sway bars and fender trimming

Nice truck, disconnecting teh sway bar on our IFS wont do shit, at least noticably, it cant flex much as it is. As far as trimming yes, I trimmed there and many others have as well, just pull teh plastic back, trim the metal then zip tie teh plastic back to the metal and it will be almost unnoticable.

Damn nice truck. Love the look of those tsl's on stock rims. I run the same tire but on a wider rim. Looks real good though.

I also trimmed the rear of my front fenders on my last truck. Just pull that bottom tab out and pull the plastic back, trim the metal and zip tie the plastic liner back up and it wont even be noticeable.

Unless you want to relocate the resivoir you can always add a bodylift, cheap and effective.

Im doing this myself as we speak. Acually I got just about all the driverside done and it started raining, so I came in and gave up for today. I will try to finish it up tomorrow and hopefully get to the passenger side also.

:hack:

I had to trim some off of my last truck after I lifted it. Here is a link to the photobucket page..if you can make any sense out of the pics.
http://img41.photobucket.com/albums/v126/iceman357/

cool thanks guys it doesn't seem quite so intimidating cutting up a $60000(I live in canada) truck now! I think I am going to relocate the fluid resevoir so I can get a new bumper built I was thinking about the body lift but I'm saving for a dana 60 swap. Dark eternal I like all the tech you have on this subject why are you gonna use leafs up front? I thinking of using a 3 link with custom radius arms and a panhard bar but for what all the fab is worth I'm leaning toward a triangulated 4 link :bowtie:

Im using leafs because of money, get get good coiliovers, and properly build a 4 link would cost several thousand more. Its going to be the next step on my truck, but not right now. There are ALOT of calculations involved in properly designing a 4 link. If you have any questions about it feel free to ask.

slayermike said:

cool thanks guys it doesn't seem quite so intimidating cutting up a $60000(I live in canada) truck now! I think I am going to relocate the fluid resevoir so I can get a new bumper built I was thinking about the body lift but I'm saving for a dana 60 swap. Dark eternal I like all the tech you have on this subject why are you gonna use leafs up front? I thinking of using a 3 link with custom radius arms and a panhard bar but for what all the fab is worth I'm leaning toward a triangulated 4 link :bowtie:

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If your planning a trigangulated 4 link do you also plan on full hydro steering? If you run regular steering your going to have a ton of bump steer. Your axle will be moving straight up and down. If you have a 3 link and panhard bar with the panhard running parallel with the draglink you will have little to no bumpsteer since the axle travels in an arc around the draglink/panhard bar.

not hydro yet I'm budgeting for cross over sterring that would be ok for a bit on a 4 link right?

like he said, it will give you really bad bump steer.

Jason, what is bump steer, ive always wondered after polaris' atv promised to have none?

their is a buch of guys in town running 4 link fronts and cross over I guess they mostly see off road use. custom radius arms it is then. hydro would be sweet but holy bling! a whole bunch of guys are running hydro steer in town now fucking sweet

Ive heard hydro could be very bad if you break a line

Andy said:

Ive heard hydro could be very bad if you break a line

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Really? Ya think? Brakes can be bad if you break a line also. :crazy:

Looks like he got in contact with Station...

I personally would not run full hydro on the street, too much risk. There is alot more pressure and flow in a hydro steering system than there is in a brake system. Plus you still have an e-brake on brakes, you don't have e-steering... My hydro assist that I designed and built works just as well as full hydro, even uses the same cylinders and pressures.

Bump steer is caused when you have a drag link connected from your steering arm on your axle, say on the pass. side knuckle and the other end goes to the pitman arm on the steering box. If your drag link is at an angle, running down hill from the pitman to the steering arm, and your axle moves straight up and down, the pitman arm and steering arm will essentially get closer together, but since the draglink is stays the same length is pushes which ever arm is easiest. Most of the time it will push the pitman causing the steering wheel to turn in your hands whenever you hit a bump.

ya those are the new stations cylinders
I would not run full hdro on the street either but a ram assit would be cool hey? still pretty expesive though
I have seen some hysteer setups with very minimal drag link angles but these people always end up going hydro eventualy natural progresion I supose

Yeah I run ram assist on the street with no problems.