thankfully the Mr. Cool 24,000 BTU heat pump has the garage a comfortable 78* degrees. Now I can let my old back rest laying on the cool floor removing the exhaust. I'll update after I pull the 317's







 

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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #725
I pulled the steering shaft bolt and moving the shaft gave plenty of clearance with the drivers side header. The passenger side header not so lucky. I was able to work it out of the X pipe and remove it from the truck. At least I didn't have to drop the whole exhaust system. Pulled the heads no big surprises except my hamstrings are toast. It's a pain in the ass leaning over a fender pulling heads with a prosthetic leg.

I got to thinking I'm not 50 anymore when I was hand wrenching those back head bolts under the a/c. That orange locktite on the bolts makes you work until they're completely out. Thank goodness I have ARP bolts going in that only need lube and torqued to spec... no TTY or fighting thread locker.

Used a detail spray bottle removed the pump and jewgged the siphon tube into the blocks water jacket and pumped out enough coolant so it doesn't dribble out when leaning on the fender. I have a new shopvac my son gave me for Christmas but didn't want to suck antifreeze, it's much to nice.

Tonight I hope to get the camshaft out and replaced. The sooner I can drop in the new lifters and get the heads torqued I can measure and order the pushrods. Tomorrow I'll blow out the bolt holes, chase the threads then clean the deck surface.





 

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What’s going on with mr.4?

Or really all the pistons, they have a perfect head patern worn into them, but the 90 degrees off.
 

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Discussion Starter #728
Done for the day... got a lot done!
Lifters and camshaft now pulled out, not gonna lie grandpaw is tuckered out :sleep:

Tomorrow I'll drop the oil pan, remove the oil pump and pull the crank timing gear. When I did the camshaft a 7 months ago I RTV"d the front cover to the oil pan gasket. Working the sealed front cover off the pan gasket it cracked from the bead of RTV. I'll order a new pan gasket when I order pushrods. Other than the gasket issue everything went as planed.



Installed the Cam Motion "Little Chopper" last November. Happy to see all the lobes in perfect shape!
Cam has probably a couple thousand miles on it, did the cam 11-23-19 (in this thread)... someone make me an offer!

Still have the box and cam card along with a set of 7.4 BTR chromoly pushrods to sweetn the deal.



 

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Done for the day... got a lot done!
Lifters and camshaft now pulled out, not gonna lie grandpaw is tuckered out :sleep:

Tomorrow I'll drop the oil pan, remove the oil pump and pull the crank timing gear. When I did the camshaft a 7 months ago I RTV"d the front cover to the oil pan gasket. Working the sealed front cover off the pan gasket it cracked from the bead of RTV. I'll order a new pan gasket when I order pushrods. Other than the gasket issue everything went as planed.



Installed the Cam Motion "Little Chopper" last November. Happy to see all the lobes in perfect shape!
Cam has probably a couple thousand miles on it, did the cam 11-23-19 (in this thread)... someone make me an offer!

Still have the box and cam card along with a set of 7.4 BTR chromoly pushrods to sweetn the deal.



It want it. I live two streets down from cam motion.
 

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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #730
The carbon on piston tops were pretty tough. Brake Kleen didn't work as well has I'd had hoped. Figured they needed a good soaking and with the LS 90 degree design you just can't pour filling the cylinders.
Then a thought came... what about using one of your 4" foam polishing pads
:thinker:
the pad fit the 4" bore perfectly!

I soaked the pad in Seafoam after all Seafoam is just like GM's Upper Engine Cleaner! After about 20 minutes in each bore 95% of the carbon wiped right off. On the trouble spots I used a fine Roloc soaked in Seafoam at a very slow speed to polish the tops.







Now time for the camshaft...

The Rollmaster timing set has a warning on the instructions to machine a 60* chamfer in the opening of the retainer plate for clearance. I asked the question over at Tech and all the Rollmaster users never heard of the warning and just ran it out of the box. I wondered if my drum sanders on a die grinder would cut the chamfer. The plate was hardened and I was only able to work down the edge somewhat. It's not 60* but hopefully taking off the edge will help.



Soaked the Morel lifters overnight and installed with new LS2 GM trays..





All the deck surfaces have been cleaned and I'm in the process of installing the heads.
 

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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #731
Heads installed and measured for pushrods on the right bank. Pretty consistent averaged 7.462 + .045 Preload = 7.5075. Morel specifies 0.30 - 0.35 for an iron block but most aluminum guys shoot for 0.50 and some to 0.60. Martin from Tick says .030 to .060 is ok, I split the difference and I ordered BTR 7.50 pushrods from Summit Racing.

Now I have to get the truck up in the air to remove the oil pan, pickup, pump to remove the crank gear.. Could have went the easy way and slapped a LS2 chain on the old gears and not have had to drop the pan. Just don't like the sloppy chain that is normal on the LS platform.

About halfway through I figured it would have been much easier to have pulled the engine,
Leaning over fenders is a job for a young man
:D




 

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Discussion Starter #732
Got the pan off along with the oil pump. Ran into a stoppage my gear pullers won't fit behind the crank gear. Done some research and didn't come up with a solid answer as which puller I need.

The correct Kent-Moore puller is over $100 then you need the old school balancer puller as they work together, if I used it more than once I'd consider buying it. Anyone have a solution?





 

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Red if you have a welder you can make a puller I used a old steering wheel puller, I took two bolts the length I needed and tacked the heads of the bolts to the old chain a few inches apart so that they were parallel across when rapped around the gear and put the nuts on through the puller and pulled it off. It was late one night and everything was closed when I ran into the problem and I didn't want to wait till morning. You may can get a loaner from O'Reilly or advance for free. Not positive after my getup worked out. Lol

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #734
Red if you have a welder you can make a puller I used a old steering wheel puller, I took two bolts the length I needed and tacked the heads of the bolts to the old chain a few inches apart so that they were parallel across when rapped around the gear and put the nuts on through the puller and pulled it off. It was late one night and everything was closed when I ran into the problem and I didn't want to wait till morning. You may can get a loaner from O'Reilly or advance for free. Not positive after my getup worked out. Lol
Thanks!
Scouring the ls1tech & corvette forums there was a mix of Autozone, Advanced Auto and O'Reillys rental pullers that were hit or miss with some going to multiple stores multiple times with no luck. I was looking for a "yes this puller number xxxx will work", I hate running around town to different stores asking some fresh faced kid out of high school for help.

Two posts I found said the OTC (1025) Grip-O-Matic puller will work, It will be here tomorrow.

Gives me time today to clean the intake, oil pan and the garage...looks like every tool I own is scattered on the benches and the floor 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #735
SUCCESS
:razz:


Took the cheap 6" three jaw puller from Harbor Freight and ground the claws flat so they would fit behind the gear. Also ground the point flat on the rotating pusher. Using two hose clamps together to hold the jaws tight behind the gear. One leg popped off the gear... tagged that leg and flattened it a little more. The second try I felt the gear release!

Now back to work!



 

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Get the melling timing chain damper bracket. Nice way to get a LS6 damper on the on the old trucks. Don’t have to worry about the slop.
 
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Toxic Masculinity
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Discussion Starter #738
Get the melling timing chain damper bracket. Nice way to get a LS6 damper on the on the old trucks. Don’t have to worry about the slop.
Thought about buying the Trick Flow bracket and damper but the reviews at Summit were half and half. Many had issues with the bolts braking or the heads stripping. Don't think you can use the old style cam retainer plate you have to use the new countersunk design.

The damper doesn't take out the slop, it keeps the chain from whipping on deceleration and down shifts. Good for road racers that run constant high RPMs, not really needed for the street or drag racing... BUT yes nice to have indeed.

To late anyways I have the front cover already buttoned up. The Rollmaster chain is a lot tighter than my old LS2 replacement chain with very little slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #739
Well gonna call it a day... old man's tuckered out. This is the 4th 12 hour day, I need sleep to recharge my batteries. Was planning to get the oil pan bolted up along with the rack and cross member and be done underneath. Everything is clean & ready, trucks high in the air again... for tomorrow.

The Rollmaster timing set is pretty tight compared to the LS2 chain it's replacing so yeah it was worth pulling the pan.

Cleaned the oil pan and put a dab of RTV on 4 corners of the rails. Installed the new gasket then used bolts and nuts to get a good hold while it drys. This will keep the gasket from shifting during pan install.





 

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Discussion Starter #740
Well another full day... almost there!

Finished underneath with the oil pan, rack & crossmember. Up top... front cover, balancer, headers, water pump, coolant bypass, dip stick.

Tomorrow... pushrods, rockers (double check lifter preload), intake, power steering and alternator, plugs & wires, covers & coil packs, radiator & e-fans, belts & hoses, add coolant & oil, load tune with -4 degree timing, bust gasoline, tune MAF, VE & spark, burn rubber, drink beer.





 
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