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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 3200 stall that i would like to install but i've never done anything transmission related. Any tips for doing it? Special tools needed? A how to with pictures or is that asking too much? I dont have access to a lift so i will be doing it on jack stands.

Also I would like beef up the tranny a little bit. So far the parts i have are hd-2 shift kit, vette servo and trans cooler. What else should i get? 1-2, 3-4 and fwd aluminum piston accumulators, hardened seperator plate, other servos? Looking for things that are easy to instal.

Is the shift kit hard to instal? I looked through the instructions and it seems kind of confusing.

Like i said i've never done anything transmission related so would i be able to do all of it on my own? A transmission shop quoted me just over $1000 if i provide the parts. But i'd rather do it myself and learn.
 

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We changed converters on our back a few times; not fun. I would suggest a 2ft extension, deep swivel 15mm socket to get the top bellhousing bolts. Also, when removing the neutral safety switch, remove it as an assembly instead of trying to unplug the weatherpack connectors. If you try and unplug the weatherpack connectors, more than likely, you'll brake the NSS because they're glued in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2 foot 1/2" extention or 3/8"? Also how much does a 4L60E weigh roughly?
 

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eh, i used 3/8"..doesn't have to be 2 ft...could be shorter..maybe 1.5' it all depends how high you're going to jack your truck up. i'm not sure the exact weight, but i lifted it in/out of the bed of the truck by myself...
 

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If you have never installed a shift kit in a valvebody then it can be confusing and time consuming. I would never trust a shop to install a shift kit especially that HD2. It's a really messy job thats probably the only part that bothers me. Sounds like you have a good plan lined up. I would do it yourself. You will learn a lot and know it was done right.

Pulled from some of my old posts below.

only thing else you need is:
seperator plate
fwd aluminum accumulator and NEW oring
1-2 aluminum accumulator pinless NEW oring
new trans filter ATP brand
regular plain md-3 ATF

Drill out all the holes to the smaller diameter drill bit
Don't install any spacers in the 1-2 accumlator
Hayden makes a good cooler. Get the largest one.
1 gold band on the servo (do the band test after)
Get a custom tune like a Blackbear tune

Seperator plate info:
http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140878&highlight=plate
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
eh, i used 3/8"..doesn't have to be 2 ft...could be shorter..maybe 1.5' it all depends how high you're going to jack your truck up. i'm not sure the exact weight, but i lifted it in/out of the bed of the truck by myself...
My jack goes up 22" :shrug: Good enough?


If you have never installed a shift kit in a valvebody then it can be confusing and time consuming. I would never trust a shop to install a shift kit especially that HD2. It's a really messy job thats probably the only part that bothers me. Sounds like you have a good plan lined up. I would do it yourself. You will learn a lot and know it was done right.

Pulled from some of my old posts below.

only thing else you need is:
seperator plate
fwd aluminum accumulator and NEW oring
1-2 aluminum accumulator pinless NEW oring
new trans filter ATP brand
regular plain md-3 ATF

Drill out all the holes to the smaller diameter drill bit
Don't install any spacers in the 1-2 accumlator
Hayden makes a good cooler. Get the largest one.
1 gold band on the servo (do the band test after)
Get a custom tune like a Blackbear tune

Seperator plate info:
http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140878&highlight=plate
Awesome thanks. And ya i wouldnt trust the shop to do the shift kit instal either. Way too many parts and i'm worried that they wont change out some things and I wouldnt even know.

Is there any how to's for the shift kit? Should i pull my tranny out to instal all these parts?
 

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No need to pull the trans completly out of the truck. Do the shift kit while the trans is still bolted up. All you need to do is remove the pan and drop the valve body. Then you can work on changing out the valve bodies internals on a bench. The 3-4 accumulator is up in the trans once you remove the valve body you can swap that out. The boost valve in the trans can also be swapped out once the valve body is out.

It's easiest to change the corvette servo when the trans is dropped while your doing the torque converter.

The torque conveter is easy once you get the trans pulled back and dropped. You have to remove the starter, unbolt driveshaft from diff, trans cooler lines, bell housing bolts and 3 fly wheel bolts that can be accessed through the starter hole in the bell housing. Make sure when it goes on you rotate and hear 3 clicks that the TC is seated. Fill the TC before install with as much fluid as you can, it will probably be less than a quart.

Everything is easy just time consuming if never done before. Post up while your doing it with any questions.
 

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i had a shop install my HD-2 kit and they did a fine job. :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The plan is to do it this weekend. Is it alright if i wait a few weeks to get the tune after doing the shift kit and stall? The cable is on its way but i imagine there will be a week or two before i get the new pcm.
 

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The plan is to do it this weekend. Is it alright if i wait a few weeks to get the tune after doing the shift kit and stall? The cable is on its way but i imagine there will be a week or two before i get the new pcm.
The shift kit shouldn't cause a problem, don't know about the stall.

Why don't you wait a week or two? It's safer IMO unless someone confirms you'll be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
:hmm: I always heard that you dont really need a tune after doing a stall so i think it would be alright.

And i have to log the truck with the mods before getting the new pcm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also should i have ordered the 3-4 and fwd aluminum accumulators pinless? or with pins? I'm not sure of the difference.

The 1-2 that i ordered is pinless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Before i start i have another question. When rolling up to a stop light or sign my truck downshifts really slow. It goes into 3rd around at around 15 mph then 2nd at around 10mph and finaly first at around 5mph. Is that normal? I started to notice it since my long tube instal and before i never really felt the downshifting.
 
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