[shsportsfan12]

As the title states, where are you guys buying your end links from? I ran my RCD without the sway bar for a long time, but with the new lift I have way too much sway for my liking and need to throw the sway bar back in.

Any company you'd recommend?
Stores to buy from?

I was going to pick up these:
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/SwayBarLinks.htm

Top of the page - Daystars - Part number KU08018

Thanks

 

[SamCarroll]

cognito has some for like $60.00

 

[shsportsfan12]

cognito has some for like $60.00

$22 vs $60 + unemployed :hmm:


:crazy:

I'm thinking the massive amount of sway and the way I drive is what is throwing off my alignment every fucking week. I'm hoping this will help out some.

I'm going to grind off all the paint where the bolt is too as that might be a cause to having the bolt slip and fucking up my alignment.

 

[knuckledstr]

with as tall as yours is, i wouldnt go with an OEM type sway bar endlink.

 

[shsportsfan12]

with as tall as yours is, i wouldnt go with an OEM type sway bar endlink.

That's the way it's setup to be. I was thinking bout doing a heim setup but realized the money isn't there:crazy: This will essentially be a temporary thing just to hold it all together for now till I can spend some more time/money on it down the road.

 

[brianZ71]

buy some tubing, cut it to length, and tap the ends. buy 4 bolts and use the OEM bushings, or buy some new ones. you don't need heims or anything.

also, the sway shouldn't be throwing off your alignment. just make sure your UCA bolts are good and tight. maybe even loc tite them.

 

[209dmax]

i'm using some shock mounts, tubing tapped on both ends and heims, works quite well...

 

[Dezert1500]

Tack weld your alignment cams.

 

[shsportsfan12]

buy some tubing, cut it to length, and tap the ends. buy 4 bolts and use the OEM bushings, or buy some new ones. you don't need heims or anything.

also, the sway shouldn't be throwing off your alignment. just make sure your UCA bolts are good and tight. maybe even loc tite them.

I could easily make some...but going to the steel yard, buying the tubing, driving back, tapping it, going to the hardware store, buying bolts, buying the bushings, putting it all together would greatly surpass the amount of money and time it would take to buy some already made.

As for the alignment, it only seems to get thrown off when making sharp turns. I do drive like Mario Andretti in town so I'm thinking it has to do something with the added sway of the truck.

i'm using some shock mounts, tubing tapped on both ends and heims, works quite well...

Tis probably what I'll do in the future. Right now I'm looking for a cheaper alternative.

 

[Big E]

$22 vs $60 + unemployed :hmm:


:crazy:

I'm thinking the massive amount of sway and the way I drive is what is throwing off my alignment every fucking week. I'm hoping this will help out some.

I'm going to grind off all the paint where the bolt is too as that might be a cause to having the bolt slip and fucking up my alignment.

The upper control arms are supposed to be torqued at 140 ft lbs. If the alignment guy is half assing the bolts it will allow your alignment to move. I dont know what year your truck is but the 99-06 half tons are the same. Also may want to check the torque on your lift kit!

Upper control arm


Upper control arm—2005–06 models and 2007 Classic


To install:

Install or connect the following:

Upper control arm

Upper control arm bolts

Upper control arm nuts and the adjustment cams. Tighten the nuts to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)

Upper control arm to the steering knuckle

Halfshaft

New nut to the upper ball joint stud. Tighten the nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

Retaining bolts for the brake hose and wheel speed sensor brackets. Tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

RTD link rod to the sensor, if equipped

Tire and wheel assembly

Remove the safety stands.

Lower the vehicle. Verify the wheel align

 

[shsportsfan12]

The upper control arms are supposed to be torqued at 140 ft lbs. If the alignment guy is half assing the bolts it will allow your alignment to move. I dont know what year your truck is but the 99-06 half tons are the same. Also may want to check the torque on your lift kit!

Upper control arm


Upper control arm—2005–06 models and 2007 Classic


To install:

Install or connect the following:

Upper control arm

Upper control arm bolts

Upper control arm nuts and the adjustment cams. Tighten the nuts to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)

Upper control arm to the steering knuckle

Halfshaft

New nut to the upper ball joint stud. Tighten the nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

Retaining bolts for the brake hose and wheel speed sensor brackets. Tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

RTD link rod to the sensor, if equipped

Tire and wheel assembly

Remove the safety stands.

Lower the vehicle. Verify the wheel align

Thank you for that info. It's very possible they aren't tightening them all the way. Is it possible that the buildup of paint/powdercoat could be causing it to slip as well? I figure if it's tightened enough, nothing is really going to make it slip, but I've had 2 people tell me to grind off all the paint there.

 

[JoeR]

i got a partial set of cognito 10-12 endlinks. well i actually just have the link part, none of the hardware and bushings. so youd need to come up with the clevis mount for the bottom and then the bushings and bolts

those ones listed in the link you posted are really really short, like 4.5"s length is the longest listed. how long do you need them?

 

[shsportsfan12]

i got a partial set of cognito 10-12 endlinks. well i actually just have the link part, none of the hardware and bushings. so youd need to come up with the clevis mount for the bottom and then the bushings and bolts

those ones listed in the link you posted are really really short, like 4.5"s length is the longest listed. how long do you need them?

I can essentially make all of that minus the bushings.

The mounting point for the sway bar on the lift is 7" above the mounting spot on the LCA for the endlink. At 4.5" I just barely clear the heim steering. First thought that came to mind was with any downward travel, the sway bar would hit the heim steering...but then again, the heim steering would move downward as well. Same as upward travel. Am I correct in this thinking?

 

[JoeR]

I can essentially make all of that minus the bushings.

The mounting point for the sway bar on the lift is 7" above the mounting spot on the LCA for the endlink. At 4.5" I just barely clear the heim steering. First thought that came to mind was with any downward travel, the sway bar would hit the heim steering...but then again, the heim steering would move downward as well. Same as upward travel. Am I correct in this thinking?

thats how the swaybar mounts on all the cognito kits, above the tie rods. mine is actually under it quite a bit tho since its a 2wd kit

heres how mine is, dont mind the dirtyness and non painted mount. i finally welded on the mounts and havent painted them up yet

 

[shsportsfan12]

thats how the swaybar mounts on all the cognito kits, above the tie rods. mine is actually under it quite a bit tho since its a 2wd kit

heres how mine is, dont mind the dirtyness and non painted mount. i finally welded on the mounts and havent painted them up yet

That looks :boobs:

I'm just worried about the space. I'll have to take some more measurements of course and incorporate the diameter of the sway bar. I THINK the 4.5" ones will fit.

Is my thought process correct? If it clears, even by the tightest amount, I shouldn't run into issues with it colliding into the heim steering on any direction of travel?

 

[vwp6269]

That looks :boobs:

I'm just worried about the space. I'll have to take some more measurements of course and incorporate the diameter of the sway bar. I THINK the 4.5" ones will fit.

Is my thought process correct? If it clears, even by the tightest amount, I shouldn't run into issues with it colliding into the heim steering on any direction of travel?

I think if you clear on flat level ground all the way around then traveling the suspension will result in the same result unless something is bending or giving.

 

[shsportsfan12]

I think if you clear on flat level ground all the way around then traveling the suspension will result in the same result unless something is bending or giving.

That's what I thought. I figure if I need to, I can put the endlinks if I do go offroad. This is mainly for the on road it's seeing right now until its done.

 

[badassgmc]

That's what I thought. I figure if I need to, I can put the endlinks if I do go offroad. This is mainly for the on road it's seeing right now until its done.

go to bed:wave:

 

[JoeR]

also you have to think about the knuckle when the tires are turned. thats the reason mine is mounted lower than the tie rod because with it above, its pretty much touching the spindle, no room at all to turn

 

[shsportsfan12]

go to bed:wave:

:kiss:

also you have to think about the knuckle when the tires are turned. thats the reason mine is mounted lower than the tie rod because with it above, its pretty much touching the spindle, no room at all to turn

It shouldn't be an issue. I just put 1.5" spacers up front and now everything fits so much nicer. It seems to handle a little better too