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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have experience with storing your truck for a long period of time? We are headed over seas to our next duty station, and we are trading in the wife's Envoy for a mini van (don't fucking laugh). Got another kid coming soon to make 4, and we are only allowed 1 vehichle. Even if we were allowed 2 I wouldn't take my truck up there. Any help appreciated. Right now we are thinking about those self storage places for my wife's 3000GT and my truck. Any better options for long term (3-4) years storage?
 

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No family or friends with barn/ shop space you can rent? That'd be much cheaper if possible but the self store places will be pricey for two vehicles, especially if its any where near a college town...

I'd also look into some sort of critter/ rodent protection. Last summer I had a problem even just letting my truck sit for two weeks at a time in the drive, found some mouse shit on the floor and pretty well turned my truck inside out cleaning and never found a nest but I haven't seen any droppings since. I plan to keep some poison in there this summer.
 

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Heres some info that was posted on my mustang forum, it says for winter, but still has some good tips that will help you:

For storing your Mustang for winter, I offer the following recommendations. These recommendation are from my website Terminator FAQs.


· Fill the tank with gas and add a gas stabilizer to keep your gas from becoming stale. I recommend Sta-Bil, mixed to the correct ratio.

· Change the oil and filter.

· Thorough wash the exterior of the car, wheels, and tires. If possible, remove each wheel and thoroughly clean them. Especially the back side
where dirt and road debris accumulates. Polish the wheels and reinstall. Polish/wax the exterior. Clean/detail the engine bay. When the car
is sufficiently cleaned and the paint treated to a good coating of carnauba wax or polish, consider covering it with a quality car cover from
California Car Cover or Big Sky Car Covers, or another high quality cover.

· To prevent tire flat spots, use jack stands to raise the car off the floor. Set the stands under the control arms so that the weight of the car is
still on the suspension, and just high enough to keep the weight off of the tires. Putting the jack stands under the spring perches is
recommended by many. If jack stands are not available you can use wood blocks. Just remember that the suspension likes to be loaded. It's
heavy. Many recommend that you just inflate the tires to the max and put carpet squares or plywood under each tire.

· Check the tire air pressure and be sure all four tires are the same correct pressure. Note that regular air can leak during storage due to faulty
valve stems, wheel irregularities, etc. Costco warehouse stores use nitrogen to fill tires. It is the only place that I know of that has nitrogen
due to the expense of the equipment I guess. However, nitrogen is preferred for a number of reasons. The most important IMO is that it is
heavier than air and is less likely to leak out (larger molecules). So if you have a Costco in your area consider replacing the air with nitrogen.
You'll have more consistent air pressures without leaking.

· Disconnect the negative battery cable. When you're ready to take it out of storage hook it back up. Some prefer to use a battery tender.

· Place a few moisture absorber packs (desiccants) in the interior to absorb any moisture. Large packs are usually available at most do-it-yourself
building supply or hardware chains. A couple of bags on the front and rear floors, as well as a few more in the trunk, and you'll have dampness
protection for the entire winter season. As an alternative, kitty litter can be used in small containers.

· Get some Arm & Hammer baking soda to put in the cabin. Open the tabs and place the entire box on the floor. I'll put one box on the rear
floor and one on the front floor. This will prevent any musty smell.

· Cover the car with a high quality car cover. The cover will keep the paint surface clean and protect it from scratches if you (or others) will be
working around the car.

· Inflatable bubble covers are also available. You basically drive your car into the bubble and inflate it. Users state that air is continually kept
flowing through the bubble and this totally keeps out all moisture. So rusting of the brake rotors, for example, is not an issue. I don't know
anything more about this method so you should research it before using it.

· Change your oil again when the car comes out of storage.

· When starting the car after long term storage, hold the accelerator to the floor (which will turn off the fuel injectors) while starting. Turn the
engine over for about 10 seconds to get the oil flowing to the top of the engine. Then start the car normally. It is also recommended to pull
all the plugs first so the starter isn't working against compression. It is my understanding, though, that if you have a BAP it can render this
trick useless, reportedly due to the upgraded wiring coming directly from the battery.

Need to protect your Mustang from mice?

•The best way to keep mice out of your car is to keep them out of the storage area, usually a garage. Keep doors and windows sealed
as tightly as possible.

•Keep food out of your building and cars. If there’s nothing for mice to eat, they won’t usually hang around. Pay close attention not to
leave scraps or crumbs inside the vehicle. Vacuum the carpets, seats, under-seat area, console and glove box. Use probe tools
to get at the petrified French fries on the side of the seat. LOL! Then shampoo the carpets so they are nice & clean and smell
fresh.

•Traps and poisons are a line of defense against mice. They come in a variety of models and prices. They work, but remember
that bait traps are designed to attract mice and then kill them. Keeping the mice away in the first place works best. Some people prefer
to put triangle shaped tube traps, that have a sticky base, near the garage door on both sides where the floor meets the wall. Rodents
normally walk along these edges so places traps there works.

•In most cases, mice enter a car by scampering up the tires. If the vehicle is stored without tires, it is a bit harder for them to get inside.
Tireless storage will also keep your tires from “flat spotting.” However, the 2003/2004 Cobra is heavy and the suspension likes to be loaded.
So jacking up the car is not one of my recommendations in this case, although some people do it.

•Rodents can nest several places in a vehicle: the engine compartment, the interior and the trunk. They’re drawn to the warmth of an
engine or heater motor. They will eat electrical wires and even spark plug wires.

•Mice can also get into cars through holes around cables, pedal shafts, steering columns and so on. If you can seal all these openings,
mice can’t enter. Leave the sun visors in the down position. If you want to keep the windows slightly open for better airflow, cover the
opening with screening.

•Usually, these creatures can’t get into a trunk if you seal interior openings; they usually enter the trunk from the rear seat.
Some cars have drain holes in the spare tire well. These holes should be taped.

•Some people put mothballs on the floor around the car. The line of mothballs should have no gaps at any point. Other car owners
place mothballs or scented soap in a cake pan inside the car to keep mice away. Mice don’t like the mothball smell, but neither will you. If
you go the mothball route, you can help to eliminate the smell by putting a scented candle under the seat on a hot day.

•Zipper bags seal the whole car. There are two types. The first is a big plastic sack with a zipper. A second type is a plastic bubble
supported by a curtain of air. The air pump draws little current and promotes better airflow. Both bags work well if you use them properly.
The trouble is the hassle. You must be very careful not to trap moisture in the bag. While the air-curtain type won’t trap moisture, it does
require electricity.

•One final step in fighting rodent infestation is to make spot checks every couple of weeks. If you see droppings or notice that unpleasant
mouse smell, the steps you have taken so far aren’t working. In this case, the first thing to do is to get rid of the mice. Then you’ll need to
protect the vehicle from being re-infested. If you inspect the car on a regular basis, you should be able to remedy the problem before
damage is done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No family or friends with barn/ shop space you can rent? That'd be much cheaper if possible but the self store places will be pricey for two vehicles, especially if its any where near a college town...

I'd also look into some sort of critter/ rodent protection. Last summer I had a problem even just letting my truck sit for two weeks at a time in the drive, found some mouse shit on the floor and pretty well turned my truck inside out cleaning and never found a nest but I haven't seen any droppings since. I plan to keep some poison in there this summer.
No friends or family near by. My wife's family is in Eastern Oregon. Almost 2000 miles away, if not a bit more. Don't trust her brother or her sister at all. Both of them are grown with kids, but there is literally nothing to do there, and my truck sticks out like a sore thumb. It's all farming, small town where they still burn their own trash. Mom has 80 acres, and we were thinking about visiting and dropping the vehicles off. Building a little shed to protect it from the 6'+ of snow they easilly get. I trust the mom, but I just know the brother or sister will trick her out of my keys, or search for it till they did. We are talking about adults to, 35 and 31 years old! Damn shame...

Just stressing about it honestly.
 
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