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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's part of a thread my brother posted at Meguiar's Online today.
And you thought you had some bad swirl marks!! And those aren't even swirls they're considered to be cobwebs!

Recently I detailed black 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe with a basecoat/Clear coat finish.

For this black 1947 Plymouth Coupe, I used,

* Meguiar's Quik Clay System - It had white over spray paint all over the finish
* ColorX
* NXT Tech Wax x 2

The results speak for themselves. The owner just about jumped out of his skin when he saw it for the first time after detailing it. Just by coincidence, he brought it by tonight and it still looks great.



White paint overspray all over the entire car


By the way Kevin, all of this work was completed by hand. If you own a PC you will be able to get even better results.

But first, here's a tip...

Before working on your car's finsih by hand or with a PC, first wash your car and then inspect your vehicle's finish with the clean palm of your hand. Feel for bonded contaminants, these will feel like little bumps on your surface. If you feel these little bumpy things, then you need to clay.

How to clay your car

Claying your car is pretty straightforward and simple.

Probably the most important things you can do to insure success is,

a) Start with a clean car. Wash the car thoroughly before claying the finish.
b) Take your time and focus on the task at hand.

I always say,

”Paint is a thin, delicate coating that is easily scratched and easily dulled”

This is especially true for clear coat finishes.

Here are the basics,

1. Knead you clay bar into a flat pancake shaped wafer.

2. Lubricate your clay by misting some quick detailer onto the surface of the clay.

3. Lubricate your finish by misting some quick detailer onto the surface of your finish.

4. Hold the clay bar in the palm of your hand and push it across the surface in a back and forth motion as though your were rubbing a bar of soap across your skin.

5. Take note of the way your finish feels as you begin to clay, and how the feel changes as you continue to clay the surface.

You should be able to distinguish by the feel of how the clay bar is gliding over the surface when the surface is clean. To double check, dry off the area with a towel, or microfiber cloth and feel the clayed area with your clean dry hand. Compare how that area feels with an area immediately next to the clayed area.

The clayed area should feel smooth as glass, the unclayed area will feel grainy, bumpy, rough or just plain covered with tiny little bumps. These tiny little bumps are all kinds of contaminants that have bonded to your finish.

After you get a feel for how long to push the clay bar over a given area in order to remove all the bonded contaminants, mist some more quick detailer to another section and begin claying that section. Move around, section by section until each panel has been clayed. Most of the bonded contaminants will be found on the horizontal surfaces. If you want to be thorough, then go a head and clay the vertical panels.

In the pictures above of the 1947 Plymouth Coupe, I needed to clay the entire car, including the stainless steel trim, grill and glass because of the white paint overspray.

As long as your using a good quality clay bar, you shouldn’t have any problems. Also, as your claying the car, stop and inspect the surface of the clay and if common sense tell you it’s becoming tainted with contaminants, knead the clay, in a way that you expose a new, clean surface. Then repeat the initial steps by misting the surface of the clay with a quick detailer, and the surface of your finish with some quick detailer and begin claying again.

Hope this helps…


Mike Phillips
Technical Specialist
1-800-854-8073 ext. 189
[email protected]

6,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
E.M.D. said:
Your brother is Mike? I am on Meguires Online forum, Elite M.D. is my SN.
No I wish! My brother posted this thread. This was just part of it. I was just showing how bad the swirls on that car was and how it can be fixed.
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