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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #1
Few questions I need to get aswered.

1) I know I need to swap in a 2wd tailshaft onto my 4l60e to run a divorced case, but how hard is this? Can I do it myself or is it something Im going to need a tranny shop to do? Will running the 2wd tailshaft take care of the VSS? Like does it plug into it?

2) How should I mount the divorced 205 under my truck? Do I need to make a custom crossmember? Anyone got pics for ideas?? I have no clue here.

3) Where can I get the shifter for a np250 and how do you think it would be best to run it into my truck?

4) Should I simply design my spring brackets up front to put the center of the spring into the center of the wheel well? Anything special I should know about designing them? Will .25" steel be strong enough? :weld:

Cant think of much more for now, sure more will come to me.
 

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1) I still strongly dissagree with the divorced case. But if your dead set on it, the 2wd tail shaft isn't too hard. The tail housing unbolts from the tranny and I believe the tail shaft slides out the back once thats off, but I could be wrong... I've seen both ways. The other way it comes out the front and you have to gut the tranny to change it. The other one had the spline out the back, and the short tail shaft on the tail housing just slipped over it. Yes the VSS will be in the tail housing and you will be fine, but when in 4lo your speedo will be way off.

2) You will need to make a crossmember and mount it solid at the frame and use a rubber bushing at the t-case. Actually, with a divorced case it doesn't really need any bushings at all and you could hard mount it. Just make it real strong, lot of twisting force there.

3) You can use your stock shifter handle and you will need to make a longer linkage rod back to the 205 and you can use those tiny heims on it for smooth movement. Wants it's in you will see thats it's not too hard.

4) I would make it so the pin is forward about 1.5" of the center of the wheelwell. Everyone ends up moving there axle forward and if you start out an 1.5" forward your ahead of the game. I would run 3/16" and just design it well. I'm a fan of thin material with proper design opposed to heavy material just slapped together. Maybe some nice dimpled go fast holes. Buy a set of dimple dies to do this... And remember, bent plate is much stronger than cut and welded plate... If you can, buy a small harbor freight or similar sheet metal brake that can handle 4" wide 3/16" material. Shouldn't need anything wider than that on your brackets and it saves so much fab time.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #3
Ok youve helped a ton, but I dont have a stock shifter - I have stock buttons.

As far as the speedo being off in 4lo I dont give a shit, when your in 4lo speed doesnt matter, its all by gut at that point.

I will definatly take your advice and mount the axle foward. But as far as the brackets since im doing it in a metal shop I wont have to buy anything. Can you get some detailed pics sometime of all of yours and how they mount etc... so i can get some ideas.
 

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Hey DE im gonna jack/use this thread to ask some ?'s also if you dont mind.

first...the only thing i can really help you with on that is...why not just find a wrecked 4x4 99+ with the floor shifter..like willy said then you could just use the stock shifter and run it back there. It would make the interior look cleana dn stock even.

ok my turn

1) Fuck the bodylift...I want to sas it. I should look for a hp44 from what years? what shafts should i run? I spent too much time paying attn to 60's and ignoring the 44s.

2) i will most likely run 8 inch springs up front with cutouts and that should clear me some 38's ( 12 inch rear springs). I want to flex...i want the front to be very flexy but still ok enough to be a dd. Should i look at 52" springs up front? or will that kill my approach angle? think this much lift will clear wide 38s on NBS? I am not afraid to sawzall.

3) I suck...at fabbing and at welding. Would any of you guys be willing to help me weld on some perches and fab up some brackets? I would cover the cost and pay you guys some...i just dont have the skills or access to the tools atm, I am learining how to fabricate and weld this summer....but will be ready for this project sooner than that.

4) I have a 4.3l v-6....this will be swapped..just not for a while. So i plan on running 5.13 gears. Too extreme for dd? road trips? trails?

5) can i keep my stock x-fer case? I do not have autotrac.

6)steering...i assume i would just go with a x-over steering setup? can i use steering parts from say..superlift? the ones they use with their lifts? as far as drop pitman arms and shit?

7) whats a good price for a 44? anything to look out for?

8) i will be swapping the rear to a FF 14bolt.

9) lockers front and rear...i want detroits front and rear...is this a bad idea? will it trash the dana44?

thanks..and anything you guys can think of that i forgot...lay it on me.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #5
1) get a ford 78-79 HP44, just like you would a 60.

2) 8" springs are good...

3) If you were doing it this summer I could help!

4) Thats not to crazy, 4.88s would be more efficiant but 5.13s will be ok.

5) You can, its just not as bullet proof as say a np205

6) You will have to make a drag link and get a steering arm for the passenger knuckle.

9) This could be very rought on the front 44....
 

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DE: I agree, find a floor shifter from a junkyard truck or on ebay. One from an 88-98 would probably fit.

1) Get an hp44 from a 78-79 ford as stated. A later model will have springs too wide for anything over a 35" tire. I would run Superior inners and outer shafts and run CTM joints. But, do you plan on going to a 60 later? If so I wouldn't throw a ton of money into the 44. Those shafts and joints are an easy 2k.

2) I run 8" springs with 2 leafs removed. Stock they suck, they won't flex very well at all, way too stiff. 12" rear springs are just rediculous if you want any suspension movement at all. 52's do kill approach angle in these trucks, older trucks can get away with it but not these. You can still do it, but do something to protect the mounts as they will be plowing everything.

3) I can help with any custom stuff you need if you have no way of making it... Just have to send me some prints and I could fab and ship.

4) I would go with 5.13's. With the high first gear of an auto you need all the help you can get.

5) Yes you can, actually have a pretty decent low range too but if it's button shift be prepared for problems down the road.

6) You will need a pitman arm from some ford application or something... If you go to ORD's page they can get you the correct one for left/right steering that bolts to your steering box. You will also need the draglink and steering arm for the axle. The 44 pass. knuckle will need to be milled flat and drilled and tapped for the arm.

7) Used and needing rebuild $200. Rebuilt and good to run with your gears $6-800. Needing gears and your locker $4-500.

8) Yay

9) First of all, yes you will be braking parts, I would run a selectable for sure. Ox, ARB, Electrac, etc. Also, detroits are very weak inside. They are great while the shafts are good, but if your bound up and you pop a u-joint or stub shaft, the detroit will blow up too. An ARB is one of the only diffs other than an open diff that will hold up to the forces exerted by a joint or shaft blowing. Detroit in the back for sure.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #7
Wait your saying a detroit in the front is weak? Is this true for a d60 as well? I was going to run one up front with lockouts for the road...
 

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No, it's very strong and you will never break it, as long as you don't blow a shaft or joint... 9 times out of 10 they will explode when a joint or stub lets go if your really on it...
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #9
well shit hope I dont blow a shaft or joint. What u joint should i run do you think? What does a 79 ford 60 come with?
 

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I dont have a push button case. Its got the stick on the floor. if i ran the front with manual hubs like DE would i still have to worry about it blowing. I have done and dont wanna do the three wheel drive game anymore. A damn ARB is to much since i would like to swap to a 60 down the road. honestly...52 inch springs worth it? in the rear...should i go with shackle flip 6 inch spring and a small block? the NBS cut outs do not cut enough for me...i would prefer to be able to do like 5 inches like you can with the obs. Thanks for the replies
 

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5"? My cut-outs only had me cut 2" all the way around... I had to do some heating and re-forming to get mine to fit... I cut the front fenders all the way to the door. Yes with locking hubs you still have to worry about it... If the hub, joint, or shafts break your detroit probably will to.

I personally like the Ox joints. I would run them and plan to. Haven't lost a joint in my front end yet though. And my ARB should be here anyday :)
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #12
One more question, drive shafts - how much are they going to run me? How much are highangle drivline ones? Are they worth it? How exact do I need to be in length measurements - can I just get a really long slip to help compensate? Idealy I could have them at my house before I do the swap - so the length will all be guesswork with some math.
 

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I used my stock front shaft and it fit perfect... Until I twisted the tube in half. Then I made my own using sch. 80 pipe and the ends off my stock shaft...

As far as the rear I had to have it lengthened 1" and it was about $150
 

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Buck Nekkid
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Are you going to convert the 205 for twin stick? I am going to run a shifter from a stock car 3 spd tranny to make the shifter for mine.

Speedway
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Discussion Starter #15
As far as shafts Ill need a new front one for sure, with as much lift as im going to run the stock one wont work, plus it has no slip or anything. Who knows about the rear.

I dont know - how hard is it to convert a 205 to twin stick? Im also really starting to consider a 241 since it will bolt right up. I just cant seem to find one anywhere...
 

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Buck Nekkid
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Bad Dog on CK5 and Pirate has the article posted on his site. I have the link somewhere. Not too hard to do.
 

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Dark Eternal said:
Im also really starting to consider a 241 since it will bolt right up. I just cant seem to find one anywhere...

Wooohoooo!

Theres usually a couple on ebay at any given time and I see them all over in the pickup salvage yards here...
 

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GMFS slowest truck :read:
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Yeah, it wouldn't be too hard to find one in a salvage yard...they were in the trucks from 88-94?? maybe even later than that. Im pretty sure Andy has a 241 in his blazer, so that would mean they did go through 94 atleast. Thats a span of 6 years atleast...so id imagine you could pick one up pretty cheap...
 

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high angle drivelines are not cheap but with it. i paid about 520 for a front 1350 cv with 1410 at the yoke. inclding new flange and yoke for diff.
 
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