[Megalos]

I've made a thread about this before but since the situation has changed, here's a new thread. I have a JVC GD-820 head unit, kicker ks 6.5 components, kicker ks 4x6 coaxes, kicker zx750.1 amp and a 12" L5 solo-baric. My speakers are run off of my headunit and were initially installed by some of my "helpful" friends.

I started having a problem with the speakers cutting out and only my subwoofer running. I took it to Fry's, where I had everything else installed and had them look at it. I thought there was probably a short in one of my door speakers and they told me it would be cheaper to have them reinstall the speakers than to take out all the components and test them. I did that, they said there was a short in my driver's side door and they worked fine for 1 day (i paid for them to be reinstalled, and the same wires I used to install them the first time were re-used)

Now, when I have my doors closed, I cannot get sound to come through my speakers. When I have my drivers side door open all the way, I get sound for exactly 20 seconds, and then it shuts off. WTF?

side note rant about fry's- when I first had this equipment installed, the salesman told me they could build a custom box for my sub so I paid for everything to be installed and took it in. After my truck had sat in the install bay for a day, they called and said they were not able to build me a box and that they had a temporary box available. They told me I could use the temporary box until they could build me a new one. Reluctantly, i gave them the ok because I really wanted to hear my new equipment. A month passed and still no word from Fry's. I went in to check on the situation and no actions had even been taken to fix the saw that was broken. They refunded the box and I was forced to find someone else to build my box.

ADD version- Fry's car audio department is shady and does poor installs, and I can't figure out what could be wrong with my sound system.

 

[glassman]

They probably "reinstalled" it to give warranty, which apparently they suck at. anyhow, sounds like a short for sure, maybe the door plunger, although they're plastic nowadays, it could be smashing the wire though against the metal, it's late and i can't think straight. Are all speaks cutting out or just the drivers side?
side note, the 20 secomds sounds wierd, could you get sound for twenty seconds, then close the door and reopen and then get sound for another twenty seconds?

 

[Forklift]

did you run new wire into the door or use the stock stuff?

 

[Megalos]

When my friends and I first did it, we cut the connectors off the stock wires, spliced them, and used new wire to run them into the input on my crossovers. That may not have been necessary, but I wanted it setup so I could easily add an amp later on. When it cuts out, all the speakers cut out and when it's working, all the speakers work. I do have the time to rewire it, and I've wired them before, but since fry's has installed everything now, I'm going to give them another shot to fix it. IF they don't, I'll rewire them myself. If I took out the crossovers, do y'all think it would help?

 

[thunder550]

Maybe you have a short somewhere and the 20 seconds is how long it takes the internal amp on the HU to go into protect and shut off?

 

[Megalos]

took it to fry's, they tested everything, and they concluded there's a problem with my speaker. They uninstalled it and all the other stuff works. They told me to go to circuit city, buy new speakers there, switch mine out with a new one and return them. :nono:

Since I have to buy new speakers, I might as well upgrade. :crazy: I'm looking at getting some SS series' and running them off a stereo amp and just keep my ks series' in back. The RMS on the speakers is 100w @ 4 ohms. They're components so what size amp should I run?